Gaco machinery oil seals.Now that's a WORN Sprocket "Back in 1981, 3 of us set off from England for a 2-week touring ride around mainland Europe. I was on my T150V Triumph Trident and the other 2 had Z1000 Kawasakis. Before departing, giving more thought to the fact that we would only be away from home for 2 weeks rather than the fact that we would be putting in some serious mileage, one of the guys decided that with a fairly worn rear drive chain, he would remove a link to provide more adjustment should he need it. Gaco machinery oil seals.5 days and 2500 miles later in Athens (yes, Greece!) the photograph shows the result. As you can imagine, the last 300 miles or so, were only achieved by tightening the chain to provide friction drive with what was left of the sprocket. Indeed, such was the strain on the chain, that the rollers had flats worn on them by the time we arrived at our final holiday destination. ".
The Bolted Clip type fits in grooves on the counter shaft and then twists and bolts to the sprocket with two bolts. It is easiest to remove these bolts or nuts when the chain is still on so that it will hold the sprocket. If the sprocket still turns, you may have to get someone to hold the rear brake on while you unscrew things.Gaco machinery oil seals.
Chain Breaker ToolNow we take the chain off. Spin the tire around untill you find the master link and gently pop the clip off. Even if you are replacing the chain, save the clip and put it in the tool kit you carry on the bike. You never know, but you might need it some day. If the chain is endless you will need to break it. The best way is to use a chain breaking tool. Another way, is to put a grinding wheel in a drill and grind the ends of the chain link rivets flush with the link side plate.Gaco machinery oil seals. Then knock the rivet out with a punch. Gross, but effective and cheap.
After the chain is off, remove the rear wheel. The rear sprocket is usually bolted to the rear hub. Sometimes it is bolted to a sprocket carrier, which slides into rubber cushions in the hub. Don't lose the nuts or bolts or lock washers.Gaco machinery oil seals. Often, they are of a special length or design. Now is a good time to look at any chain guides on the swing arm or chain slack adjuster rollers for wear and replace them if necessary.
Chain Holder Bolt everything back together. If the sprocket is of a dished type, make sure it goes on the right way. Put it on backwards and things wear really quick. Please don't ask how I know this... trust me, it can be done and it does wear quickly ! Don't forget to bend over the locking tabs if there are any. Sometimes it helps to have a special tool to hold the chain ends together. 530 and 630 chain master links can be a very tight fit so it helps to have a chain press to press the side plate on with. You can also use a set of vice grips of the right size. Gaco machinery oil seals.If you are using a clip type master link make sure the closed end is pointed in the direction the chain travels. Rivet links need a chain riveter. At least that's the easiest way. You can also ping the rivet end over with a punch and hammer if you back up the master link with a big sledge hammer or piece of heavy metal.
That's about it. Lube it up and you are done !
Always replace the chain and front and rear sprockets as a set. Never mix used parts with new parts. Yes, I know there may be rare exceptions to this rule (like big, well maintained, street bikes) but they are few and far between. It seems to be Ok to replace used with used because everything is well used !Gaco machinery oil seals.
Friday, April 24, 2015
FKM agricultural machinery oil seals
FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.According to Auto Zone, small blocks through 1985 use a two-piece rear main seal. The seal can be difficult to remove, it could tearin that when you grab it. The seal needs to be replaced if it leaks -- the leak only gets worse, which could cause the engine to run too low on oil. Once the engine runs too low on oil, the oil pressure drops and oil does not get up into the heads. Without enough oil you will damage the engine -- sometimes, beyond reasonable repair.
Jack up the vehicle, using the floor jack. Support the vehicle with jack stands. Slide the drain pan under the oil pan drain bolt. Remove the drain bolt and allow the oil to drain. FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.Dispose of the oil in an appropriate manner. Reinstall the oil drain bolt, so you don't lose it.Install the rear main bearing cap bolts. Tap the crankshaft with the lead hammer forward, then rearward, to line up the thrust surfaces. Tighten the bearing bolts to the proper specification for your year small block.
Slide the oil pan into place, then reinstall the oil pump. It is recommended that you replace the oil pan gasket, especially if it is a cork gasket. Lift the pan up and install the oil pan bolts. Tighten the bolts firmly. Lower the engine back onto the mounts and reinstall the mount through bolts and tighten them firmly.
Remove the rear main bearing cap, using the appropriate socket.FKM agricultural machinery oil seals. Pry the oil seal from the bearing cap, taking care not to scratch the cap. Drive the top half of the seal from the rear main bearing, using the brass pin punch and small hammer. Once it is out far enough, grab the end of it with the pliers and pull it the rest of the way out. Make sure you have at least an inch to grab onto, else the ends of the seal will just fray, and you won't be able to pull it out. The seal fits tightly in the bearing, so you will need to use some muscle to pull it out.
Clean the rear main bearing cap and crankshaft with a non-abrasive cleaner and shop rags.
Make an oil seal installation tool from the 0.004-inch shim stock by shaping the end to ?-inch long by 1/64-inch wide. Coat the new seal with engine oil, but do not coat the ends of the seal.
Place the block of wood on the floor jack. Jack it up enough to support the engine. Remove the engine mount through bolts, using the appropriate sockets. Remove the oil pan bolts, using the appropriate socket. FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.Jack the engine up high enough so that you can lower the oil pan enough to remove the oil pump.
Remove the two bolts holding the oil pump onto the block. Put the oil pump in the pan. Remove the pan. You may have to jack up the engine a bit higher to fit the oil pan out between the frame and transmission.
Position the installation tool between the crankshaft and the seal seat in the cylinder case. Position the new seal between the crankshaft and the top of the tool, ensuring that the seal bead contacts the tip of the tool. Ensure that the seal's lip is toward the front of the engine.
Work the seal into the bearing, using the installation tool as a shoe horn to protect the seal's bead from the sharp edge of the seal seat surface in the cylinder case. Roll the seal around the crankshaft. Once the ends of the seal are flush with the engine block, remove the installation tool.
Install the lower half of the seal into the lower half of the rear main bearing cap, using the same procedure and installation tool as the previous step. Apply RTV silicone to the cap-to-case mating surfaces. Install the rear main bearing cap, keeping the sealant off the seal's mating line.FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.
Lower the vehicle off the jack stands, using the floor jack. Fill then engine with the appropriate amount of oil for your year vehicle. If you cannot find the appropriate amount, put four and one-half quarts in, start the engine and allow it to run for two minutes. Shut the engine off. Check the oil and top off the oil as needed. Start the vehicle and check for oil leaks at the rear main seal and oil pan mating surface
When you get new sprockets, you might want to consider changing gear ratios. This can really help the bike be more enjoyable to ride. Bottom line... if your bike has trouble climbing that hill, (not enough power) go one tooth smaller on the front (counter shaft) sprocket. FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.If it revs too high in top gear... just won't go fast (MPH) enough... go up one tooth on the front sprocket.
In the old days, you would take the chain off, clean it off real good in solvent with a tooth brush and put it in a pan of grease. Put the pan on the stove and melt the grease so it will penetrate the bearing area, in the links of the chain. That's still a great way to really lube that chain, however, no one today will ever take the time to do it. 90 weight gear oil works good too, but it does tend to fly off. Fortunately, we have lots of different chain sprays on the market that work great. They go on as a liquid and penetrate the chain rollers, then dry, leaving the grease behind. The drill is to spray it on good and heavy, while spinning the wheel. Try to spray the edges of the chain. Now let it set for 10-15 minutes and you are good to go. O-Ring Chain
Now, I know what you are going to say. "I've got an O-Ring Chain. The ad said I don't have to lube it !" Well, How do you define "Lube" ? The picture to the left is of an O-Ring chain I took off a customers bike. For example, if you want to lower your engine RPM at highway cruising speeds you can either get a bigger (more teeth) front sprocket or a smaller (fewer teeth) rear sprocket. If you need more power up through the gears on a dirt bike, you can get a bigger rear sprocket or a smaller front sprocket. Generally speaking, one tooth change on the front sprocket equals about a 3 1/2 tooth change on the rear sprocket. FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.It's best to keep the front sprocket as big as possible to lessen chain velocity as the chain rounds the sprocket, however it is cheaper to change the front sprocket as opposed to changing the rear.Believe it or not, this is not the worst I've seen. One customer brought in an O-Ringed chained bike(XR200R Honda) and I could barely push it into the shop. You can't tell me that's not soaking up some horse power. The moral of the tale is this. Lube your chain even if it's an O-Ring chain. Just to complicate things, make sure the lube is OK for O-Ring chains.
