Gaco machinery oil seals.Now that's a WORN Sprocket "Back in 1981, 3 of us set off from England for a 2-week touring ride around mainland Europe. I was on my T150V Triumph Trident and the other 2 had Z1000 Kawasakis. Before departing, giving more thought to the fact that we would only be away from home for 2 weeks rather than the fact that we would be putting in some serious mileage, one of the guys decided that with a fairly worn rear drive chain, he would remove a link to provide more adjustment should he need it. Gaco machinery oil seals.5 days and 2500 miles later in Athens (yes, Greece!) the photograph shows the result. As you can imagine, the last 300 miles or so, were only achieved by tightening the chain to provide friction drive with what was left of the sprocket. Indeed, such was the strain on the chain, that the rollers had flats worn on them by the time we arrived at our final holiday destination. ".
The Bolted Clip type fits in grooves on the counter shaft and then twists and bolts to the sprocket with two bolts. It is easiest to remove these bolts or nuts when the chain is still on so that it will hold the sprocket. If the sprocket still turns, you may have to get someone to hold the rear brake on while you unscrew things.Gaco machinery oil seals.
Chain Breaker ToolNow we take the chain off. Spin the tire around untill you find the master link and gently pop the clip off. Even if you are replacing the chain, save the clip and put it in the tool kit you carry on the bike. You never know, but you might need it some day. If the chain is endless you will need to break it. The best way is to use a chain breaking tool. Another way, is to put a grinding wheel in a drill and grind the ends of the chain link rivets flush with the link side plate.Gaco machinery oil seals. Then knock the rivet out with a punch. Gross, but effective and cheap.
After the chain is off, remove the rear wheel. The rear sprocket is usually bolted to the rear hub. Sometimes it is bolted to a sprocket carrier, which slides into rubber cushions in the hub. Don't lose the nuts or bolts or lock washers.Gaco machinery oil seals. Often, they are of a special length or design. Now is a good time to look at any chain guides on the swing arm or chain slack adjuster rollers for wear and replace them if necessary.
Chain Holder Bolt everything back together. If the sprocket is of a dished type, make sure it goes on the right way. Put it on backwards and things wear really quick. Please don't ask how I know this... trust me, it can be done and it does wear quickly ! Don't forget to bend over the locking tabs if there are any. Sometimes it helps to have a special tool to hold the chain ends together. 530 and 630 chain master links can be a very tight fit so it helps to have a chain press to press the side plate on with. You can also use a set of vice grips of the right size. Gaco machinery oil seals.If you are using a clip type master link make sure the closed end is pointed in the direction the chain travels. Rivet links need a chain riveter. At least that's the easiest way. You can also ping the rivet end over with a punch and hammer if you back up the master link with a big sledge hammer or piece of heavy metal.
That's about it. Lube it up and you are done !
Always replace the chain and front and rear sprockets as a set. Never mix used parts with new parts. Yes, I know there may be rare exceptions to this rule (like big, well maintained, street bikes) but they are few and far between. It seems to be Ok to replace used with used because everything is well used !Gaco machinery oil seals.
Friday, April 24, 2015
FKM agricultural machinery oil seals
FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.According to Auto Zone, small blocks through 1985 use a two-piece rear main seal. The seal can be difficult to remove, it could tearin that when you grab it. The seal needs to be replaced if it leaks -- the leak only gets worse, which could cause the engine to run too low on oil. Once the engine runs too low on oil, the oil pressure drops and oil does not get up into the heads. Without enough oil you will damage the engine -- sometimes, beyond reasonable repair.
Jack up the vehicle, using the floor jack. Support the vehicle with jack stands. Slide the drain pan under the oil pan drain bolt. Remove the drain bolt and allow the oil to drain. FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.Dispose of the oil in an appropriate manner. Reinstall the oil drain bolt, so you don't lose it.Install the rear main bearing cap bolts. Tap the crankshaft with the lead hammer forward, then rearward, to line up the thrust surfaces. Tighten the bearing bolts to the proper specification for your year small block.
Slide the oil pan into place, then reinstall the oil pump. It is recommended that you replace the oil pan gasket, especially if it is a cork gasket. Lift the pan up and install the oil pan bolts. Tighten the bolts firmly. Lower the engine back onto the mounts and reinstall the mount through bolts and tighten them firmly.
Remove the rear main bearing cap, using the appropriate socket.FKM agricultural machinery oil seals. Pry the oil seal from the bearing cap, taking care not to scratch the cap. Drive the top half of the seal from the rear main bearing, using the brass pin punch and small hammer. Once it is out far enough, grab the end of it with the pliers and pull it the rest of the way out. Make sure you have at least an inch to grab onto, else the ends of the seal will just fray, and you won't be able to pull it out. The seal fits tightly in the bearing, so you will need to use some muscle to pull it out.
Clean the rear main bearing cap and crankshaft with a non-abrasive cleaner and shop rags.
Make an oil seal installation tool from the 0.004-inch shim stock by shaping the end to ?-inch long by 1/64-inch wide. Coat the new seal with engine oil, but do not coat the ends of the seal.
Place the block of wood on the floor jack. Jack it up enough to support the engine. Remove the engine mount through bolts, using the appropriate sockets. Remove the oil pan bolts, using the appropriate socket. FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.Jack the engine up high enough so that you can lower the oil pan enough to remove the oil pump.
Remove the two bolts holding the oil pump onto the block. Put the oil pump in the pan. Remove the pan. You may have to jack up the engine a bit higher to fit the oil pan out between the frame and transmission.
Position the installation tool between the crankshaft and the seal seat in the cylinder case. Position the new seal between the crankshaft and the top of the tool, ensuring that the seal bead contacts the tip of the tool. Ensure that the seal's lip is toward the front of the engine.
Work the seal into the bearing, using the installation tool as a shoe horn to protect the seal's bead from the sharp edge of the seal seat surface in the cylinder case. Roll the seal around the crankshaft. Once the ends of the seal are flush with the engine block, remove the installation tool.
