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Brilliant Quality ndk oil seals Factory Offer.I rated this difficulty 3/5 only because you have to remove the transmission and flywheel to get to the seal. See 1000q: mk5 Jetta manual transmission removal and 1000q: flywheel/clutch removal on VW Jetta for details. The rear main oil seal seals the transmission end of the crankshaft. If the car doesn’t have many miles and it’s not leaking I would leave it alone. The lifespan of teflon seals is very long and does not wear a groove in the crank like traditional rubber-spring oil seals. Therefore, it should last quite a long time without a problem. If the car has very high miles on it (300,000+) and if the flywheel is already off, I would consider replacing the seal. All mk5 and newer cars came from the factory with a teflon seal with no metal spring.
Teflon seals must be installed without bending the lip. The replacement seal includes a plastic guide sleeve installation tool. It only fits one way and guides the RMS onto the crankshaft by stretching the seal a little bit for installation. The new seals used on your car use tool T10134 shown below, to press the seal on. Do not lube teflon seals before installation! Let a new seal sit a few hours before filling with oil and at least 4 hours before starting the engine.Any acid free hylomar gasket maker should be an acceptable substitute for the VW brand gasket maker.Brilliant Quality ndk oil seals Factory Offer.
The rear main seal is relatively expensive because part of the Hall effect engine speed sensor is on it. The yellow tab on the seal is to hold it in place until installation. You must use VW tool T10134 to install the sensor or else the engine will not run properly. Details on the tool are below.
Procedure to replace the engine speed sensor or rear main seal on your VW Jetta TDI
Watch this video first but make sure to read the full DIY! There are important steps and notes not included in the video! I also made a small mistake pressing the installation sleeve in the wrong direction (visible in a few spots but fixed during editing). The sleeve doesn’t latch onto the crankshaft so the seal wasn’t damaged but if the sleeve sticks out beyond the seal lip, I suspect there is less chance of seal lip damage. The installation sleeve stretches out the seal so it can be pushed over the crankshaft. The seal ends up in the same position as it’s being pushed forward but do it as instructed in the video and in this DIY.
This was performed on my demo engine out of the car. If the article needs any corrections showing this procedure in the car, please post in the myturbodiesel.com forums and help improve the article! This demo engine was purchased to make quality writeups and not for personal use – please use the donate button above so that I can provide more great DIY!
Set the engine cylinder #1 to top dead center (TDC). The camshaft rotates once for every 2 crankshaft rotations so if you are using the timing belt side to find TDC, use the crankshaft sprocket lock as shown in 1000q: BRM engine timing belt removal and check the camshaft to make sure it’s at TDC and not 180 degrees off. The metalnerd crank lock is shown below. You DO NOT want to find out “after the fact” that you had the engine 180 degrees out!Brilliant Quality ndk oil seals Factory Offer.
Remove the transmission. See 1000q: VW Jetta TDI transmission removal for more details. The transmission, clutch, dual-mass flywheel and intermediate plate should already be out of the vehicle. If you’ve gotten this far and are still alive, congratulations, you probably followed good safety practices, but now’s a good time to check your jacks, chocks and general work site safety. Below is a thumbnail, click to enlarge.
Remove the pressure plate bolts (6x 9mm 12 point head bolts) and the flywheel bolts (6x 12mm triple square bolts). See 1000q: flywheel/clutch removal on VW Jetta for details. The flywheel bolt holes will only align in one orientation. This ensures that the TDC stamp mark is correct. If you are installing a new flywheel, make a mark on the engine to note where TDC is and examine them against each other off the car. Double check the position of the TDC stamp on the new vs. old flywheel.
Pull the metal shim off. It will stick on the tab at the top and some transmission alignment dowels.
The factory service manual’s method to replace the RMS flange/rear main seal carrier is to remove the oil pan, install the rear main seal, and then install the oil pan with new oil pan sealant (gasket maker). This ensures that the flange is sealed correctly at the corner and that the bead along the bottom of the flange forms a good gasket. The alternative is to leave the oil pan on, then put a dab of gasket maker at the corners and an even smear along the oil pan-flange to seal it. Since it’s your car the installation method is up to you. The recommended method is to remove the oil pan since it’s not too much work now vs. if it leaks later due to a poor seal.Brilliant Quality ndk oil seals Factory Offer.