Chain Alignment ToolA chain must be adjusted from time to time. Both front and rear sprockets must be in line with one another, otherwise the chain will wear more on one side than the other. To help in this there are marks on each side of the swingarm. Simply match the marks. Yes, it is true the marks may be off, but I don't think they are as far off as some people say. If it bothers you that much, look down the chain and see if it going to one side or the other. Adjust it so it tracks straight. There are tools, like the one to the right, that you can use to help. When adjusted right the chain will have 1/2" or so, up and down play in the center between the sprockets. This is for bikes with normal shock travel. If you have a long shock travel bike (most dirt bikes) this play may be as much as 1 1/2". Check you shop manual for the correct amount.FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.
Testing the ChainYou can tell if the chain is worn by pushing up on the chain in the middle (between the sprockets) with one hand, while pulling on the chain at the rear sprocket. If you can pull the chain out from the sprocket much at all, say 1/4" or more, the chain is worn out. Another way is to measure the total length of the chain, when new, and replace it when it has lengthened by 2 1/2 %. You will also find that a worn chain is hard to adjust because some spots will be tight and others loose. You will want to adjust the chain slack when the chain is at its tightest. If you find that the chain has stretched so much that there is no more adjustment, simply take out two rollers. This is very GROSS but it is effective. You normally have to remove them in pairs. Sometimes, you can get a special link that adds only one roller. In other words take out two rollers and add one, to shorten the chain by one roller.Chain Rollers Chain is always measured in rollers. Now that we are talking about chain and sprocket wear, the question arises... how much is too much ? If you are removing rollers, you are already well past the "Worn Out" stage and into the "Total Garbage" stage. But, how much is too much ? To get the answer, we need to consider several things. How much horse power do we have ? If the bike has a lot of suds the danger of chain breakage goes way up. When a chain brakes, it normally shoots one end through the crankcase. This can be quite expensive. If the chain jumps off the sprocket it can lock up the rear wheel. FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.If you are going really fast, shoot, even if you are not going fast, this can be very exciting. Also painful. If you are willing to live with the breakage and lockup risk, you can run the chain and sprockets untill the teeth get bent and rounded so bad the chain jumps teeth on the sprocket. Now, this is not the best thing to do but it can be done. Is there some sort of steel chain guard in front of the sprocket ? This could protect the crankcase in the event of a chain failure. Could you make one ? Is your health insurance paid up ? All in all, the best thing to do is replace the chain and sprockets and then keep them well oiled.
Motorcycles use chain because it is a very efficient way to transfer power from the transmission to the rear wheel. In the old days rear chains were totally enclosed and Enclosed Rear Chain sometimes run in an oil bath. These chains lasted a long time. Sometimes as much as 40,000 miles or more. These days we gotta look trick so no more enclosed chain. This means you have to lube the chain a lot more often. I would say you need to lube a chain with a good chain lube a minimum of once every time you fill the gas tank. Once an hour would be better. Most of my customers lube their chains, Oh... about once a year. That might be optimistic I think. As a result most chains and sprockets are worn out in less than a thousand miles. Usually, when the chain is worn out so are the front and rear sprockets. This is because a chain does not "stretch" as it wears. It becomes elongated due to wear in the joints. FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.This changes the pitch, which in turn wears out the sprockets. I have seen some big bikes, with big 630 chain, that seem to have worn out their chains without wearing out their sprockets too much. They were all well oiled all the time, they had big, low power engines AND I haven't seen very many of them. The biggest chain tip I can give is to oil that chain all the time. You can't do it too much.
But, back to the question of how far can you push it. Bob Lane sent me this picture from England and said...FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.
Jack up the vehicle, using the floor jack. Support the vehicle with jack stands. Slide the drain pan under the oil pan drain bolt. Remove the drain bolt and allow the oil to drain. FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.Dispose of the oil in an appropriate manner. Reinstall the oil drain bolt, so you don't lose it.Install the rear main bearing cap bolts. Tap the crankshaft with the lead hammer forward, then rearward, to line up the thrust surfaces. Tighten the bearing bolts to the proper specification for your year small block.
Slide the oil pan into place, then reinstall the oil pump. It is recommended that you replace the oil pan gasket, especially if it is a cork gasket. Lift the pan up and install the oil pan bolts. Tighten the bolts firmly. Lower the engine back onto the mounts and reinstall the mount through bolts and tighten them firmly.
Remove the rear main bearing cap, using the appropriate socket.FKM agricultural machinery oil seals. Pry the oil seal from the bearing cap, taking care not to scratch the cap. Drive the top half of the seal from the rear main bearing, using the brass pin punch and small hammer. Once it is out far enough, grab the end of it with the pliers and pull it the rest of the way out. Make sure you have at least an inch to grab onto, else the ends of the seal will just fray, and you won't be able to pull it out. The seal fits tightly in the bearing, so you will need to use some muscle to pull it out.
Clean the rear main bearing cap and crankshaft with a non-abrasive cleaner and shop rags.
Make an oil seal installation tool from the 0.004-inch shim stock by shaping the end to ?-inch long by 1/64-inch wide. Coat the new seal with engine oil, but do not coat the ends of the seal.
Place the block of wood on the floor jack. Jack it up enough to support the engine. Remove the engine mount through bolts, using the appropriate sockets. Remove the oil pan bolts, using the appropriate socket. FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.Jack the engine up high enough so that you can lower the oil pan enough to remove the oil pump.
Remove the two bolts holding the oil pump onto the block. Put the oil pump in the pan. Remove the pan. You may have to jack up the engine a bit higher to fit the oil pan out between the frame and transmission.
Position the installation tool between the crankshaft and the seal seat in the cylinder case. Position the new seal between the crankshaft and the top of the tool, ensuring that the seal bead contacts the tip of the tool. Ensure that the seal's lip is toward the front of the engine.
Work the seal into the bearing, using the installation tool as a shoe horn to protect the seal's bead from the sharp edge of the seal seat surface in the cylinder case. Roll the seal around the crankshaft. Once the ends of the seal are flush with the engine block, remove the installation tool.
Install the lower half of the seal into the lower half of the rear main bearing cap, using the same procedure and installation tool as the previous step. Apply RTV silicone to the cap-to-case mating surfaces. Install the rear main bearing cap, keeping the sealant off the seal's mating line.FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.
Lower the vehicle off the jack stands, using the floor jack. Fill then engine with the appropriate amount of oil for your year vehicle. If you cannot find the appropriate amount, put four and one-half quarts in, start the engine and allow it to run for two minutes. Shut the engine off. Check the oil and top off the oil as needed. Start the vehicle and check for oil leaks at the rear main seal and oil pan mating surface
When you get new sprockets, you might want to consider changing gear ratios. This can really help the bike be more enjoyable to ride. Bottom line... if your bike has trouble climbing that hill, (not enough power) go one tooth smaller on the front (counter shaft) sprocket. FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.If it revs too high in top gear... just won't go fast (MPH) enough... go up one tooth on the front sprocket.
In the old days, you would take the chain off, clean it off real good in solvent with a tooth brush and put it in a pan of grease. Put the pan on the stove and melt the grease so it will penetrate the bearing area, in the links of the chain. That's still a great way to really lube that chain, however, no one today will ever take the time to do it. 90 weight gear oil works good too, but it does tend to fly off. Fortunately, we have lots of different chain sprays on the market that work great. They go on as a liquid and penetrate the chain rollers, then dry, leaving the grease behind. The drill is to spray it on good and heavy, while spinning the wheel. Try to spray the edges of the chain. Now let it set for 10-15 minutes and you are good to go. O-Ring Chain
Now, I know what you are going to say. "I've got an O-Ring Chain. The ad said I don't have to lube it !" Well, How do you define "Lube" ? The picture to the left is of an O-Ring chain I took off a customers bike. For example, if you want to lower your engine RPM at highway cruising speeds you can either get a bigger (more teeth) front sprocket or a smaller (fewer teeth) rear sprocket. If you need more power up through the gears on a dirt bike, you can get a bigger rear sprocket or a smaller front sprocket. Generally speaking, one tooth change on the front sprocket equals about a 3 1/2 tooth change on the rear sprocket. FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.It's best to keep the front sprocket as big as possible to lessen chain velocity as the chain rounds the sprocket, however it is cheaper to change the front sprocket as opposed to changing the rear.Believe it or not, this is not the worst I've seen. One customer brought in an O-Ringed chained bike(XR200R Honda) and I could barely push it into the shop. You can't tell me that's not soaking up some horse power. The moral of the tale is this. Lube your chain even if it's an O-Ring chain. Just to complicate things, make sure the lube is OK for O-Ring chains.
