Nak silicone rubber oil seals OEM.I pulled the bellows tube of my intake the other week for giggles and found a lake of oil in my intake. I purchased a $12 air/oil separator and filter that is made for compressed air systems. I inlined it with the stock PCV system and it seems to be doing its job very well. It's catching all sorts of things that would have been entering into the intake manifold. The only downside is that it seems to be filling up rather quickly and will need to be emptied every two or three weeks. Only time will tell how this is going to work, but so far the results are good. ... Routing the catch can back to the oil pan is an option, but it would have to be sealed with a valve in order to not interfere with the operation of the normal PCV system. (genzaroff wrote: “I was thinking about using an electrically opened valve that would open the catchcan and drain it back into the oil pan when the car is off. Then the valve closes when power is detected at the fuel pump or other system that's hot with the key on.”)Nak silicone rubber oil seals OEM.
There are a couple of workarounds, this one being the best way to do it, but there is a little legality problem for those in strict emission states.
So I told the owners, who were baffled as to how a car that had just been serviced could break so fast, that in fact it was likely that the servicing was what had caused the problem! Naturally, the mechanics who did the service and oil change - and who are now looking to get an additional 6,500 Euros for the new motor and labour - are denying that the part is from the engine and saying that we must have "rolled over something." I really do not see what a person could drive over, without anyone in the van noticing anything, that would cause that kind of damage and obviously I am also upset at the responsibility for this being laid at my feet. It just seems too big of a coincidence that this is a known issue with this type of oil filter housing (especially for the 2006 model, apparently), that this occurred after an oil change which is when this exact part is tampered with, and that I found a piece of metal alloy right where we'd parked in a street that otherwise had ZERO litter. (This occurred in Switzerland where the streets are so clean you could eat off them!) Absolutely the only thing we "drove over" was a kerb at the gas station, when the other driver was at the wheel. If a massive van cannot handle driving over a kerb then it shouldn't be on the road as far as I'm concerned. Anyway, I do not believe that this is the reason for the damage. I guess it is also possible that the person who did the previous trip, to Holland from France, could have "rolled over something" (like a chainsaw perhaps) but this is also very unlikely. That driver is a mature man who has driven professionally and neither he nor the passengers reported anything.
The reason the PCV system is connected to the intake is so that the engine vacuum will pull the crankcase fumes and blowby out of the crankcase and burn it off in the motor. Disabling the PCV system will cause these fumes to collect and condense in your motor, combining with your oil and forming acids and other nasty things for your motor.Nak silicone rubber oil seals OEM.
ModMan_70 wrote: From looking in the shop manual, it seems to me that they (Dodge) needed to put in a baffle (barrier) to block large oil droplets. Sounds like the other valve cover (from the G1 SOHC) had a better system for that! Or it was in a better location. This really should have been acknowledged by Dodge. Too much oil in the intake could wreck the catalytic converter, cause gunge build up on valve stems and seats, mess up the O2 sensors, etc.
I wonder if screwing on an adapter pipe, about 1 - 1 1/2" in length, into the valve cover would help. I was thinking if the adapter pipe was preheated and bent with an angle of 30 degrees, or so, and the PCV valve on after, the adapter pipe would act like a collection chamber (note: adapter pipe would protrude upwards at approx 30 degrees out of valve cover). Then oil could drain back into the valve cover. This may eliminate the need for constant oil removal as noted in the "catch" drain system. (brywalker wrote: Problem with that is that oil still leaves the chamber in vapor form. If you get the G1 valve cover, that relocates the PCV to the rear which will pretty much eliminate the pouring. Cheaper and easier solution to a bend in the pipe which probably won't help because it trying to pour back in would be fighting the vacuum. You would need the catch solution due to the vaporized oil.)Nak silicone rubber oil seals OEM.
A compression test is often the most definitive, and can be the only way to diagnose blow-outs between cylinders. If most of your cylinders are reading 180 to 200 psi, and two cylinders are reading 25 psi, you've found your blown gasket.Start by removing the fuel pump relay, and running the engine till it dies -- assuming it will start. If not, unplug the fuel injectors, or disconnect the carburetor fuel line and drain the carburetor fuel bowl. Next remove the spark plugs. Check them as you do. If you see one or two that look suspiciously cleaner or newer than the rest, it's likely because they've been steam-cleaned by coolant going into that cylinder. This is a definite sign of a blown gasket. The same is true if one or two plugs are covered with wet oil, or oil-soaked carbon. Once you have the plugs out, screw the compression tester into the plug holes and check the pressure while an assistant cranks the engine over. Record the readings from all cylinders and compare them. You're looking for even psi readings from all the cylinders, plus or minus about 10 percent.Nak silicone rubber oil seals OEM.
What signs a blown head gasket manifest depends a lot on the engine, where the gasket has blown through and how big the blowout is. If the gasket happened to have blown through between a pair of cylinders with no water jacket between them, and the leak was small, you might not notice much apart from stumbling and misfire. If, on the other hand, the gasket blew through from the combustion chamber to an oil passage, coolant passage or both, you'll end up with leakage from any one of these to any of the others. One classic sign is white, coolant-smelling fog coming from the tailpipe. This is actually steam, the result of coolant entering one or more of the cylinders. You may also get blue or gray smoke, indicating oil in the cylinders. Black smoke that reeks of fuel indicates that one or more of the cylinders is misfiring.
This is a classic sign of a blown head gasket, but can be difficult to recognize if you don't know what you're looking for. Unless you allow the engine to sit for days, coolant in the oil won't simply pool on top of the oil in the oilpan. If that were the case, you'd see water on the dipstick above the oil line when you checked it. Most of the time, though, the water will emulsify into your oil like vinegar in a bottle of Italian salad dressing after you shake it. The tiny bubbles will cause the oil to get lighter in color and go very opaque -- this is the dreaded "chocolate milk" of head gasket failure. If your oil is cleaner because you just changed it, it will be the same color, but be very opaque and hazy. Water-tainted oil also tends to run down the dipstick in odd ways, parting, separating and beading off instead of coating the dipstick smoothly. You may also see and smell steam coming from inside the engine when you remove the oil fill cap.Nak silicone rubber oil seals OEM.
Engines are happiest when everything stays where it belongs: oil in oil passages, water in water jackets and combustion gases in the cylinders. That's the natural order of things. But a blown head gasket can result is an engine that sometimes breathes oil, lubricates itself with coolant and tries to cool itself with hot exhaust gases. Somewhere in this chaos are the exact symptoms you need to confirm the failure; you just need to know where to look.Nak silicone rubber oil seals OEM.
The old mechanic's spot-check for combustion gases in the coolant is to remove the radiator cap -- with the engine cold -- start the engine and smell the gases coming out of the radiator. Sometimes leaks like this won't become apparent until the engine heats up and the metal has expanded, so it may have to idle up to to temperature first. Exhaust gases in the coolant are often immediately visible as fizzy bubbles rising through the coolant with the engine running, and are often recognizable by smell to a trained nose. But if your nose isn't trained, or you don't want to stick your face near churning, boiling water, you can use a "block checker"-type dye tester. These kits use a special dye that turns from blue to yellow or green in the presence of combustion gases. The kit comes with a test cylinder that you fit over the radiator cap opening; if the fluid changes color after exposure to the gases from the radiator, you've got a blown head gasket, cracked head or cracked block.Nak silicone rubber oil seals OEM.
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