FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.According to Auto Zone, small blocks through 1985 use a two-piece rear main seal. The seal can be difficult to remove, it could tearin that when you grab it. The seal needs to be replaced if it leaks -- the leak only gets worse, which could cause the engine to run too low on oil. Once the engine runs too low on oil, the oil pressure drops and oil does not get up into the heads. Without enough oil you will damage the engine -- sometimes, beyond reasonable repair.
Jack up the vehicle, using the floor jack. Support the vehicle with jack stands. Slide the drain pan under the oil pan drain bolt. Remove the drain bolt and allow the oil to drain. FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.Dispose of the oil in an appropriate manner. Reinstall the oil drain bolt, so you don't lose it.Install the rear main bearing cap bolts. Tap the crankshaft with the lead hammer forward, then rearward, to line up the thrust surfaces. Tighten the bearing bolts to the proper specification for your year small block.
Slide the oil pan into place, then reinstall the oil pump. It is recommended that you replace the oil pan gasket, especially if it is a cork gasket. Lift the pan up and install the oil pan bolts. Tighten the bolts firmly. Lower the engine back onto the mounts and reinstall the mount through bolts and tighten them firmly.
Remove the rear main bearing cap, using the appropriate socket.FKM agricultural machinery oil seals. Pry the oil seal from the bearing cap, taking care not to scratch the cap. Drive the top half of the seal from the rear main bearing, using the brass pin punch and small hammer. Once it is out far enough, grab the end of it with the pliers and pull it the rest of the way out. Make sure you have at least an inch to grab onto, else the ends of the seal will just fray, and you won't be able to pull it out. The seal fits tightly in the bearing, so you will need to use some muscle to pull it out.
Clean the rear main bearing cap and crankshaft with a non-abrasive cleaner and shop rags.
Make an oil seal installation tool from the 0.004-inch shim stock by shaping the end to ?-inch long by 1/64-inch wide. Coat the new seal with engine oil, but do not coat the ends of the seal.
Place the block of wood on the floor jack. Jack it up enough to support the engine. Remove the engine mount through bolts, using the appropriate sockets. Remove the oil pan bolts, using the appropriate socket. FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.Jack the engine up high enough so that you can lower the oil pan enough to remove the oil pump.
Remove the two bolts holding the oil pump onto the block. Put the oil pump in the pan. Remove the pan. You may have to jack up the engine a bit higher to fit the oil pan out between the frame and transmission.
Position the installation tool between the crankshaft and the seal seat in the cylinder case. Position the new seal between the crankshaft and the top of the tool, ensuring that the seal bead contacts the tip of the tool. Ensure that the seal's lip is toward the front of the engine.
Work the seal into the bearing, using the installation tool as a shoe horn to protect the seal's bead from the sharp edge of the seal seat surface in the cylinder case. Roll the seal around the crankshaft. Once the ends of the seal are flush with the engine block, remove the installation tool.
Install the lower half of the seal into the lower half of the rear main bearing cap, using the same procedure and installation tool as the previous step. Apply RTV silicone to the cap-to-case mating surfaces. Install the rear main bearing cap, keeping the sealant off the seal's mating line.FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.
Lower the vehicle off the jack stands, using the floor jack. Fill then engine with the appropriate amount of oil for your year vehicle. If you cannot find the appropriate amount, put four and one-half quarts in, start the engine and allow it to run for two minutes. Shut the engine off. Check the oil and top off the oil as needed. Start the vehicle and check for oil leaks at the rear main seal and oil pan mating surface
When you get new sprockets, you might want to consider changing gear ratios. This can really help the bike be more enjoyable to ride. Bottom line... if your bike has trouble climbing that hill, (not enough power) go one tooth smaller on the front (counter shaft) sprocket. FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.If it revs too high in top gear... just won't go fast (MPH) enough... go up one tooth on the front sprocket.