Chain Alignment ToolA chain must be adjusted from time to time. Both front and rear sprockets must be in line with one another, otherwise the chain will wear more on one side than the other. To help in this there are marks on each side of the swingarm. Simply match the marks. Yes, it is true the marks may be off, but I don't think they are as far off as some people say. If it bothers you that much, look down the chain and see if it going to one side or the other. Adjust it so it tracks straight. There are tools, like the one to the right, that you can use to help. When adjusted right the chain will have 1/2" or so, up and down play in the center between the sprockets. This is for bikes with normal shock travel. If you have a long shock travel bike (most dirt bikes) this play may be as much as 1 1/2". Check you shop manual for the correct amount.FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.
Testing the ChainYou can tell if the chain is worn by pushing up on the chain in the middle (between the sprockets) with one hand, while pulling on the chain at the rear sprocket. If you can pull the chain out from the sprocket much at all, say 1/4" or more, the chain is worn out. Another way is to measure the total length of the chain, when new, and replace it when it has lengthened by 2 1/2 %. You will also find that a worn chain is hard to adjust because some spots will be tight and others loose. You will want to adjust the chain slack when the chain is at its tightest. If you find that the chain has stretched so much that there is no more adjustment, simply take out two rollers. This is very GROSS but it is effective. You normally have to remove them in pairs. Sometimes, you can get a special link that adds only one roller. In other words take out two rollers and add one, to shorten the chain by one roller.Chain Rollers Chain is always measured in rollers. Now that we are talking about chain and sprocket wear, the question arises... how much is too much ? If you are removing rollers, you are already well past the "Worn Out" stage and into the "Total Garbage" stage. But, how much is too much ? To get the answer, we need to consider several things. How much horse power do we have ? If the bike has a lot of suds the danger of chain breakage goes way up. When a chain brakes, it normally shoots one end through the crankcase. This can be quite expensive. If the chain jumps off the sprocket it can lock up the rear wheel. FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.If you are going really fast, shoot, even if you are not going fast, this can be very exciting. Also painful. If you are willing to live with the breakage and lockup risk, you can run the chain and sprockets untill the teeth get bent and rounded so bad the chain jumps teeth on the sprocket. Now, this is not the best thing to do but it can be done. Is there some sort of steel chain guard in front of the sprocket ? This could protect the crankcase in the event of a chain failure. Could you make one ? Is your health insurance paid up ? All in all, the best thing to do is replace the chain and sprockets and then keep them well oiled.
Motorcycles use chain because it is a very efficient way to transfer power from the transmission to the rear wheel. In the old days rear chains were totally enclosed and Enclosed Rear Chain sometimes run in an oil bath. These chains lasted a long time. Sometimes as much as 40,000 miles or more. These days we gotta look trick so no more enclosed chain. This means you have to lube the chain a lot more often. I would say you need to lube a chain with a good chain lube a minimum of once every time you fill the gas tank. Once an hour would be better. Most of my customers lube their chains, Oh... about once a year. That might be optimistic I think. As a result most chains and sprockets are worn out in less than a thousand miles. Usually, when the chain is worn out so are the front and rear sprockets. This is because a chain does not "stretch" as it wears. It becomes elongated due to wear in the joints. FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.This changes the pitch, which in turn wears out the sprockets. I have seen some big bikes, with big 630 chain, that seem to have worn out their chains without wearing out their sprockets too much. They were all well oiled all the time, they had big, low power engines AND I haven't seen very many of them. The biggest chain tip I can give is to oil that chain all the time. You can't do it too much.
But, back to the question of how far can you push it. Bob Lane sent me this picture from England and said...FKM agricultural machinery oil seals.
STO valve stem oil seals in motorcycle
STO valve stem oil seals in motorcycle.These vital seals must keep oil inside the engine while coping with the crankshaft's rotation and heat expansion.Rear main seals come in many shapes and sizes, but all are responsible for sealing the back of an engine's crankshaft.
Once-piece Seals
One-piece seals are the best at sealing but require a specially machined crankshaft and cannot be replaced without pulling the crank.STO valve stem oil seals in motorcycle.
Many older engines used "rope" seals that resembled a piece of cord. These rope seals did a decent job of keeping oil pressure in the engine but would eventually become saturated and start to leak.
These plastic seals are an improvement over rope seals but are still prone to leakage. STO valve stem oil seals in motorcycle.These seals are often used because they do not require removal of the crankshaft to replace.
Older seals may leak due to heat shrinkage, damage and pitting, defects in the crankshaft, improper installation or clogging of the Positive Crankcase Ventilation system (PCV).
Rear main seals are located at the back of the crankshaft, at the rear of the engine block. STO valve stem oil seals in motorcycle.Many of these seals can only be installed or replaced by removing the rear crankshaft main cap.
Once-piece Seals
One-piece seals are the best at sealing but require a specially machined crankshaft and cannot be replaced without pulling the crank.STO valve stem oil seals in motorcycle.
Many older engines used "rope" seals that resembled a piece of cord. These rope seals did a decent job of keeping oil pressure in the engine but would eventually become saturated and start to leak.
These plastic seals are an improvement over rope seals but are still prone to leakage. STO valve stem oil seals in motorcycle.These seals are often used because they do not require removal of the crankshaft to replace.
Older seals may leak due to heat shrinkage, damage and pitting, defects in the crankshaft, improper installation or clogging of the Positive Crankcase Ventilation system (PCV).
Rear main seals are located at the back of the crankshaft, at the rear of the engine block. STO valve stem oil seals in motorcycle.Many of these seals can only be installed or replaced by removing the rear crankshaft main cap.
corteco valve oil seals for motorcycle
Corteco valve oil seals for motorcycle.Install the oil pan but while doing so make sure the rear main bearing cap's groove lines up with the oil pan gasket. Also pay particular attention to gasket on the front of the engine. It has built in grooves that has to sit just right. Tighten all the bolts and nuts to 12ft.lbs.
Replace the oil filter and put in 5qt of oil and watch the dip stick to top off. I learned my jeep even tough it was almost bone dry (which I left it to drain for two days while I was working on the rear end.) it did not take the full 6qts. More like 5 and 1/2 qts total to have it read "Full" on the dip stick.Corteco valve oil seals for motorcycle.
Enjoy leak free engine! No more oil spots on the driveway! Pat yourself on the back, you saved a few hundred dollars!
You'll also want to set aside several hours for this job as it is a good idea A) to make sure everything is clean and B) to give the RTV sealer used in the main cap side cavities time to cure. Despite the numerous steps below, the job is not hard to do if you just take your time.Corteco valve oil seals for motorcycle. All attempts have been made include everything needed.A good time to do the rear main seal is during an oil change as you have to drain the oil anyway.
Tools you'll need
1/2" drive ratchet, 5/8" socket for rear main cap bolts use a 6-point socket on rear main cap bolts!!!
1/4" drive ratchet, 1/2" & 7/16" socket for oil pan bolts
Torque wrench (1/2" drive, 0 to 150 lb/ft min)
Needle Nose pliers
Rubber Mallet or "soft" hammer
Rags & Acetone to clean surfaces
Small screwdriver and/or putty knife to clean off old RTV sealer
Stuff you may need
New oil screen pick up gasket
Piece of stiff sold copper wire--plastic coated is O.K.
Stuff you'll need
New Neoprene rear main seal
Black or Ultra-Black, O2 sensor safe RTV Sealer
New Oil Pan Gasket
Breaker Bar
Drain Oil, remove crossover pipe and oil pan. Depending on you car, you may or may not need to lift one side of the engine to get the pan off. Some guys have used their engine tie down to rock the engine over to one side. If you do need to jack up the engine use a block of wood (piece of 2x4) between the engine and the jack. Locate the jack at the front of the transmission pan. The three bolts at the front of the pan are smaller (10mm) than all the others. There is one bolt on the passenger side that secures a clamp that holds the tranny lines. This one can be a real pain to get off (try using an open end wrench.) There is a baffle in the oil pan and it can hang up on the oil pickup screen. Corteco valve oil seals for motorcycle.If you have trouble removing the pan, try rotating the engine to get the counterweights out of the way. Removal of the converter dust shield may also provide more clearance. As a last resort, removing the pickup tube guarantees that the pan will come off.
Note: One trick is to insert the new seal so that the mating faces of the new seal are not lined up with the mating faces of the main cap. About a 1/4" extra rotation one way is enough.