Install the lower half of the seal into the lower half of the rear main bearing cap, using the same procedure and installation tool as the previous step. Apply RTV silicone to the cap-to-case mating surfaces. Install the rear main bearing cap, keeping the sealant off the seal's mating line.FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.
Lower the vehicle off the jack stands, using the floor jack. Fill then engine with the appropriate amount of oil for your year vehicle. If you cannot find the appropriate amount, put four and one-half quarts in, start the engine and allow it to run for two minutes. Shut the engine off. Check the oil and top off the oil as needed. Start the vehicle and check for oil leaks at the rear main seal and oil pan mating surface
When you get new sprockets, you might want to consider changing gear ratios. This can really help the bike be more enjoyable to ride. Bottom line... if your bike has trouble climbing that hill, (not enough power) go one tooth smaller on the front (counter shaft) sprocket. FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.If it revs too high in top gear... just won't go fast (MPH) enough... go up one tooth on the front sprocket.
In the old days, you would take the chain off, clean it off real good in solvent with a tooth brush and put it in a pan of grease. Put the pan on the stove and melt the grease so it will penetrate the bearing area, in the links of the chain. That's still a great way to really lube that chain, however, no one today will ever take the time to do it. 90 weight gear oil works good too, but it does tend to fly off. Fortunately, we have lots of different chain sprays on the market that work great. They go on as a liquid and penetrate the chain rollers, then dry, leaving the grease behind. The drill is to spray it on good and heavy, while spinning the wheel. Try to spray the edges of the chain. Now let it set for 10-15 minutes and you are good to go. O-Ring Chain
Now, I know what you are going to say. "I've got an O-Ring Chain. The ad said I don't have to lube it !" Well, How do you define "Lube" ? The picture to the left is of an O-Ring chain I took off a customers bike. For example, if you want to lower your engine RPM at highway cruising speeds you can either get a bigger (more teeth) front sprocket or a smaller (fewer teeth) rear sprocket. If you need more power up through the gears on a dirt bike, you can get a bigger rear sprocket or a smaller front sprocket. Generally speaking, one tooth change on the front sprocket equals about a 3 1/2 tooth change on the rear sprocket. FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.It's best to keep the front sprocket as big as possible to lessen chain velocity as the chain rounds the sprocket, however it is cheaper to change the front sprocket as opposed to changing the rear.Believe it or not, this is not the worst I've seen. One customer brought in an O-Ringed chained bike(XR200R Honda) and I could barely push it into the shop. You can't tell me that's not soaking up some horse power. The moral of the tale is this. Lube your chain even if it's an O-Ring chain. Just to complicate things, make sure the lube is OK for O-Ring chains.
Chain Alignment ToolA chain must be adjusted from time to time. Both front and rear sprockets must be in line with one another, otherwise the chain will wear more on one side than the other. To help in this there are marks on each side of the swingarm. Simply match the marks. Yes, it is true the marks may be off, but I don't think they are as far off as some people say. If it bothers you that much, look down the chain and see if it going to one side or the other. Adjust it so it tracks straight. There are tools, like the one to the right, that you can use to help. When adjusted right the chain will have 1/2" or so, up and down play in the center between the sprockets. This is for bikes with normal shock travel. If you have a long shock travel bike (most dirt bikes) this play may be as much as 1 1/2". Check you shop manual for the correct amount.FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.
Testing the ChainYou can tell if the chain is worn by pushing up on the chain in the middle (between the sprockets) with one hand, while pulling on the chain at the rear sprocket. If you can pull the chain out from the sprocket much at all, say 1/4" or more, the chain is worn out. Another way is to measure the total length of the chain, when new, and replace it when it has lengthened by 2 1/2 %. You will also find that a worn chain is hard to adjust because some spots will be tight and others loose. You will want to adjust the chain slack when the chain is at its tightest. If you find that the chain has stretched so much that there is no more adjustment, simply take out two rollers. This is very GROSS but it is effective. You normally have to remove them in pairs. Sometimes, you can get a special link that adds only one roller. In other words take out two rollers and add one, to shorten the chain by one roller.Chain Rollers Chain is always measured in rollers. Now that we are talking about chain and sprocket wear, the question arises... how much is too much ? If you are removing rollers, you are already well past the "Worn Out" stage and into the "Total Garbage" stage. But, how much is too much ? To get the answer, we need to consider several things. How much horse power do we have ? If the bike has a lot of suds the danger of chain breakage goes way up. When a chain brakes, it normally shoots one end through the crankcase. This can be quite expensive. If the chain jumps off the sprocket it can lock up the rear wheel. FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.If you are going really fast, shoot, even if you are not going fast, this can be very exciting. Also painful. If you are willing to live with the breakage and lockup risk, you can run the chain and sprockets untill the teeth get bent and rounded so bad the chain jumps teeth on the sprocket. Now, this is not the best thing to do but it can be done. Is there some sort of steel chain guard in front of the sprocket ? This could protect the crankcase in the event of a chain failure. Could you make one ? Is your health insurance paid up ? All in all, the best thing to do is replace the chain and sprockets and then keep them well oiled.
Motorcycles use chain because it is a very efficient way to transfer power from the transmission to the rear wheel. In the old days rear chains were totally enclosed and Enclosed Rear Chain sometimes run in an oil bath. These chains lasted a long time. Sometimes as much as 40,000 miles or more. These days we gotta look trick so no more enclosed chain. This means you have to lube the chain a lot more often. I would say you need to lube a chain with a good chain lube a minimum of once every time you fill the gas tank. Once an hour would be better. Most of my customers lube their chains, Oh... about once a year. That might be optimistic I think. As a result most chains and sprockets are worn out in less than a thousand miles. Usually, when the chain is worn out so are the front and rear sprockets. This is because a chain does not "stretch" as it wears. It becomes elongated due to wear in the joints. FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.This changes the pitch, which in turn wears out the sprockets. I have seen some big bikes, with big 630 chain, that seem to have worn out their chains without wearing out their sprockets too much. They were all well oiled all the time, they had big, low power engines AND I haven't seen very many of them. The biggest chain tip I can give is to oil that chain all the time. You can't do it too much.
