Auto Parts garlock oil seals
Color Brilliancy.Well I’ve got the forks back together with the
Progressive Lowering Kit and the RaceTech Gold Valve Emulators inside
them, tomorrow I’ll put the fork oil in after work at the Station and
Sat AM I’ll reinstall them. A couple of items I learned doing this job.
Hopefully these tips will help someone else in the future.
1. Only one of my damper rod bolts came out with the impact gun with the 17mm fork cap still on. The other one I had a threaded rod with an 11/16th nut welded to each end to put into the head of the damper rod
down inside the upper fork tube to hold it while I used the impact gun on the 8mm damper rod bolt. This rod only needs to be 24″ long.Auto Parts garlock oil seals Color Brilliancy.
2. I also used an 11/16th by 2″ bolt with a nut welded on it to try to break the 17mm allen fork cap loose but the bolt snapped right away, luckily I had gone to Sears and bought a 17mm allen wrench the day
before or $8.99.
3. Also before you take off the front tire make sure you loosen both 17mm fork cap bolts. I only did one first so I had to put the tire back on to loosen the second one.Auto Parts garlock oil seals Color Brilliancy.
4. My 86-1100 has the air assist sleeves on the top of the forks with a connecting tube between them and a valve on one side to fill the forks with 5-10 lbs of air to firm them up. The book says to loosen one
of the fittings on the sleeve (for the air tube that runs between them) but when I did this and tried to pull one fork out at a time the tube bent and the threads on the fitting got a little messed up and I couldn’t
find a 10mm 1.0 thread tap and die to clean them up so I went down the street to my local Suzuki shop and he used a thread chase (like a file) to clean up the male fitting and then I went to my local body shop and he
used a paste to clean up the female fitting in the sleeve. Since the tube between the two sleeves is fairly rigid and the sleeves are mounted on the forks with no play the only way I can see to get the sleeves off is
to pull both forks down and out of the sleeves (there are stopper rings below them on the forks which you have to pull out also) and right out the bottom pinch nuts. I’ll do the reverse I hope to reinstall the forks.Auto Parts garlock oil seals Color Brilliancy.
5. Also when putting the upper bushing that goes underneath washer and fork seals in the top of the lower tube I used an 1-1/4 in PVC coupler to pound in the bushing with the washer on top of it. It worked
perfect. Then I used the same PVC coupler on top of the fork seal and put a length of 1-1/2 in PVC slid over the upper tube to pound on the coupler to drive the fork seal in. This also worked great. Hopefully when I put
them on I won’t have any leaks.
6. Since I used both the Progressive and RaceTech systems I couldn’t used the PVC spacers as they were that came with the Progressive lowering Kit so I had to cut 1/2″ off of them to make up for the Emulator
in the fork.
I also got a Craftsman M/C lift/jack for Christmas but the lift doesn’t match up to the Virago motor so I have to devise something to make it work. Next will be my Progressive 412 11″ shocks for the back.
That should be much easier. Once you do this it really isn’t too difficult, but I’m always afraid I’ll break something so I go real slow and ask alot of ?’s. Thanks to everyone that helped my with this.Auto Parts garlock oil seals Color Brilliancy.
1. Only one of my damper rod bolts came out with the impact gun with the 17mm fork cap still on. The other one I had a threaded rod with an 11/16th nut welded to each end to put into the head of the damper rod
down inside the upper fork tube to hold it while I used the impact gun on the 8mm damper rod bolt. This rod only needs to be 24″ long.Auto Parts garlock oil seals Color Brilliancy.
2. I also used an 11/16th by 2″ bolt with a nut welded on it to try to break the 17mm allen fork cap loose but the bolt snapped right away, luckily I had gone to Sears and bought a 17mm allen wrench the day
before or $8.99.
3. Also before you take off the front tire make sure you loosen both 17mm fork cap bolts. I only did one first so I had to put the tire back on to loosen the second one.Auto Parts garlock oil seals Color Brilliancy.
4. My 86-1100 has the air assist sleeves on the top of the forks with a connecting tube between them and a valve on one side to fill the forks with 5-10 lbs of air to firm them up. The book says to loosen one
of the fittings on the sleeve (for the air tube that runs between them) but when I did this and tried to pull one fork out at a time the tube bent and the threads on the fitting got a little messed up and I couldn’t
find a 10mm 1.0 thread tap and die to clean them up so I went down the street to my local Suzuki shop and he used a thread chase (like a file) to clean up the male fitting and then I went to my local body shop and he
used a paste to clean up the female fitting in the sleeve. Since the tube between the two sleeves is fairly rigid and the sleeves are mounted on the forks with no play the only way I can see to get the sleeves off is
to pull both forks down and out of the sleeves (there are stopper rings below them on the forks which you have to pull out also) and right out the bottom pinch nuts. I’ll do the reverse I hope to reinstall the forks.Auto Parts garlock oil seals Color Brilliancy.
5. Also when putting the upper bushing that goes underneath washer and fork seals in the top of the lower tube I used an 1-1/4 in PVC coupler to pound in the bushing with the washer on top of it. It worked
perfect. Then I used the same PVC coupler on top of the fork seal and put a length of 1-1/2 in PVC slid over the upper tube to pound on the coupler to drive the fork seal in. This also worked great. Hopefully when I put
them on I won’t have any leaks.
6. Since I used both the Progressive and RaceTech systems I couldn’t used the PVC spacers as they were that came with the Progressive lowering Kit so I had to cut 1/2″ off of them to make up for the Emulator
in the fork.
I also got a Craftsman M/C lift/jack for Christmas but the lift doesn’t match up to the Virago motor so I have to devise something to make it work. Next will be my Progressive 412 11″ shocks for the back.
That should be much easier. Once you do this it really isn’t too difficult, but I’m always afraid I’ll break something so I go real slow and ask alot of ?’s. Thanks to everyone that helped my with this.Auto Parts garlock oil seals Color Brilliancy.
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