Put a thin coat of RTV sealer on the cap-to-block mating surface of the main cap and on the chamfered edge. Lube the main bearing with clean oil. Make sure the bearing is seated in the cap. If needed push the bearing into the cap and make sure the tang is engaged in the slot in the cap. Install the cap back in the block. You'll be able to push it up about 95% of the way by hand. Corteco valve oil seals for motorcycle.Then tap on the bottom of the cap with a rubber mallet to get the cap seated back onto the block. Install the main cap bolts and torque them to 25, 50, 75, then 100 lb/ft--or you can just set your torque wrench to 100 lb/ft and turn the bolts a 1/2 turn or so at a time till you reach 100.
The side cavities need to be filled full of RTV sealer.
Reinstall oil pan and crossover pipe. Apply a smear coat of RTV to the seams where the main cap meets the bottom of the block--where the oil pan bolts on. You can also put a smear coat where the front cover mates to the block. If your using a rubber (stock) oil pan gasket it is going to be tricky getting the pan up and in place without the gasket moving all over the place! If you can get a cork gasket you'll be better off! Don't be afraid to use a few dabs (just don't use globs!) of RTV to stick the gasket to the pan. Install all oil pan bolts loosely (to make sure they all go in straight) and then tighten to 96 inch/lbs (or 8 ft/lbs.)
Fill her up with oil and a fresh filter. If you removed the oil pick up screen, disconnect the power to the computer and crank the engine over to make sure you are getting oil pressure. (If you are having trouble building oil pressure, remove the spark plugs and turn over the motor. It will spin much faster without the compression load dragging it down.) Start the engine and keep an eye out for leaks for the next few days. Corteco valve oil seals for motorcycle.
Inspect the oil pickup screen. You may find your old rear main seal on the bottom of the screen!!! *IF* the screen looks like it needs cleaning or is all clogged up, remove it and clean it. REPLACE the gasket that goes between the block and pick up. Apply loctite thread sealer to the oil pump pickup bolts. These bolts are prone to working lose. If they do, you will lose oil pressure and your engine soon after!!! Factory torque spec is 96 inch/lbs (or 8 ft/lbs.)
The torque spec for the rear main cap bolts is 100 lb/ft. It is helpful to have a breaker bar to get these bolts loose. Once loose, the bearing cap is more than likely going to stay "stuck" in place. The side cavities of the cap are filled with RTV sealer. One trick is to loosen both main cap bolts completely and pull them about 1/2 way out of the cap. You can then use them as "handles" to wiggle the cap front to back to get it loose. You may also need to pry against the crank flange and the back side of the cap to get it loose. Corteco valve oil seals for motorcycle.Keep working at it...that old RTV can be tough to break loose! You can also run a very small screwdriver up the cavities to break loose the RTV. DO NOT DROP THE CAP! The lower half of you rear MAIN BEARING will be in the cap. Don't get any dirt on the bearing. The crankshaft journal will also be exposed with the cap off. Take care not to nick or scratch it-- there should be no need to even touch it.
Move the main cap to a work bench. This can be as much fun as getting the pan off! RTV has a viscosity of about 200 weight! (Do not use the rubber inserts that come with the new seal; just use RTV sealer.) Make sure you start with a new tube of sealer. Cut the tube so it will fit into the side cavities (one notch down on a new cone tip.) One trick is to slide a flat washer over the tube tip and use it to have something to push against as you squeeze the cavities full. Stick the tip in and squeeze away! Keep filling the cavities until you see it squirt out the sides of the main cap. Corteco valve oil seals for motorcycle.Stick a piece of wet wire into the cavities and remove. This is done to break any air pockets and provide the moisture needed to cure the RTV.The lower half of the main seal can be pulled out by hand or with a pair of needle nose pliers. ALL of the old RTV sealer needs to be removed from the side cavities and sides of the main cap. Lube one half of the new main seal and slide it into the groove in the main cap. The split part of the lip on the new seal faces the front of the engine. The package should show the correct orientation of the seal lip. Set the cap aside (covered to eliminate the possibility of airborne particles falling on it.)
Again, depending on the car, the upper half of the main seal may be easy or difficult to remove. Remember, your working around your crank journal so be careful. Try and grab the main seal with a pair of needle nose pliers and pull it out. If it comes out in one piece you're all set. If it breaks, you may need to gently slide a piece of stiff insulated solid copper wire up in to push the remaining piece(s) of seal out. Sometimes it helps to have someone turn the engine while you push on the seal to remove it.
Once the old seal is out, clean off any RTV sealer on the block. Lube up the other half of the new seal and slide it up into the block with your thumb--make sure it is facing the right way!Corteco valve oil seals for motorcycle.
Replace the oil filter and put in 5qt of oil and watch the dip stick to top off. I learned my jeep even tough it was almost bone dry (which I left it to drain for two days while I was working on the rear end.) it did not take the full 6qts. More like 5 and 1/2 qts total to have it read "Full" on the dip stick.Corteco valve oil seals for motorcycle.
Enjoy leak free engine! No more oil spots on the driveway! Pat yourself on the back, you saved a few hundred dollars!
You'll also want to set aside several hours for this job as it is a good idea A) to make sure everything is clean and B) to give the RTV sealer used in the main cap side cavities time to cure. Despite the numerous steps below, the job is not hard to do if you just take your time.Corteco valve oil seals for motorcycle. All attempts have been made include everything needed.A good time to do the rear main seal is during an oil change as you have to drain the oil anyway.
Tools you'll need
1/2" drive ratchet, 5/8" socket for rear main cap bolts use a 6-point socket on rear main cap bolts!!!
1/4" drive ratchet, 1/2" & 7/16" socket for oil pan bolts
Torque wrench (1/2" drive, 0 to 150 lb/ft min)
Needle Nose pliers
Rubber Mallet or "soft" hammer
Rags & Acetone to clean surfaces
Small screwdriver and/or putty knife to clean off old RTV sealer
Stuff you may need
New oil screen pick up gasket
Piece of stiff sold copper wire--plastic coated is O.K.
Stuff you'll need
New Neoprene rear main seal
Black or Ultra-Black, O2 sensor safe RTV Sealer
New Oil Pan Gasket
Breaker Bar
Drain Oil, remove crossover pipe and oil pan. Depending on you car, you may or may not need to lift one side of the engine to get the pan off. Some guys have used their engine tie down to rock the engine over to one side. If you do need to jack up the engine use a block of wood (piece of 2x4) between the engine and the jack. Locate the jack at the front of the transmission pan. The three bolts at the front of the pan are smaller (10mm) than all the others. There is one bolt on the passenger side that secures a clamp that holds the tranny lines. This one can be a real pain to get off (try using an open end wrench.) There is a baffle in the oil pan and it can hang up on the oil pickup screen. Corteco valve oil seals for motorcycle.If you have trouble removing the pan, try rotating the engine to get the counterweights out of the way. Removal of the converter dust shield may also provide more clearance. As a last resort, removing the pickup tube guarantees that the pan will come off.
Note: One trick is to insert the new seal so that the mating faces of the new seal are not lined up with the mating faces of the main cap. About a 1/4" extra rotation one way is enough.
Put a thin coat of RTV sealer on the cap-to-block mating surface of the main cap and on the chamfered edge. Lube the main bearing with clean oil. Make sure the bearing is seated in the cap. If needed push the bearing into the cap and make sure the tang is engaged in the slot in the cap. Install the cap back in the block. You'll be able to push it up about 95% of the way by hand. Corteco valve oil seals for motorcycle.Then tap on the bottom of the cap with a rubber mallet to get the cap seated back onto the block. Install the main cap bolts and torque them to 25, 50, 75, then 100 lb/ft--or you can just set your torque wrench to 100 lb/ft and turn the bolts a 1/2 turn or so at a time till you reach 100.
The side cavities need to be filled full of RTV sealer.
Reinstall oil pan and crossover pipe. Apply a smear coat of RTV to the seams where the main cap meets the bottom of the block--where the oil pan bolts on. You can also put a smear coat where the front cover mates to the block. If your using a rubber (stock) oil pan gasket it is going to be tricky getting the pan up and in place without the gasket moving all over the place! If you can get a cork gasket you'll be better off! Don't be afraid to use a few dabs (just don't use globs!) of RTV to stick the gasket to the pan. Install all oil pan bolts loosely (to make sure they all go in straight) and then tighten to 96 inch/lbs (or 8 ft/lbs.)