But, back to the question of how far can you push it. Bob Lane sent me this picture from England and said...FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.
Jack up the vehicle, using the floor jack. Support the vehicle with jack stands. Slide the drain pan under the oil pan drain bolt. Remove the drain bolt and allow the oil to drain. FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.Dispose of the oil in an appropriate manner. Reinstall the oil drain bolt, so you don't lose it.Install the rear main bearing cap bolts. Tap the crankshaft with the lead hammer forward, then rearward, to line up the thrust surfaces. Tighten the bearing bolts to the proper specification for your year small block.
Slide the oil pan into place, then reinstall the oil pump. It is recommended that you replace the oil pan gasket, especially if it is a cork gasket. Lift the pan up and install the oil pan bolts. Tighten the bolts firmly. Lower the engine back onto the mounts and reinstall the mount through bolts and tighten them firmly.
Remove the rear main bearing cap, using the appropriate socket.FKM agricultural machinery oil seals. Pry the oil seal from the bearing cap, taking care not to scratch the cap. Drive the top half of the seal from the rear main bearing, using the brass pin punch and small hammer. Once it is out far enough, grab the end of it with the pliers and pull it the rest of the way out. Make sure you have at least an inch to grab onto, else the ends of the seal will just fray, and you won't be able to pull it out. The seal fits tightly in the bearing, so you will need to use some muscle to pull it out.
Clean the rear main bearing cap and crankshaft with a non-abrasive cleaner and shop rags.
Make an oil seal installation tool from the 0.004-inch shim stock by shaping the end to ?-inch long by 1/64-inch wide. Coat the new seal with engine oil, but do not coat the ends of the seal.
Place the block of wood on the floor jack. Jack it up enough to support the engine. Remove the engine mount through bolts, using the appropriate sockets. Remove the oil pan bolts, using the appropriate socket. FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.Jack the engine up high enough so that you can lower the oil pan enough to remove the oil pump.
Remove the two bolts holding the oil pump onto the block. Put the oil pump in the pan. Remove the pan. You may have to jack up the engine a bit higher to fit the oil pan out between the frame and transmission.
Position the installation tool between the crankshaft and the seal seat in the cylinder case. Position the new seal between the crankshaft and the top of the tool, ensuring that the seal bead contacts the tip of the tool. Ensure that the seal's lip is toward the front of the engine.
Work the seal into the bearing, using the installation tool as a shoe horn to protect the seal's bead from the sharp edge of the seal seat surface in the cylinder case. Roll the seal around the crankshaft. Once the ends of the seal are flush with the engine block, remove the installation tool.
Install the lower half of the seal into the lower half of the rear main bearing cap, using the same procedure and installation tool as the previous step. Apply RTV silicone to the cap-to-case mating surfaces. Install the rear main bearing cap, keeping the sealant off the seal's mating line.FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.
Lower the vehicle off the jack stands, using the floor jack. Fill then engine with the appropriate amount of oil for your year vehicle. If you cannot find the appropriate amount, put four and one-half quarts in, start the engine and allow it to run for two minutes. Shut the engine off. Check the oil and top off the oil as needed. Start the vehicle and check for oil leaks at the rear main seal and oil pan mating surface
When you get new sprockets, you might want to consider changing gear ratios. This can really help the bike be more enjoyable to ride. Bottom line... if your bike has trouble climbing that hill, (not enough power) go one tooth smaller on the front (counter shaft) sprocket. FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.If it revs too high in top gear... just won't go fast (MPH) enough... go up one tooth on the front sprocket.
In the old days, you would take the chain off, clean it off real good in solvent with a tooth brush and put it in a pan of grease. Put the pan on the stove and melt the grease so it will penetrate the bearing area, in the links of the chain. That's still a great way to really lube that chain, however, no one today will ever take the time to do it. 90 weight gear oil works good too, but it does tend to fly off. Fortunately, we have lots of different chain sprays on the market that work great. They go on as a liquid and penetrate the chain rollers, then dry, leaving the grease behind. The drill is to spray it on good and heavy, while spinning the wheel. Try to spray the edges of the chain. Now let it set for 10-15 minutes and you are good to go. O-Ring Chain
Now, I know what you are going to say. "I've got an O-Ring Chain. The ad said I don't have to lube it !" Well, How do you define "Lube" ? The picture to the left is of an O-Ring chain I took off a customers bike. For example, if you want to lower your engine RPM at highway cruising speeds you can either get a bigger (more teeth) front sprocket or a smaller (fewer teeth) rear sprocket. If you need more power up through the gears on a dirt bike, you can get a bigger rear sprocket or a smaller front sprocket. Generally speaking, one tooth change on the front sprocket equals about a 3 1/2 tooth change on the rear sprocket. FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.It's best to keep the front sprocket as big as possible to lessen chain velocity as the chain rounds the sprocket, however it is cheaper to change the front sprocket as opposed to changing the rear.Believe it or not, this is not the worst I've seen. One customer brought in an O-Ringed chained bike(XR200R Honda) and I could barely push it into the shop. You can't tell me that's not soaking up some horse power. The moral of the tale is this. Lube your chain even if it's an O-Ring chain. Just to complicate things, make sure the lube is OK for O-Ring chains.
