crankshaft motorcycle oil seals

Crankshaft motorcycle oil seals.Once the seal is installed in the retainer it is time to get the liquid gasket ready.I preferred to use ultra black rtv silicone gasket maker.Follow the grooves in the retainer with a bead about 3mm wide and go on the inside of all bolt holes.Should look like this.i have to use the same pic twice since i didn’t take a god pic of the seal and retainer before i put gasket maker on it.
I tried to use my seal pick set to remove the seal from the retainer and bent them all, so i had to drive the seal out of the retainer from the back side of it with a flathead screwdriver by sticking the head in the groove of the seal and striking the screwdriver with a hammer.Crankshaft motorcycle oil seals.

Next take the putty knife and scrape all the old gasket material from the block and seal retainer. The seal pick set worked real nice to get the gasket material out of the grooves on the retainer.Crankshaft motorcycle oil seals.


Once torqued reinstall your flywheel and clutch components or flexplate(auto) and get the trans or motor back in and by the time you are done with that it will be dry and you are good to go. G.L.
Enough to use oil and leave drops on the driveway. Decided to tackle the project myself to save a bucnh of money. I also decided to replace the oil pump since I was under there... Its only $22 at Napa. At that price, its not worth checking the specs on the old one and trying to rebuild it.Crankshaft motorcycle oil seals.

Well to start, if you need the room, jack the truck up and support it on jack stands and all that safety stuff. I suggest laying a large piece of cardboard under the engine to save your driveway/garage floor. Drain the oil and then replace the oil pan drain bolt. REMOVE THE OIL DIPSTICK!!

First step is to remove the transmission to motor support struts.After 130,000 miles I developed an oil leak from the ream main seal.
You may need to loosen the bearing caps immediately in front of the rear one to help relieve the pressure from the crank on the seal. I had to loosen the two caps closest to the rear main. If you do this, you need to retorque ALL the caps when you are done.Crankshaft motorcycle oil seals.

Installation is the reverse of removal. Reinstall the main cap, after applying a drop of loctite on either side of the cap surface, between the bearings and seal. Also apply some RTV to the notches where the oil pan gasket fits. Wipe the crank surface and lightly oil the parts afterwards (you want good lube/oil in there not the any dirty stuff). If you loosened other caps, start at the center and torque them all, working outwards, in three steps to spec (85 lb-ft for me). Install the primed oil pump, making sure the driveshaft is correctly aligned. Torque to spec (30 lb-ft for me). Apply RTV to the corners where the main cap contacts the block and where the front of the pan hits the timing cover. Using gasket adhesive, install a new gasket on the oil pan, if you didn't raise the engine. If you raised the engine, install the gasket to the block. Install the oil pan. If you didn't raise the motor, it can be a pain. This part took the longest of the reassembly for me.Crankshaft motorcycle oil seals.

You may have to drop the exhaust y-pipe to make enough room to get the oil pan out. To do so, remove the 2 bolts on each clamp. If these have not been taken apart recently, you will probably need to use some penetrating lube and let it soak for awhile.

Next step, at least if you have an automatic transmission, is to remove the starter and the inpection cover on the front of the transmission housing. The starter uses a bolt on the top and a stud/nut on the bottom. The inspection cover has 3 bolts (in addition to the strut bolts and starter holding it in place).Crankshaft motorcycle oil seals.