Fill her up with oil and a fresh filter. If you removed the oil pick up screen, disconnect the power to the computer and crank the engine over to make sure you are getting oil pressure. (If you are having trouble building oil pressure, remove the spark plugs and turn over the motor. It will spin much faster without the compression load dragging it down.) Start the engine and keep an eye out for leaks for the next few days. Corteco valve oil seals for motorcycle.
Inspect the oil pickup screen. You may find your old rear main seal on the bottom of the screen!!! *IF* the screen looks like it needs cleaning or is all clogged up, remove it and clean it. REPLACE the gasket that goes between the block and pick up. Apply loctite thread sealer to the oil pump pickup bolts. These bolts are prone to working lose. If they do, you will lose oil pressure and your engine soon after!!! Factory torque spec is 96 inch/lbs (or 8 ft/lbs.)
The torque spec for the rear main cap bolts is 100 lb/ft. It is helpful to have a breaker bar to get these bolts loose. Once loose, the bearing cap is more than likely going to stay "stuck" in place. The side cavities of the cap are filled with RTV sealer. One trick is to loosen both main cap bolts completely and pull them about 1/2 way out of the cap. You can then use them as "handles" to wiggle the cap front to back to get it loose. You may also need to pry against the crank flange and the back side of the cap to get it loose. Corteco valve oil seals for motorcycle.Keep working at it...that old RTV can be tough to break loose! You can also run a very small screwdriver up the cavities to break loose the RTV. DO NOT DROP THE CAP! The lower half of you rear MAIN BEARING will be in the cap. Don't get any dirt on the bearing. The crankshaft journal will also be exposed with the cap off. Take care not to nick or scratch it-- there should be no need to even touch it.
Move the main cap to a work bench. This can be as much fun as getting the pan off! RTV has a viscosity of about 200 weight! (Do not use the rubber inserts that come with the new seal; just use RTV sealer.) Make sure you start with a new tube of sealer. Cut the tube so it will fit into the side cavities (one notch down on a new cone tip.) One trick is to slide a flat washer over the tube tip and use it to have something to push against as you squeeze the cavities full. Stick the tip in and squeeze away! Keep filling the cavities until you see it squirt out the sides of the main cap. Corteco valve oil seals for motorcycle.Stick a piece of wet wire into the cavities and remove. This is done to break any air pockets and provide the moisture needed to cure the RTV.The lower half of the main seal can be pulled out by hand or with a pair of needle nose pliers. ALL of the old RTV sealer needs to be removed from the side cavities and sides of the main cap. Lube one half of the new main seal and slide it into the groove in the main cap. The split part of the lip on the new seal faces the front of the engine. The package should show the correct orientation of the seal lip. Set the cap aside (covered to eliminate the possibility of airborne particles falling on it.)
Again, depending on the car, the upper half of the main seal may be easy or difficult to remove. Remember, your working around your crank journal so be careful. Try and grab the main seal with a pair of needle nose pliers and pull it out. If it comes out in one piece you're all set. If it breaks, you may need to gently slide a piece of stiff insulated solid copper wire up in to push the remaining piece(s) of seal out. Sometimes it helps to have someone turn the engine while you push on the seal to remove it.
Once the old seal is out, clean off any RTV sealer on the block. Lube up the other half of the new seal and slide it up into the block with your thumb--make sure it is facing the right way!Corteco valve oil seals for motorcycle.
cfw truck oil seals
Cfw truck oil seals.So how do you install the upper seal without cutting it up? Fel-Pro included this nifty thin plastic that you wedge between the channel and the seal to keep it from getting cut. I saw the same seal kit that included this plastic piece, and some did not. Your mileage may vary.
Notice the orientation of the seal where the mouth of the seal opens toward the front of the vehicle. Once seal is in place, simply pull the plastic out.
Install the down pipe back on the header and install the oxygen sensor back on the down pipe and JUST hand tight it down.Cfw truck oil seals. It just needs to be on there tight enough so it won't fall back out on its own.
Start applying Chrysler Anaerobic Sealant or Loctite 518 on the rear main bearing cap mating surfaces as shown in the following picture. You DO NOT NEED MUCH. It is CRUCIAL that you DO NOT get any of this sealant on the lip of the seal! Make sure you compensate for the spread of the sealant once it is jammed between the surfaces. Put some engine oil on the bearing!!
Install the main bearing cap and torque the bolts to 80ft.lbs.Install the bearing brace and torque the bolts to 35ft.lbs.
Place the oil pan gasket on the pan.Cfw truck oil seals. I used RTV on the crucial area at the front of the block and where the rear bearing cap. I can use RTV here, because this is to seal something that is not moving against anything. Notice that I used RTV on both the top and the bottom of the oil pan gasket. *MAKE SURE YOU CLEAN THE MATING SURFACE OF THE ENGINE BLOCK FREE OF ANY SEALANT AND OILY RESIDUE! I used paint prepping solvent to clean the surface.
Anaerobic Sealant starts curing after when it is isolated from the atmosphere unlike most RTVs.Cfw truck oil seals. Some may say they got away with using RTV. They got away. I am not sure if you will. I also noticed the anaerobic sealer had different viscosity compare to the red RTV that I used on the oil pan gasket. BTW it is the factory service manual that is calling for this Loctite 518 or equivalent. There is no Loctite 518 available in the local part store which is the anaerobic sealant. You will have to get this sealant from the dealer.Cfw truck oil seals.
Notice the orientation of the seal where the mouth of the seal opens toward the front of the vehicle. Once seal is in place, simply pull the plastic out.
Install the down pipe back on the header and install the oxygen sensor back on the down pipe and JUST hand tight it down.Cfw truck oil seals. It just needs to be on there tight enough so it won't fall back out on its own.
Start applying Chrysler Anaerobic Sealant or Loctite 518 on the rear main bearing cap mating surfaces as shown in the following picture. You DO NOT NEED MUCH. It is CRUCIAL that you DO NOT get any of this sealant on the lip of the seal! Make sure you compensate for the spread of the sealant once it is jammed between the surfaces. Put some engine oil on the bearing!!
Install the main bearing cap and torque the bolts to 80ft.lbs.Install the bearing brace and torque the bolts to 35ft.lbs.
Place the oil pan gasket on the pan.Cfw truck oil seals. I used RTV on the crucial area at the front of the block and where the rear bearing cap. I can use RTV here, because this is to seal something that is not moving against anything. Notice that I used RTV on both the top and the bottom of the oil pan gasket. *MAKE SURE YOU CLEAN THE MATING SURFACE OF THE ENGINE BLOCK FREE OF ANY SEALANT AND OILY RESIDUE! I used paint prepping solvent to clean the surface.
Anaerobic Sealant starts curing after when it is isolated from the atmosphere unlike most RTVs.Cfw truck oil seals. Some may say they got away with using RTV. They got away. I am not sure if you will. I also noticed the anaerobic sealer had different viscosity compare to the red RTV that I used on the oil pan gasket. BTW it is the factory service manual that is calling for this Loctite 518 or equivalent. There is no Loctite 518 available in the local part store which is the anaerobic sealant. You will have to get this sealant from the dealer.Cfw truck oil seals.
Ars heavy truck oil seals
Ars heavy truck oil seals.Here is what they look like removed from the engine. The top half and the bottom half is shown here.
Notice how the old seal has lost its shape. Blue residue shown on the new seal is wheel bearing grease.
While you are cleaning the bearing cap, if the bearing falls out of the cap, put it back on the cap with a bit of grease to go between the two pieces. It only goes in one direction.Ars heavy truck oil seals.
Here is one crucial detail that every online write up fails to emphasize. As you push in the upper half of the seal, if you do not follow (as you push the seal) the circle channel carefully, you will cut the seal and this will guarantee the rear main seal to leak again.Ars heavy truck oil seals.
Clean the engine block where the bearing cap mates against free of any residue whatsoever! This cannot be stressed enough! Clean ANY mating surface ABSOLUTELY free of any old sealant and any type of residue!! Remember you have to do this WITHOUT damaging/scoring the metal!
This is a picture of two pieces of paper towels. Left one is used to absorb the oil from the bottom of the oil pan. The one on the right is virgin oil. There was considerable amount of solid stuck on the bottom of the oil pan.
Start cleaning the oil pan. Remove the old gasket and clean the mating surface with mild wire wheel. I cleaned the surface with paint prepping agent once again. this gets rid of any oil residues left behind.Ars heavy truck oil seals.
Here is how they should look after you are done cleaning.
Install the upper half of the seal after lubing with some engine oil. DO NOT PUT ANY SEALANT ON THIS SEAL! With the seal's lip opening towards the front of the vehicle.Ars heavy truck oil seals.