Chain Alignment ToolA chain must be adjusted from time to time. Both front and rear sprockets must be in line with one another, otherwise the chain will wear more on one side than the other. To help in this there are marks on each side of the swingarm. Simply match the marks. Yes, it is true the marks may be off, but I don't think they are as far off as some people say. If it bothers you that much, look down the chain and see if it going to one side or the other. Adjust it so it tracks straight. There are tools, like the one to the right, that you can use to help. When adjusted right the chain will have 1/2" or so, up and down play in the center between the sprockets. This is for bikes with normal shock travel. If you have a long shock travel bike (most dirt bikes) this play may be as much as 1 1/2". Check you shop manual for the correct amount.FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.
Testing the ChainYou can tell if the chain is worn by pushing up on the chain in the middle (between the sprockets) with one hand, while pulling on the chain at the rear sprocket. If you can pull the chain out from the sprocket much at all, say 1/4" or more, the chain is worn out. Another way is to measure the total length of the chain, when new, and replace it when it has lengthened by 2 1/2 %. You will also find that a worn chain is hard to adjust because some spots will be tight and others loose. You will want to adjust the chain slack when the chain is at its tightest. If you find that the chain has stretched so much that there is no more adjustment, simply take out two rollers. This is very GROSS but it is effective. You normally have to remove them in pairs. Sometimes, you can get a special link that adds only one roller. In other words take out two rollers and add one, to shorten the chain by one roller.Chain Rollers Chain is always measured in rollers. Now that we are talking about chain and sprocket wear, the question arises... how much is too much ? If you are removing rollers, you are already well past the "Worn Out" stage and into the "Total Garbage" stage. But, how much is too much ? To get the answer, we need to consider several things. How much horse power do we have ? If the bike has a lot of suds the danger of chain breakage goes way up. When a chain brakes, it normally shoots one end through the crankcase. This can be quite expensive. If the chain jumps off the sprocket it can lock up the rear wheel. FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.If you are going really fast, shoot, even if you are not going fast, this can be very exciting. Also painful. If you are willing to live with the breakage and lockup risk, you can run the chain and sprockets untill the teeth get bent and rounded so bad the chain jumps teeth on the sprocket. Now, this is not the best thing to do but it can be done. Is there some sort of steel chain guard in front of the sprocket ? This could protect the crankcase in the event of a chain failure. Could you make one ? Is your health insurance paid up ? All in all, the best thing to do is replace the chain and sprockets and then keep them well oiled.
Motorcycles use chain because it is a very efficient way to transfer power from the transmission to the rear wheel. In the old days rear chains were totally enclosed and Enclosed Rear Chain sometimes run in an oil bath. These chains lasted a long time. Sometimes as much as 40,000 miles or more. These days we gotta look trick so no more enclosed chain. This means you have to lube the chain a lot more often. I would say you need to lube a chain with a good chain lube a minimum of once every time you fill the gas tank. Once an hour would be better. Most of my customers lube their chains, Oh... about once a year. That might be optimistic I think. As a result most chains and sprockets are worn out in less than a thousand miles. Usually, when the chain is worn out so are the front and rear sprockets. This is because a chain does not "stretch" as it wears. It becomes elongated due to wear in the joints. FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.This changes the pitch, which in turn wears out the sprockets. I have seen some big bikes, with big 630 chain, that seem to have worn out their chains without wearing out their sprockets too much. They were all well oiled all the time, they had big, low power engines AND I haven't seen very many of them. The biggest chain tip I can give is to oil that chain all the time. You can't do it too much.
But, back to the question of how far can you push it. Bob Lane sent me this picture from England and said...FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.
STO valve stem oil seals in motorcycle
STO valve stem oil seals in motorcycle.These vital seals must keep oil inside the engine while coping with the crankshaft's rotation and heat expansion.Rear main seals come in many shapes and sizes, but all are responsible for sealing the back of an engine's crankshaft.
Once-piece Seals
One-piece seals are the best at sealing but require a specially machined crankshaft and cannot be replaced without pulling the crank.STO valve stem oil seals in motorcycle.
Many older engines used "rope" seals that resembled a piece of cord. These rope seals did a decent job of keeping oil pressure in the engine but would eventually become saturated and start to leak.
These plastic seals are an improvement over rope seals but are still prone to leakage. STO valve stem oil seals in motorcycle.These seals are often used because they do not require removal of the crankshaft to replace.
Older seals may leak due to heat shrinkage, damage and pitting, defects in the crankshaft, improper installation or clogging of the Positive Crankcase Ventilation system (PCV).
Rear main seals are located at the back of the crankshaft, at the rear of the engine block. STO valve stem oil seals in motorcycle.Many of these seals can only be installed or replaced by removing the rear crankshaft main cap.
Once-piece Seals
One-piece seals are the best at sealing but require a specially machined crankshaft and cannot be replaced without pulling the crank.STO valve stem oil seals in motorcycle.
Many older engines used "rope" seals that resembled a piece of cord. These rope seals did a decent job of keeping oil pressure in the engine but would eventually become saturated and start to leak.
These plastic seals are an improvement over rope seals but are still prone to leakage. STO valve stem oil seals in motorcycle.These seals are often used because they do not require removal of the crankshaft to replace.
Older seals may leak due to heat shrinkage, damage and pitting, defects in the crankshaft, improper installation or clogging of the Positive Crankcase Ventilation system (PCV).
Rear main seals are located at the back of the crankshaft, at the rear of the engine block. STO valve stem oil seals in motorcycle.Many of these seals can only be installed or replaced by removing the rear crankshaft main cap.
corteco valve oil seals for motorcycle
Corteco valve oil seals for motorcycle.Install the oil pan but while doing so make sure the rear main bearing cap's groove lines up with the oil pan gasket. Also pay particular attention to gasket on the front of the engine. It has built in grooves that has to sit just right. Tighten all the bolts and nuts to 12ft.lbs.
Replace the oil filter and put in 5qt of oil and watch the dip stick to top off. I learned my jeep even tough it was almost bone dry (which I left it to drain for two days while I was working on the rear end.) it did not take the full 6qts. More like 5 and 1/2 qts total to have it read "Full" on the dip stick.Corteco valve oil seals for motorcycle.