Loosen the 6x 10mm bolts on the front face of the flange. There are also 2x 5mm allen bolts on the underside. To remove the oil pan, use a long ball head allen bit to loosen them due to the angle (shown below). It’s more secure than using extensions and a u-joint. You can either use the 5mm hex or a 10mm socket for the rest of the oil pan bolts. Remove them in an alternating pattern. Remove the Engine Speed Sensor using the 2.5mm ball head hex key. The screw holding the sensor to the old seal is hard to get to and at a slight angle, so the ball head hex key helps here.
Gently pull the seal flange straight off. Don’t pry close to the sealing surfaces of the crankshaft or you might scratch it. Use m6 bolts, at least 30mm long as shown below to get it off. The service manual says 35mm but 30 is enough. Press off the old seal and sensor wheel together from the crankshaft using the three M6x35mm bolts. Thread the three bolts into the three holes provided in the seal. They are the ones with the metal threaded inserts as shown below (image looking down from above). Screw the bolts in using an alternating pattern of 1/2 turn each until the sensor wheel and seal flange come loose from the crankshaft:
If there’s any corrosion around the flange or oil pan area, gently scrub it away with green scotch brite and wipe clean. Green scotch brite is soft enough to not scratch the metal surfaces or put a scratch into the metal. Toroughly clean all oil and old gasket maker off the sealing surfaces. Don’t use a paper gasket to seal the oil pan, only use a thin 2-3mm bead of gasket maker. Any gasket maker should be inboard of any bolt holes to form an oil proof seal.Brilliant Quality ndk oil seals Factory Offer.
In the image above you can see the engine speed sensor hanging loose to the left. Notice the angle of the hex screw relative to the plane of the seal which makes it a bit difficult to get out and back on.
Notice the black plastic sealing lip support ring in the center. DO NOT remove this ring as it serves as an assembly sleeve to keep the teflon inner seal from becoming distorted during installation. Teflon seals are highly durable to wear but deform easily. Tool #T10134 is designed to accept this sleeve during installation.
Also notice the orange tab. DO NOT remove this until ready to do so later in these instructions. This tab keeps the position of the sensor ring relative to the seal and also to the engine speed sensor. If this moves even slightly THE ENGINE WILL NOT START or may start but run poorly and you will need to do this all over again (ask me how I know sometime).
Mounting the rear main oil seal to T10134:
1. If not already in this position, screw the tension nut down on the threaded tensioner as in the pictures of the tool at the top of the page. The tensioner has two flattened sides in the threaded section. You want to screw the nut in enough so that there is room to mount the tool “bottom up” in a vise on the flats of the tensioner rod.Brilliant Quality ndk oil seals Factory Offer.
2. Mount the tool in a vise:
3. Press the assembly bell down on the nut fully.
4. Lay a straight edge across the bell and tensioner surface as Shown. The tensioner surface (black) should be on the same level as the assembly bell. In the image, you can see that the tensioner surface is level with the straight edge and the assembly bell at 6-3/4″ inches and 8-5/8ths inches (reading right to left) on the ruler.In this image you can see that the tensioner is below the assembly bell. It should not be like this.Brilliant Quality ndk oil seals Factory Offer
5. Remove the orange sensor wheel securing clip from the new seal.
6. Place the FRONT side of the seal on a clean flat hard surface (the side with the orange clip you just removed). Press on the sealing lip support ring (the black inner plastic ring) until it is flush with the hard surface. This ensures it is in the proper position when mounted in the tool.
7. On the rear of the seal, look next to the upper threaded hole where you put the top M6x35mm extractor bolt. There is a slight dimple mark (greyish circle in the image below) . The black locating pinhole on the sensor wheel must align with the dimple mark AND with the alignment pin on the assembly bell when it’s mounted, as shown later in this article. The red pin is for gasoline engines.
8. Mount the seal on the assembly tool with the assembly bell pin aligned with the sensor ring pinhole. Gently but firmly screw the three knurled seal mounting screws into the seal. Keep firm pressure on the seal during this step to ensure that the pin didn’t inadvertently slip out of the pinhole. Make sure the seal is flat and level with the surface of the assembly bell before you move on and that the alignment pins didn’t get out of position.Brilliant Quality ndk oil seals Factory Offer.