Notice how the old seal has lost its shape. Blue residue shown on the new seal is wheel bearing grease.
While you are cleaning the bearing cap, if the bearing falls out of the cap, put it back on the cap with a bit of grease to go between the two pieces. It only goes in one direction.Ars heavy truck oil seals.
Here is one crucial detail that every online write up fails to emphasize. As you push in the upper half of the seal, if you do not follow (as you push the seal) the circle channel carefully, you will cut the seal and this will guarantee the rear main seal to leak again.Ars heavy truck oil seals.
Clean the engine block where the bearing cap mates against free of any residue whatsoever! This cannot be stressed enough! Clean ANY mating surface ABSOLUTELY free of any old sealant and any type of residue!! Remember you have to do this WITHOUT damaging/scoring the metal!
This is a picture of two pieces of paper towels. Left one is used to absorb the oil from the bottom of the oil pan. The one on the right is virgin oil. There was considerable amount of solid stuck on the bottom of the oil pan.
Start cleaning the oil pan. Remove the old gasket and clean the mating surface with mild wire wheel. I cleaned the surface with paint prepping agent once again. this gets rid of any oil residues left behind.Ars heavy truck oil seals.
Here is how they should look after you are done cleaning.
Install the upper half of the seal after lubing with some engine oil. DO NOT PUT ANY SEALANT ON THIS SEAL! With the seal's lip opening towards the front of the vehicle.Ars heavy truck oil seals.
Metal motorcycle oil seals for Honda
Metal motorcycle oil seals for Honda.Some instruction that were included in the oil pan seal and the rear main seal.
Remove the oxygen sensor from the down pipe. Remove the bolts and nuts holding the down pipe to the header. You will have to move the pipe around so that you can lower the oil pan later.Metal motorcycle oil seals for Honda.
Drain the engine oil. I have SureDrain by Fram installed on the oil pan.
Remove the main bearing cap brace by removing 12 bolts. This is the long stick shown in the following picture.Metal motorcycle oil seals for Honda.
With the main bearing cap brace removed, remove the rear main bearing cap.
You will have to wiggle the cap loose front to back, not side to side.
Remove the top half of the seal by driving it out of the block. Use extreme caution not to score/dent/scratch anywhere. One small nick or scratch can cause leak and is no longer repairable. As you remove the seal, note the orientation of the seal. The seal is opening towards the front of the vehicle.Metal motorcycle oil seals for Honda.
Chrysler used different sized bolts to hold the oil pan to the engine block. I think they used 1/2 inch and another size. I took several pictures of the bolts and where they are located so I don't I have to remember them where they go back. Here they are, for your reference. Start removing them and put them in a safe place.
Once the oil pan is out of the Jeep, this is what it looks like. Your engine may look different with less brown. My Jeep is 10 years old.Metal motorcycle oil seals for Honda.
Remove the oxygen sensor from the down pipe. Remove the bolts and nuts holding the down pipe to the header. You will have to move the pipe around so that you can lower the oil pan later.Metal motorcycle oil seals for Honda.
Drain the engine oil. I have SureDrain by Fram installed on the oil pan.
Remove the main bearing cap brace by removing 12 bolts. This is the long stick shown in the following picture.Metal motorcycle oil seals for Honda.
With the main bearing cap brace removed, remove the rear main bearing cap.
You will have to wiggle the cap loose front to back, not side to side.
Remove the top half of the seal by driving it out of the block. Use extreme caution not to score/dent/scratch anywhere. One small nick or scratch can cause leak and is no longer repairable. As you remove the seal, note the orientation of the seal. The seal is opening towards the front of the vehicle.Metal motorcycle oil seals for Honda.
Chrysler used different sized bolts to hold the oil pan to the engine block. I think they used 1/2 inch and another size. I took several pictures of the bolts and where they are located so I don't I have to remember them where they go back. Here they are, for your reference. Start removing them and put them in a safe place.
Once the oil pan is out of the Jeep, this is what it looks like. Your engine may look different with less brown. My Jeep is 10 years old.Metal motorcycle oil seals for Honda.
STO car oil seals for Toyota
STO car oil seals for Toyota.The picture below shows the new rubber seals that replace the wick side seals. You have to install them with the bearing cap finger tight on the car. Then you tap those steel rods in the groove to seal the rubber against the side of the block.
Tool Aid has a Chinese finger type tool used in the removal and installation of wick type seals. The number for the basic kit is 31500. A more comprehensive kit is available as 31700. Lisle kit number 27000 is another seal replacement kit. It costs $5.50 and is called a "Sneaky Pete". The following procedure was done using the Lisle kit.STO car oil seals for Toyota.
Below is a picture of the crankshaft area with the rear bearing cap removed.
Below is a picture of the new seal temporarily placed in the side of the cap.Casey does not want to do this repair again! After the repair, he ran the car and didn't see any leaks, so maybe he won't have to!
When the time came for me to replace the leaky rear main seal on my TJ, I searched online for a decent write up. STO car oil seals for Toyota.
Anyhow, chances are, if you own 4.0L I6, you will have a rear main seal leaking on you. As shown in the picture above, the symptom is a engine oil leak between the engine and the transmission. This repair costs anywhere from $300 to $600 depending on where you get the repair done. Surprisingly, all the parts only cost around $50. Not saying it is easy to do, but this repair is not all that hard to do it yourself. With the this guide available in DDTJ, you will know exactly what you are getting yourself into as usual.STO car oil seals for Toyota.
Some of them were ok, but none of them were good enough to really show the potential DIY to see what is really going down with the repair. Besides many were lacking crucial details, explanations and/or without pictures. I decided to bring something that is more than a write up with 5 pictures. You won't be disappointed with the amount of detail shown in this write up.Here are the pictures of the parts you will need to hunt down.STO car oil seals for Toyota.
Tool Aid has a Chinese finger type tool used in the removal and installation of wick type seals. The number for the basic kit is 31500. A more comprehensive kit is available as 31700. Lisle kit number 27000 is another seal replacement kit. It costs $5.50 and is called a "Sneaky Pete". The following procedure was done using the Lisle kit.STO car oil seals for Toyota.
Below is a picture of the crankshaft area with the rear bearing cap removed.
Below is a picture of the new seal temporarily placed in the side of the cap.Casey does not want to do this repair again! After the repair, he ran the car and didn't see any leaks, so maybe he won't have to!
When the time came for me to replace the leaky rear main seal on my TJ, I searched online for a decent write up. STO car oil seals for Toyota.
Anyhow, chances are, if you own 4.0L I6, you will have a rear main seal leaking on you. As shown in the picture above, the symptom is a engine oil leak between the engine and the transmission. This repair costs anywhere from $300 to $600 depending on where you get the repair done. Surprisingly, all the parts only cost around $50. Not saying it is easy to do, but this repair is not all that hard to do it yourself. With the this guide available in DDTJ, you will know exactly what you are getting yourself into as usual.STO car oil seals for Toyota.
Some of them were ok, but none of them were good enough to really show the potential DIY to see what is really going down with the repair. Besides many were lacking crucial details, explanations and/or without pictures. I decided to bring something that is more than a write up with 5 pictures. You won't be disappointed with the amount of detail shown in this write up.Here are the pictures of the parts you will need to hunt down.STO car oil seals for Toyota.
NAK auto rubber oil seals for BMW
NAK auto rubber oil seals for BMW.Reinstall the inspection cover, the starter, the transmission to motor struts and the exhaust y-pipes, if removed. Reinstall the oil dipstick, fill with oil and check for immediate leaks. Start motor and be sure oil pressure comes up and that there are no leaks.
The original rear main seal on the engines of these now old Thunderbirds were originally made of a rope-like material. After forty plus years many of those seals are leaking whether from wear and tear or from drying out. this article describes a method for replacing the seal without removing the crankshaft and can be done without removing the engine from the car. This procedure will work on all FE series Ford big block engines. Many other engines also can be repaired in a similar manner.NAK auto rubber oil seals for BMW
First chock the wheels of the car. Then drain the oil from the engine. Next unbolt the two side engine mounts. Raise the engine using a jack. Do not use the oil pan to rise the engine. You will bend the sheet metal. You can also raise the engine using an engine crane with a carburetor mount adapter. Use bocks of wood at the engine mont points to keep the engine raised as shown below.
It takes a lot of patience and careful work to get the job done. Still, it is easier than removing the engine and crank.