Enjoy leak free engine! No more oil spots on the driveway! Pat yourself on the back, you saved a few hundred dollars!
You'll also want to set aside several hours for this job as it is a good idea A) to make sure everything is clean and B) to give the RTV sealer used in the main cap side cavities time to cure. Despite the numerous steps below, the job is not hard to do if you just take your time.Corteco valve oil seals for motorcycle. All attempts have been made include everything needed.A good time to do the rear main seal is during an oil change as you have to drain the oil anyway.
Tools you'll need
1/2" drive ratchet, 5/8" socket for rear main cap bolts use a 6-point socket on rear main cap bolts!!!
1/4" drive ratchet, 1/2" & 7/16" socket for oil pan bolts
Torque wrench (1/2" drive, 0 to 150 lb/ft min)
Needle Nose pliers
Rubber Mallet or "soft" hammer
Rags & Acetone to clean surfaces
Small screwdriver and/or putty knife to clean off old RTV sealer
Stuff you may need
New oil screen pick up gasket
Piece of stiff sold copper wire--plastic coated is O.K.
Stuff you'll need
New Neoprene rear main seal
Black or Ultra-Black, O2 sensor safe RTV Sealer
New Oil Pan Gasket
Breaker Bar
Drain Oil, remove crossover pipe and oil pan. Depending on you car, you may or may not need to lift one side of the engine to get the pan off. Some guys have used their engine tie down to rock the engine over to one side. If you do need to jack up the engine use a block of wood (piece of 2x4) between the engine and the jack. Locate the jack at the front of the transmission pan. The three bolts at the front of the pan are smaller (10mm) than all the others. There is one bolt on the passenger side that secures a clamp that holds the tranny lines. This one can be a real pain to get off (try using an open end wrench.) There is a baffle in the oil pan and it can hang up on the oil pickup screen. Corteco valve oil seals for motorcycle.If you have trouble removing the pan, try rotating the engine to get the counterweights out of the way. Removal of the converter dust shield may also provide more clearance. As a last resort, removing the pickup tube guarantees that the pan will come off.
Note: One trick is to insert the new seal so that the mating faces of the new seal are not lined up with the mating faces of the main cap. About a 1/4" extra rotation one way is enough.
Put a thin coat of RTV sealer on the cap-to-block mating surface of the main cap and on the chamfered edge. Lube the main bearing with clean oil. Make sure the bearing is seated in the cap. If needed push the bearing into the cap and make sure the tang is engaged in the slot in the cap. Install the cap back in the block. You'll be able to push it up about 95% of the way by hand. Corteco valve oil seals for motorcycle.Then tap on the bottom of the cap with a rubber mallet to get the cap seated back onto the block. Install the main cap bolts and torque them to 25, 50, 75, then 100 lb/ft--or you can just set your torque wrench to 100 lb/ft and turn the bolts a 1/2 turn or so at a time till you reach 100.
The side cavities need to be filled full of RTV sealer.
Reinstall oil pan and crossover pipe. Apply a smear coat of RTV to the seams where the main cap meets the bottom of the block--where the oil pan bolts on. You can also put a smear coat where the front cover mates to the block. If your using a rubber (stock) oil pan gasket it is going to be tricky getting the pan up and in place without the gasket moving all over the place! If you can get a cork gasket you'll be better off! Don't be afraid to use a few dabs (just don't use globs!) of RTV to stick the gasket to the pan. Install all oil pan bolts loosely (to make sure they all go in straight) and then tighten to 96 inch/lbs (or 8 ft/lbs.)
Fill her up with oil and a fresh filter. If you removed the oil pick up screen, disconnect the power to the computer and crank the engine over to make sure you are getting oil pressure. (If you are having trouble building oil pressure, remove the spark plugs and turn over the motor. It will spin much faster without the compression load dragging it down.) Start the engine and keep an eye out for leaks for the next few days. Corteco valve oil seals for motorcycle.
Inspect the oil pickup screen. You may find your old rear main seal on the bottom of the screen!!! *IF* the screen looks like it needs cleaning or is all clogged up, remove it and clean it. REPLACE the gasket that goes between the block and pick up. Apply loctite thread sealer to the oil pump pickup bolts. These bolts are prone to working lose. If they do, you will lose oil pressure and your engine soon after!!! Factory torque spec is 96 inch/lbs (or 8 ft/lbs.)
The torque spec for the rear main cap bolts is 100 lb/ft. It is helpful to have a breaker bar to get these bolts loose. Once loose, the bearing cap is more than likely going to stay "stuck" in place. The side cavities of the cap are filled with RTV sealer. One trick is to loosen both main cap bolts completely and pull them about 1/2 way out of the cap. You can then use them as "handles" to wiggle the cap front to back to get it loose. You may also need to pry against the crank flange and the back side of the cap to get it loose. Corteco valve oil seals for motorcycle.Keep working at it...that old RTV can be tough to break loose! You can also run a very small screwdriver up the cavities to break loose the RTV. DO NOT DROP THE CAP! The lower half of you rear MAIN BEARING will be in the cap. Don't get any dirt on the bearing. The crankshaft journal will also be exposed with the cap off. Take care not to nick or scratch it-- there should be no need to even touch it.
Move the main cap to a work bench. This can be as much fun as getting the pan off! RTV has a viscosity of about 200 weight! (Do not use the rubber inserts that come with the new seal; just use RTV sealer.) Make sure you start with a new tube of sealer. Cut the tube so it will fit into the side cavities (one notch down on a new cone tip.) One trick is to slide a flat washer over the tube tip and use it to have something to push against as you squeeze the cavities full. Stick the tip in and squeeze away! Keep filling the cavities until you see it squirt out the sides of the main cap. Corteco valve oil seals for motorcycle.Stick a piece of wet wire into the cavities and remove. This is done to break any air pockets and provide the moisture needed to cure the RTV.The lower half of the main seal can be pulled out by hand or with a pair of needle nose pliers. ALL of the old RTV sealer needs to be removed from the side cavities and sides of the main cap. Lube one half of the new main seal and slide it into the groove in the main cap. The split part of the lip on the new seal faces the front of the engine. The package should show the correct orientation of the seal lip. Set the cap aside (covered to eliminate the possibility of airborne particles falling on it.)