In the old days, you would take the chain off, clean it off real good in solvent with a tooth brush and put it in a pan of grease. Put the pan on the stove and melt the grease so it will penetrate the bearing area, in the links of the chain. That's still a great way to really lube that chain, however, no one today will ever take the time to do it. 90 weight gear oil works good too, but it does tend to fly off. Fortunately, we have lots of different chain sprays on the market that work great. They go on as a liquid and penetrate the chain rollers, then dry, leaving the grease behind. The drill is to spray it on good and heavy, while spinning the wheel. Try to spray the edges of the chain. Now let it set for 10-15 minutes and you are good to go. O-Ring Chain
Now, I know what you are going to say. "I've got an O-Ring Chain. The ad said I don't have to lube it !" Well, How do you define "Lube" ? The picture to the left is of an O-Ring chain I took off a customers bike. For example, if you want to lower your engine RPM at highway cruising speeds you can either get a bigger (more teeth) front sprocket or a smaller (fewer teeth) rear sprocket. If you need more power up through the gears on a dirt bike, you can get a bigger rear sprocket or a smaller front sprocket. Generally speaking, one tooth change on the front sprocket equals about a 3 1/2 tooth change on the rear sprocket. FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.It's best to keep the front sprocket as big as possible to lessen chain velocity as the chain rounds the sprocket, however it is cheaper to change the front sprocket as opposed to changing the rear.Believe it or not, this is not the worst I've seen. One customer brought in an O-Ringed chained bike(XR200R Honda) and I could barely push it into the shop. You can't tell me that's not soaking up some horse power. The moral of the tale is this. Lube your chain even if it's an O-Ring chain. Just to complicate things, make sure the lube is OK for O-Ring chains.
Chain Alignment ToolA chain must be adjusted from time to time. Both front and rear sprockets must be in line with one another, otherwise the chain will wear more on one side than the other. To help in this there are marks on each side of the swingarm. Simply match the marks. Yes, it is true the marks may be off, but I don't think they are as far off as some people say. If it bothers you that much, look down the chain and see if it going to one side or the other. Adjust it so it tracks straight. There are tools, like the one to the right, that you can use to help. When adjusted right the chain will have 1/2" or so, up and down play in the center between the sprockets. This is for bikes with normal shock travel. If you have a long shock travel bike (most dirt bikes) this play may be as much as 1 1/2". Check you shop manual for the correct amount.FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.
Testing the ChainYou can tell if the chain is worn by pushing up on the chain in the middle (between the sprockets) with one hand, while pulling on the chain at the rear sprocket. If you can pull the chain out from the sprocket much at all, say 1/4" or more, the chain is worn out. Another way is to measure the total length of the chain, when new, and replace it when it has lengthened by 2 1/2 %. You will also find that a worn chain is hard to adjust because some spots will be tight and others loose. You will want to adjust the chain slack when the chain is at its tightest. If you find that the chain has stretched so much that there is no more adjustment, simply take out two rollers. This is very GROSS but it is effective. You normally have to remove them in pairs. Sometimes, you can get a special link that adds only one roller. In other words take out two rollers and add one, to shorten the chain by one roller.Chain Rollers Chain is always measured in rollers. Now that we are talking about chain and sprocket wear, the question arises... how much is too much ? If you are removing rollers, you are already well past the "Worn Out" stage and into the "Total Garbage" stage. But, how much is too much ? To get the answer, we need to consider several things. How much horse power do we have ? If the bike has a lot of suds the danger of chain breakage goes way up. When a chain brakes, it normally shoots one end through the crankcase. This can be quite expensive. If the chain jumps off the sprocket it can lock up the rear wheel. FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.If you are going really fast, shoot, even if you are not going fast, this can be very exciting. Also painful. If you are willing to live with the breakage and lockup risk, you can run the chain and sprockets untill the teeth get bent and rounded so bad the chain jumps teeth on the sprocket. Now, this is not the best thing to do but it can be done. Is there some sort of steel chain guard in front of the sprocket ? This could protect the crankcase in the event of a chain failure. Could you make one ? Is your health insurance paid up ? All in all, the best thing to do is replace the chain and sprockets and then keep them well oiled.
Motorcycles use chain because it is a very efficient way to transfer power from the transmission to the rear wheel. In the old days rear chains were totally enclosed and Enclosed Rear Chain sometimes run in an oil bath. These chains lasted a long time. Sometimes as much as 40,000 miles or more. These days we gotta look trick so no more enclosed chain. This means you have to lube the chain a lot more often. I would say you need to lube a chain with a good chain lube a minimum of once every time you fill the gas tank. Once an hour would be better. Most of my customers lube their chains, Oh... about once a year. That might be optimistic I think. As a result most chains and sprockets are worn out in less than a thousand miles. Usually, when the chain is worn out so are the front and rear sprockets. This is because a chain does not "stretch" as it wears. It becomes elongated due to wear in the joints. FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.This changes the pitch, which in turn wears out the sprockets. I have seen some big bikes, with big 630 chain, that seem to have worn out their chains without wearing out their sprockets too much. They were all well oiled all the time, they had big, low power engines AND I haven't seen very many of them. The biggest chain tip I can give is to oil that chain all the time. You can't do it too much.
But, back to the question of how far can you push it. Bob Lane sent me this picture from England and said...FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.
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