Remove the bolts holding the oil pan and remove the pan. Unbolt the rear main bearing.NAK auto rubber oil seals for BMW
The picture below shows the lower rear main bearing and the seal that is the seal that was failing and causing the oil leak. It had become unraveled when the end of it was snagged while scraping the bottom of the block to clean off remnants of the old oil pan gasket in a previous procedure to replace the oil pickup screen.
Below is a picture of the rear main bering cap reinstalled with new seals. There is a little dab of clear silicone covering the ends of both side seals. When you tap in those steel pins, it pushes the rubber in about 1/16 of an inch (if that much). The instructions say to fill that little depression with silicone.NAK auto rubber oil seals for BMW
Casey Tarp, who did this repair, says this was one of the more difficult repair jobs he has attempted. (He didn't replace the upper half seal above the crank as it looked brand new.) He did the job with the car on ramps. Between the limited working room and the oil dripping down onto your face, it makes for a very unpleasant afternoon. A vehicle lift would make this procedure easier.NAK auto rubber oil seals for BMW
Especially hard was driving those steel pins in. There is barely enough room for a hammer head because of the crank shaft components, power steering cylinder, and other linkages. There's just no room to do anything. Just small very precise taps are allowed to drive those pins in.NAK auto rubber oil seals for BMW
The original rear main seal on the engines of these now old Thunderbirds were originally made of a rope-like material. After forty plus years many of those seals are leaking whether from wear and tear or from drying out. this article describes a method for replacing the seal without removing the crankshaft and can be done without removing the engine from the car. This procedure will work on all FE series Ford big block engines. Many other engines also can be repaired in a similar manner.NAK auto rubber oil seals for BMW
First chock the wheels of the car. Then drain the oil from the engine. Next unbolt the two side engine mounts. Raise the engine using a jack. Do not use the oil pan to rise the engine. You will bend the sheet metal. You can also raise the engine using an engine crane with a carburetor mount adapter. Use bocks of wood at the engine mont points to keep the engine raised as shown below.
It takes a lot of patience and careful work to get the job done. Still, it is easier than removing the engine and crank.
Remove the bolts holding the oil pan and remove the pan. Unbolt the rear main bearing.NAK auto rubber oil seals for BMW
The picture below shows the lower rear main bearing and the seal that is the seal that was failing and causing the oil leak. It had become unraveled when the end of it was snagged while scraping the bottom of the block to clean off remnants of the old oil pan gasket in a previous procedure to replace the oil pickup screen.
Below is a picture of the rear main bering cap reinstalled with new seals. There is a little dab of clear silicone covering the ends of both side seals. When you tap in those steel pins, it pushes the rubber in about 1/16 of an inch (if that much). The instructions say to fill that little depression with silicone.NAK auto rubber oil seals for BMW
Casey Tarp, who did this repair, says this was one of the more difficult repair jobs he has attempted. (He didn't replace the upper half seal above the crank as it looked brand new.) He did the job with the car on ramps. Between the limited working room and the oil dripping down onto your face, it makes for a very unpleasant afternoon. A vehicle lift would make this procedure easier.NAK auto rubber oil seals for BMW
Especially hard was driving those steel pins in. There is barely enough room for a hammer head because of the crank shaft components, power steering cylinder, and other linkages. There's just no room to do anything. Just small very precise taps are allowed to drive those pins in.NAK auto rubber oil seals for BMW
LYO auto oil seals for Audi
LYO auto oil seals for Audi.Remove the oil pan bolts. There are a lot of them and they are fine thread. This is where an air ratchet comes in mighty handy. The inspection cover is inside a lip on the pan (I found out the hard way after unbolting the pan, that is why the cover is still attached with the pan down). Using a rubber mallet or screwdriver between the block and pan, drop the oil pan. The rear will want to fall completely and the front will hang up on the crossmember. According to my Haynes manual, I should have used an engine hoist to hold the motor and removed the engine mount through bolts and lifted the engine up 3-4". This would have made removing and reinstalling the pan much easier. I did not have access to one, so it a bit harder getting the pan in and out.
Work the pan out from under the truck and be careful not to damage the oil pump pick-up tube. This is where the cardboard comes in handy. Not only is there a bit of oil still in the pan, but every part of the block starts to drip oil everywhere.LYO auto oil seals for Audi.
Clean the inspection plate and straighten any kinks and warping.If you are replacing the oil pump, remove the pick-up tube from the old oil pump, unless you will be installing a new one as well. It is simply threaded in.
Now it is time to remove the rear main bearing cap. There are 2 bolts holding it in place. It is a large cap, not like the usual style. You may need to pry it with a screwdriver. It is fairly heavy also. Use caution when removing it since the oil pump driveshaft runs through it. You want to inspect that driveshaft for wear and replace if needed. Clean the cap and remove the lower half of the main seal. Do NOT damage the main bearing! Install a half of the new seal into the slot. Lightly oil the new seal prior to installing it. The side with the paint stripe goes towards the rear of the truck.
You might as well check the teeth on the flexpate and anything else you can see in there.LYO auto oil seals for Audi.
New oil pump. Thoroughly clean the pick-up tube and thread it onto the new pump, if installing a new pump. Be sure it is properly threaded to avoid sucking in air at that location. Prime the pump by turning the pump and pouring oil in it until it comes out the other end. Do this whether or not you are replacing the pump.
Its now time to remove the oil pump. It is bolted to the main bearing cap so it needs to come off anyway. Might as well replace it since it is off. Carefully remove the 2 mounting bolts on the oil pump flange. Do NOT remove the oil pump cover (hex shape). Check to see if there a paper gasket stuck anywhere. My truck did not have a gasket. Also, there is a large column of oil above the pump, being held there by the pump. Once you break loose the first bolt, another 1-3 cups of oil starts to come out, be ready with a bucket.LYO auto oil seals for Audi.
Clean the oil pan with solvent and inspect the mounting flange for warping/damage. Mine had a bit of rust on the inner surface the was more or less removed with the solvent and wiping. Clean the gasket surface also.
To replace the upper main seal, you will probably have to use a screwdriver and small hammer to get the seal (ends marked with red arrows) to slide around the crank. It is a rigid piece, so it will follow the crank shape as it is removed. Only use the screwdriver to start the seal moving, then switch over to a needle nose pliers to pull it the rest of the way. You do not want to scratch the crank. Do not damage the oil pump driveshaft (also marked with red arrow). LIghtly oil the new seal half and with the paint stripe side facing the rear of the truck, carefully insert it into the seal hole. LYO auto oil seals for Audi.Do not cut or shave the seal on the engine block as an oil leak may result. Use your finger to apply pressure on the seal, pushing against the crank to avoid this. Push it all the way around until it is flush with the block on both ends.LYO auto oil seals for Audi.
Work the pan out from under the truck and be careful not to damage the oil pump pick-up tube. This is where the cardboard comes in handy. Not only is there a bit of oil still in the pan, but every part of the block starts to drip oil everywhere.LYO auto oil seals for Audi.
Clean the inspection plate and straighten any kinks and warping.If you are replacing the oil pump, remove the pick-up tube from the old oil pump, unless you will be installing a new one as well. It is simply threaded in.
Now it is time to remove the rear main bearing cap. There are 2 bolts holding it in place. It is a large cap, not like the usual style. You may need to pry it with a screwdriver. It is fairly heavy also. Use caution when removing it since the oil pump driveshaft runs through it. You want to inspect that driveshaft for wear and replace if needed. Clean the cap and remove the lower half of the main seal. Do NOT damage the main bearing! Install a half of the new seal into the slot. Lightly oil the new seal prior to installing it. The side with the paint stripe goes towards the rear of the truck.
You might as well check the teeth on the flexpate and anything else you can see in there.LYO auto oil seals for Audi.
New oil pump. Thoroughly clean the pick-up tube and thread it onto the new pump, if installing a new pump. Be sure it is properly threaded to avoid sucking in air at that location. Prime the pump by turning the pump and pouring oil in it until it comes out the other end. Do this whether or not you are replacing the pump.
Its now time to remove the oil pump. It is bolted to the main bearing cap so it needs to come off anyway. Might as well replace it since it is off. Carefully remove the 2 mounting bolts on the oil pump flange. Do NOT remove the oil pump cover (hex shape). Check to see if there a paper gasket stuck anywhere. My truck did not have a gasket. Also, there is a large column of oil above the pump, being held there by the pump. Once you break loose the first bolt, another 1-3 cups of oil starts to come out, be ready with a bucket.LYO auto oil seals for Audi.
Clean the oil pan with solvent and inspect the mounting flange for warping/damage. Mine had a bit of rust on the inner surface the was more or less removed with the solvent and wiping. Clean the gasket surface also.