Again, depending on the car, the upper half of the main seal may be easy or difficult to remove. Remember, your working around your crank journal so be careful. Try and grab the main seal with a pair of needle nose pliers and pull it out. If it comes out in one piece you're all set. If it breaks, you may need to gently slide a piece of stiff insulated solid copper wire up in to push the remaining piece(s) of seal out. Sometimes it helps to have someone turn the engine while you push on the seal to remove it.
Once the old seal is out, clean off any RTV sealer on the block. Lube up the other half of the new seal and slide it up into the block with your thumb--make sure it is facing the right way!Corteco valve oil seals for motorcycle.
Replace the oil filter and put in 5qt of oil and watch the dip stick to top off. I learned my jeep even tough it was almost bone dry (which I left it to drain for two days while I was working on the rear end.) it did not take the full 6qts. More like 5 and 1/2 qts total to have it read "Full" on the dip stick.Corteco valve oil seals for motorcycle.
Enjoy leak free engine! No more oil spots on the driveway! Pat yourself on the back, you saved a few hundred dollars!
You'll also want to set aside several hours for this job as it is a good idea A) to make sure everything is clean and B) to give the RTV sealer used in the main cap side cavities time to cure. Despite the numerous steps below, the job is not hard to do if you just take your time.Corteco valve oil seals for motorcycle. All attempts have been made include everything needed.A good time to do the rear main seal is during an oil change as you have to drain the oil anyway.
Tools you'll need
1/2" drive ratchet, 5/8" socket for rear main cap bolts use a 6-point socket on rear main cap bolts!!!
1/4" drive ratchet, 1/2" & 7/16" socket for oil pan bolts
Torque wrench (1/2" drive, 0 to 150 lb/ft min)
Needle Nose pliers
Rubber Mallet or "soft" hammer
Rags & Acetone to clean surfaces
Small screwdriver and/or putty knife to clean off old RTV sealer
Stuff you may need
New oil screen pick up gasket
Piece of stiff sold copper wire--plastic coated is O.K.
Stuff you'll need
New Neoprene rear main seal
Black or Ultra-Black, O2 sensor safe RTV Sealer
New Oil Pan Gasket
Breaker Bar
Drain Oil, remove crossover pipe and oil pan. Depending on you car, you may or may not need to lift one side of the engine to get the pan off. Some guys have used their engine tie down to rock the engine over to one side. If you do need to jack up the engine use a block of wood (piece of 2x4) between the engine and the jack. Locate the jack at the front of the transmission pan. The three bolts at the front of the pan are smaller (10mm) than all the others. There is one bolt on the passenger side that secures a clamp that holds the tranny lines. This one can be a real pain to get off (try using an open end wrench.) There is a baffle in the oil pan and it can hang up on the oil pickup screen. Corteco valve oil seals for motorcycle.If you have trouble removing the pan, try rotating the engine to get the counterweights out of the way. Removal of the converter dust shield may also provide more clearance. As a last resort, removing the pickup tube guarantees that the pan will come off.
Note: One trick is to insert the new seal so that the mating faces of the new seal are not lined up with the mating faces of the main cap. About a 1/4" extra rotation one way is enough.
Put a thin coat of RTV sealer on the cap-to-block mating surface of the main cap and on the chamfered edge. Lube the main bearing with clean oil. Make sure the bearing is seated in the cap. If needed push the bearing into the cap and make sure the tang is engaged in the slot in the cap. Install the cap back in the block. You'll be able to push it up about 95% of the way by hand. Corteco valve oil seals for motorcycle.Then tap on the bottom of the cap with a rubber mallet to get the cap seated back onto the block. Install the main cap bolts and torque them to 25, 50, 75, then 100 lb/ft--or you can just set your torque wrench to 100 lb/ft and turn the bolts a 1/2 turn or so at a time till you reach 100.
The side cavities need to be filled full of RTV sealer.
Reinstall oil pan and crossover pipe. Apply a smear coat of RTV to the seams where the main cap meets the bottom of the block--where the oil pan bolts on. You can also put a smear coat where the front cover mates to the block. If your using a rubber (stock) oil pan gasket it is going to be tricky getting the pan up and in place without the gasket moving all over the place! If you can get a cork gasket you'll be better off! Don't be afraid to use a few dabs (just don't use globs!) of RTV to stick the gasket to the pan. Install all oil pan bolts loosely (to make sure they all go in straight) and then tighten to 96 inch/lbs (or 8 ft/lbs.)
Fill her up with oil and a fresh filter. If you removed the oil pick up screen, disconnect the power to the computer and crank the engine over to make sure you are getting oil pressure. (If you are having trouble building oil pressure, remove the spark plugs and turn over the motor. It will spin much faster without the compression load dragging it down.) Start the engine and keep an eye out for leaks for the next few days. Corteco valve oil seals for motorcycle.
Inspect the oil pickup screen. You may find your old rear main seal on the bottom of the screen!!! *IF* the screen looks like it needs cleaning or is all clogged up, remove it and clean it. REPLACE the gasket that goes between the block and pick up. Apply loctite thread sealer to the oil pump pickup bolts. These bolts are prone to working lose. If they do, you will lose oil pressure and your engine soon after!!! Factory torque spec is 96 inch/lbs (or 8 ft/lbs.)
