car oil seals for car and motorcycle

Many seals have a metal outer casing for added strength and ease of fitting. Because the seal is in constant contact with a moving part, dynamic seals eventually wear and begin to leak, and both dynamic and static seals deteriorate with age.car oil seals for car and motorcycle.
Most seals are inexpensive and easy to replace, but many are in places where you must do a lot of dismantling to get at them.
For example, gearbox oil seals (apart from the extension-housing seal on rear-wheel-drive cars) can be replaced only with the gearbox removed – a task best left to a garage.
However, the seals on the rear axle and final drive should all be possible to replace fairly easily, although special tools may be necessary.Replacing transmission oil seals
After many miles and several new seals, the moving part against which the dynamic seal fits may wear.
Slight wear can sometimes be taken up by fitting a shim between the seal and its housing, to change the point of contact. But if a shaft becomes seriously grooved it must be replaced or repaired at a garage or engineering machine shop.
This is not a common occurrence, but any point at which a shaft rotates in a seal is a possible leak source. Check such points regularly.
When fitting and handling any oil seal, keep it and its sealing point absolutely free from dirt and grit. Make sure you fit the seal the right way round. The lip (or lips) always faces the oil it is sealing.car oil seals for car and motorcycle.
The design of the seals varies greatly from car to car. There may be up to three on both sides of the inner race of the bearing, and a ring outside it. Always replace all the oil seals when you remove a half shaft as they often leak after being disturbed (See Checking the half shafts).
Prise them off carefully with a screwdriver, taking care not to damage their seatings, and clean the seatings.
Smear the new seals with multipurpose grease and push them in carefully with a piece of tube of a suitable size.
Use a degreaser or paraffin to clean the area around the differential nose, thoroughly wiping up the mixture of oil and dirt caused by the oil leak. Dry the area with absorbent rags.
Clean the inner rim of the flange where it touches the seal, and lubricate it with hypoid gear oil.
Tap in the new seal, using a socket of the appropriate size and a soft-faced hammer. Be sure to fit it the right way round, with the lip facing inwards. A special tool of the right diameter is available for some cars, for pushing in the seal, but it is usually not necessary.
Grease the lips of the seal with a multi-purpose grease.
Oil the splines and refit the flange, holding it square to the pinion so as not to damage the seal. Give the nut the same number of turns that it took to remove it, and line up the marks you made earlier. If the nut is self-locking, fit a new nut.
Check with a torque wrench that the setting for the nut corresponds with that given in the workshop manual for the car, to provide the correct load on the pinion. Adjust the setting if necessary. Fit a new split pin on the nut, if required.car oil seals for car and motorcycle.
Reconnect the prop-shaft flange to the pinion flange. Top up the differential housing with fresh hypoid gear oil to the correct level.