The torque spec for the rear main cap bolts is 100 lb/ft. It is helpful to have a breaker bar to get these bolts loose. Once loose, the bearing cap is more than likely going to stay "stuck" in place. The side cavities of the cap are filled with RTV sealer. One trick is to loosen both main cap bolts completely and pull them about 1/2 way out of the cap. You can then use them as "handles" to wiggle the cap front to back to get it loose. You may also need to pry against the crank flange and the back side of the cap to get it loose. Corteco valve oil seals for motorcycle.Keep working at it...that old RTV can be tough to break loose! You can also run a very small screwdriver up the cavities to break loose the RTV. DO NOT DROP THE CAP! The lower half of you rear MAIN BEARING will be in the cap. Don't get any dirt on the bearing. The crankshaft journal will also be exposed with the cap off. Take care not to nick or scratch it-- there should be no need to even touch it.
Move the main cap to a work bench. This can be as much fun as getting the pan off! RTV has a viscosity of about 200 weight! (Do not use the rubber inserts that come with the new seal; just use RTV sealer.) Make sure you start with a new tube of sealer. Cut the tube so it will fit into the side cavities (one notch down on a new cone tip.) One trick is to slide a flat washer over the tube tip and use it to have something to push against as you squeeze the cavities full. Stick the tip in and squeeze away! Keep filling the cavities until you see it squirt out the sides of the main cap. Corteco valve oil seals for motorcycle.Stick a piece of wet wire into the cavities and remove. This is done to break any air pockets and provide the moisture needed to cure the RTV.The lower half of the main seal can be pulled out by hand or with a pair of needle nose pliers. ALL of the old RTV sealer needs to be removed from the side cavities and sides of the main cap. Lube one half of the new main seal and slide it into the groove in the main cap. The split part of the lip on the new seal faces the front of the engine. The package should show the correct orientation of the seal lip. Set the cap aside (covered to eliminate the possibility of airborne particles falling on it.)
Again, depending on the car, the upper half of the main seal may be easy or difficult to remove. Remember, your working around your crank journal so be careful. Try and grab the main seal with a pair of needle nose pliers and pull it out. If it comes out in one piece you're all set. If it breaks, you may need to gently slide a piece of stiff insulated solid copper wire up in to push the remaining piece(s) of seal out. Sometimes it helps to have someone turn the engine while you push on the seal to remove it.
Once the old seal is out, clean off any RTV sealer on the block. Lube up the other half of the new seal and slide it up into the block with your thumb--make sure it is facing the right way!Corteco valve oil seals for motorcycle.
cfw truck oil seals
Cfw truck oil seals.So how do you install the upper seal without cutting it up? Fel-Pro included this nifty thin plastic that you wedge between the channel and the seal to keep it from getting cut. I saw the same seal kit that included this plastic piece, and some did not. Your mileage may vary.
Notice the orientation of the seal where the mouth of the seal opens toward the front of the vehicle. Once seal is in place, simply pull the plastic out.
Install the down pipe back on the header and install the oxygen sensor back on the down pipe and JUST hand tight it down.Cfw truck oil seals. It just needs to be on there tight enough so it won't fall back out on its own.
Start applying Chrysler Anaerobic Sealant or Loctite 518 on the rear main bearing cap mating surfaces as shown in the following picture. You DO NOT NEED MUCH. It is CRUCIAL that you DO NOT get any of this sealant on the lip of the seal! Make sure you compensate for the spread of the sealant once it is jammed between the surfaces. Put some engine oil on the bearing!!
Install the main bearing cap and torque the bolts to 80ft.lbs.Install the bearing brace and torque the bolts to 35ft.lbs.
Place the oil pan gasket on the pan.Cfw truck oil seals. I used RTV on the crucial area at the front of the block and where the rear bearing cap. I can use RTV here, because this is to seal something that is not moving against anything. Notice that I used RTV on both the top and the bottom of the oil pan gasket. *MAKE SURE YOU CLEAN THE MATING SURFACE OF THE ENGINE BLOCK FREE OF ANY SEALANT AND OILY RESIDUE! I used paint prepping solvent to clean the surface.
Anaerobic Sealant starts curing after when it is isolated from the atmosphere unlike most RTVs.Cfw truck oil seals. Some may say they got away with using RTV. They got away. I am not sure if you will. I also noticed the anaerobic sealer had different viscosity compare to the red RTV that I used on the oil pan gasket. BTW it is the factory service manual that is calling for this Loctite 518 or equivalent. There is no Loctite 518 available in the local part store which is the anaerobic sealant. You will have to get this sealant from the dealer.Cfw truck oil seals.
Notice the orientation of the seal where the mouth of the seal opens toward the front of the vehicle. Once seal is in place, simply pull the plastic out.
Install the down pipe back on the header and install the oxygen sensor back on the down pipe and JUST hand tight it down.Cfw truck oil seals. It just needs to be on there tight enough so it won't fall back out on its own.
Start applying Chrysler Anaerobic Sealant or Loctite 518 on the rear main bearing cap mating surfaces as shown in the following picture. You DO NOT NEED MUCH. It is CRUCIAL that you DO NOT get any of this sealant on the lip of the seal! Make sure you compensate for the spread of the sealant once it is jammed between the surfaces. Put some engine oil on the bearing!!
Install the main bearing cap and torque the bolts to 80ft.lbs.Install the bearing brace and torque the bolts to 35ft.lbs.
Place the oil pan gasket on the pan.Cfw truck oil seals. I used RTV on the crucial area at the front of the block and where the rear bearing cap. I can use RTV here, because this is to seal something that is not moving against anything. Notice that I used RTV on both the top and the bottom of the oil pan gasket. *MAKE SURE YOU CLEAN THE MATING SURFACE OF THE ENGINE BLOCK FREE OF ANY SEALANT AND OILY RESIDUE! I used paint prepping solvent to clean the surface.
Anaerobic Sealant starts curing after when it is isolated from the atmosphere unlike most RTVs.Cfw truck oil seals. Some may say they got away with using RTV. They got away. I am not sure if you will. I also noticed the anaerobic sealer had different viscosity compare to the red RTV that I used on the oil pan gasket. BTW it is the factory service manual that is calling for this Loctite 518 or equivalent. There is no Loctite 518 available in the local part store which is the anaerobic sealant. You will have to get this sealant from the dealer.Cfw truck oil seals.
Ars heavy truck oil seals
Ars heavy truck oil seals.Here is what they look like removed from the engine. The top half and the bottom half is shown here.
Notice how the old seal has lost its shape. Blue residue shown on the new seal is wheel bearing grease.
While you are cleaning the bearing cap, if the bearing falls out of the cap, put it back on the cap with a bit of grease to go between the two pieces. It only goes in one direction.Ars heavy truck oil seals.
Here is one crucial detail that every online write up fails to emphasize. As you push in the upper half of the seal, if you do not follow (as you push the seal) the circle channel carefully, you will cut the seal and this will guarantee the rear main seal to leak again.Ars heavy truck oil seals.
Clean the engine block where the bearing cap mates against free of any residue whatsoever! This cannot be stressed enough! Clean ANY mating surface ABSOLUTELY free of any old sealant and any type of residue!! Remember you have to do this WITHOUT damaging/scoring the metal!
This is a picture of two pieces of paper towels. Left one is used to absorb the oil from the bottom of the oil pan. The one on the right is virgin oil. There was considerable amount of solid stuck on the bottom of the oil pan.
Start cleaning the oil pan. Remove the old gasket and clean the mating surface with mild wire wheel. I cleaned the surface with paint prepping agent once again. this gets rid of any oil residues left behind.Ars heavy truck oil seals.
Here is how they should look after you are done cleaning.
Install the upper half of the seal after lubing with some engine oil. DO NOT PUT ANY SEALANT ON THIS SEAL! With the seal's lip opening towards the front of the vehicle.Ars heavy truck oil seals.
Notice how the old seal has lost its shape. Blue residue shown on the new seal is wheel bearing grease.
While you are cleaning the bearing cap, if the bearing falls out of the cap, put it back on the cap with a bit of grease to go between the two pieces. It only goes in one direction.Ars heavy truck oil seals.
Here is one crucial detail that every online write up fails to emphasize. As you push in the upper half of the seal, if you do not follow (as you push the seal) the circle channel carefully, you will cut the seal and this will guarantee the rear main seal to leak again.Ars heavy truck oil seals.
Clean the engine block where the bearing cap mates against free of any residue whatsoever! This cannot be stressed enough! Clean ANY mating surface ABSOLUTELY free of any old sealant and any type of residue!! Remember you have to do this WITHOUT damaging/scoring the metal!
This is a picture of two pieces of paper towels. Left one is used to absorb the oil from the bottom of the oil pan. The one on the right is virgin oil. There was considerable amount of solid stuck on the bottom of the oil pan.
Start cleaning the oil pan. Remove the old gasket and clean the mating surface with mild wire wheel. I cleaned the surface with paint prepping agent once again. this gets rid of any oil residues left behind.Ars heavy truck oil seals.
Here is how they should look after you are done cleaning.
Install the upper half of the seal after lubing with some engine oil. DO NOT PUT ANY SEALANT ON THIS SEAL! With the seal's lip opening towards the front of the vehicle.Ars heavy truck oil seals.
Metal motorcycle oil seals for Honda
Metal motorcycle oil seals for Honda.Some instruction that were included in the oil pan seal and the rear main seal.
Remove the oxygen sensor from the down pipe. Remove the bolts and nuts holding the down pipe to the header. You will have to move the pipe around so that you can lower the oil pan later.Metal motorcycle oil seals for Honda.
Drain the engine oil. I have SureDrain by Fram installed on the oil pan.
Remove the main bearing cap brace by removing 12 bolts. This is the long stick shown in the following picture.Metal motorcycle oil seals for Honda.
With the main bearing cap brace removed, remove the rear main bearing cap.
You will have to wiggle the cap loose front to back, not side to side.
Remove the top half of the seal by driving it out of the block. Use extreme caution not to score/dent/scratch anywhere. One small nick or scratch can cause leak and is no longer repairable. As you remove the seal, note the orientation of the seal. The seal is opening towards the front of the vehicle.Metal motorcycle oil seals for Honda.
Chrysler used different sized bolts to hold the oil pan to the engine block. I think they used 1/2 inch and another size. I took several pictures of the bolts and where they are located so I don't I have to remember them where they go back. Here they are, for your reference. Start removing them and put them in a safe place.
Once the oil pan is out of the Jeep, this is what it looks like. Your engine may look different with less brown. My Jeep is 10 years old.Metal motorcycle oil seals for Honda.
Remove the oxygen sensor from the down pipe. Remove the bolts and nuts holding the down pipe to the header. You will have to move the pipe around so that you can lower the oil pan later.Metal motorcycle oil seals for Honda.
Drain the engine oil. I have SureDrain by Fram installed on the oil pan.
Remove the main bearing cap brace by removing 12 bolts. This is the long stick shown in the following picture.Metal motorcycle oil seals for Honda.
With the main bearing cap brace removed, remove the rear main bearing cap.
You will have to wiggle the cap loose front to back, not side to side.
Remove the top half of the seal by driving it out of the block. Use extreme caution not to score/dent/scratch anywhere. One small nick or scratch can cause leak and is no longer repairable. As you remove the seal, note the orientation of the seal. The seal is opening towards the front of the vehicle.Metal motorcycle oil seals for Honda.
Chrysler used different sized bolts to hold the oil pan to the engine block. I think they used 1/2 inch and another size. I took several pictures of the bolts and where they are located so I don't I have to remember them where they go back. Here they are, for your reference. Start removing them and put them in a safe place.
Once the oil pan is out of the Jeep, this is what it looks like. Your engine may look different with less brown. My Jeep is 10 years old.Metal motorcycle oil seals for Honda.
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