To replace the upper main seal, you will probably have to use a screwdriver and small hammer to get the seal (ends marked with red arrows) to slide around the crank. It is a rigid piece, so it will follow the crank shape as it is removed. Only use the screwdriver to start the seal moving, then switch over to a needle nose pliers to pull it the rest of the way. You do not want to scratch the crank. Do not damage the oil pump driveshaft (also marked with red arrow). LIghtly oil the new seal half and with the paint stripe side facing the rear of the truck, carefully insert it into the seal hole. LYO auto oil seals for Audi.Do not cut or shave the seal on the engine block as an oil leak may result. Use your finger to apply pressure on the seal, pushing against the crank to avoid this. Push it all the way around until it is flush with the block on both ends.LYO auto oil seals for Audi.
Thursday, April 23, 2015
crankshaft motorcycle oil seals
Crankshaft motorcycle oil seals.Once the seal is installed in the retainer it is time to get the liquid gasket ready.I preferred to use ultra black rtv silicone gasket maker.Follow the grooves in the retainer with a bead about 3mm wide and go on the inside of all bolt holes.Should look like this.i have to use the same pic twice since i didn’t take a god pic of the seal and retainer before i put gasket maker on it.
I tried to use my seal pick set to remove the seal from the retainer and bent them all, so i had to drive the seal out of the retainer from the back side of it with a flathead screwdriver by sticking the head in the groove of the seal and striking the screwdriver with a hammer.Crankshaft motorcycle oil seals.
Next take the putty knife and scrape all the old gasket material from the block and seal retainer. The seal pick set worked real nice to get the gasket material out of the grooves on the retainer.Crankshaft motorcycle oil seals.
Once torqued reinstall your flywheel and clutch components or flexplate(auto) and get the trans or motor back in and by the time you are done with that it will be dry and you are good to go. G.L.
Enough to use oil and leave drops on the driveway. Decided to tackle the project myself to save a bucnh of money. I also decided to replace the oil pump since I was under there... Its only $22 at Napa. At that price, its not worth checking the specs on the old one and trying to rebuild it.Crankshaft motorcycle oil seals.
Well to start, if you need the room, jack the truck up and support it on jack stands and all that safety stuff. I suggest laying a large piece of cardboard under the engine to save your driveway/garage floor. Drain the oil and then replace the oil pan drain bolt. REMOVE THE OIL DIPSTICK!!
First step is to remove the transmission to motor support struts.After 130,000 miles I developed an oil leak from the ream main seal.
You may need to loosen the bearing caps immediately in front of the rear one to help relieve the pressure from the crank on the seal. I had to loosen the two caps closest to the rear main. If you do this, you need to retorque ALL the caps when you are done.Crankshaft motorcycle oil seals.
Installation is the reverse of removal. Reinstall the main cap, after applying a drop of loctite on either side of the cap surface, between the bearings and seal. Also apply some RTV to the notches where the oil pan gasket fits. Wipe the crank surface and lightly oil the parts afterwards (you want good lube/oil in there not the any dirty stuff). If you loosened other caps, start at the center and torque them all, working outwards, in three steps to spec (85 lb-ft for me). Install the primed oil pump, making sure the driveshaft is correctly aligned. Torque to spec (30 lb-ft for me). Apply RTV to the corners where the main cap contacts the block and where the front of the pan hits the timing cover. Using gasket adhesive, install a new gasket on the oil pan, if you didn't raise the engine. If you raised the engine, install the gasket to the block. Install the oil pan. If you didn't raise the motor, it can be a pain. This part took the longest of the reassembly for me.Crankshaft motorcycle oil seals.
You may have to drop the exhaust y-pipe to make enough room to get the oil pan out. To do so, remove the 2 bolts on each clamp. If these have not been taken apart recently, you will probably need to use some penetrating lube and let it soak for awhile.
Next step, at least if you have an automatic transmission, is to remove the starter and the inpection cover on the front of the transmission housing. The starter uses a bolt on the top and a stud/nut on the bottom. The inspection cover has 3 bolts (in addition to the strut bolts and starter holding it in place).Crankshaft motorcycle oil seals.
I tried to use my seal pick set to remove the seal from the retainer and bent them all, so i had to drive the seal out of the retainer from the back side of it with a flathead screwdriver by sticking the head in the groove of the seal and striking the screwdriver with a hammer.Crankshaft motorcycle oil seals.
Next take the putty knife and scrape all the old gasket material from the block and seal retainer. The seal pick set worked real nice to get the gasket material out of the grooves on the retainer.Crankshaft motorcycle oil seals.
Once torqued reinstall your flywheel and clutch components or flexplate(auto) and get the trans or motor back in and by the time you are done with that it will be dry and you are good to go. G.L.
Enough to use oil and leave drops on the driveway. Decided to tackle the project myself to save a bucnh of money. I also decided to replace the oil pump since I was under there... Its only $22 at Napa. At that price, its not worth checking the specs on the old one and trying to rebuild it.Crankshaft motorcycle oil seals.
Well to start, if you need the room, jack the truck up and support it on jack stands and all that safety stuff. I suggest laying a large piece of cardboard under the engine to save your driveway/garage floor. Drain the oil and then replace the oil pan drain bolt. REMOVE THE OIL DIPSTICK!!
First step is to remove the transmission to motor support struts.After 130,000 miles I developed an oil leak from the ream main seal.
You may need to loosen the bearing caps immediately in front of the rear one to help relieve the pressure from the crank on the seal. I had to loosen the two caps closest to the rear main. If you do this, you need to retorque ALL the caps when you are done.Crankshaft motorcycle oil seals.
Installation is the reverse of removal. Reinstall the main cap, after applying a drop of loctite on either side of the cap surface, between the bearings and seal. Also apply some RTV to the notches where the oil pan gasket fits. Wipe the crank surface and lightly oil the parts afterwards (you want good lube/oil in there not the any dirty stuff). If you loosened other caps, start at the center and torque them all, working outwards, in three steps to spec (85 lb-ft for me). Install the primed oil pump, making sure the driveshaft is correctly aligned. Torque to spec (30 lb-ft for me). Apply RTV to the corners where the main cap contacts the block and where the front of the pan hits the timing cover. Using gasket adhesive, install a new gasket on the oil pan, if you didn't raise the engine. If you raised the engine, install the gasket to the block. Install the oil pan. If you didn't raise the motor, it can be a pain. This part took the longest of the reassembly for me.Crankshaft motorcycle oil seals.
You may have to drop the exhaust y-pipe to make enough room to get the oil pan out. To do so, remove the 2 bolts on each clamp. If these have not been taken apart recently, you will probably need to use some penetrating lube and let it soak for awhile.
Next step, at least if you have an automatic transmission, is to remove the starter and the inpection cover on the front of the transmission housing. The starter uses a bolt on the top and a stud/nut on the bottom. The inspection cover has 3 bolts (in addition to the strut bolts and starter holding it in place).Crankshaft motorcycle oil seals.
compressor silicone oil seals
Compressor silicone oil seals.This article assumes you have already removed your transmission and flywheel or pressure plate.Press the retainer over the crank being careful not to get the gasket maker on anything. Take your 10mm bolts and thread them in hand tight for the moment. I will revise this once i get home from work but i think the torque spec was 60inch lbs. Torque the in a crisscross pattern.will look like this once again. for details on doing this, please refer to the clutch replacement articles.
Remove the six 10mm bolts for the seal retainer.Compressor silicone oil seals.
Once the gasket maker is applied it is now time to install the retainer back to the block.Take the retainer and put some oil on the inside lip again.
You will need a good solid putty knife to break the liquid gasket material seal from the block and retainer.(don’t use a screwdriver if at all possible so the mating surfaces aren’t damaged) Compressor silicone oil seals.
Once the seal is broke the retainer should pull right off.
You will then see this
Once all surfaces are clean take your new seal and rub motor oil on both the outer edge and inner part of the seal.Compressor silicone oil seals.
Next you will need to install the seal in the retainer. I bought a seal driver set, and the driver heads were too small for the size of the seal, so a CLEAN cut 2×4 had to work.When installing the seal be sure to put the grooved side with the cord facing downward.get the seal pused in by hane as far as you can before using the mallet and 2×4.Strike the seal untill it seats in the retainer.Compressor silicone oil seals.
Remove the six 10mm bolts for the seal retainer.Compressor silicone oil seals.
Once the gasket maker is applied it is now time to install the retainer back to the block.Take the retainer and put some oil on the inside lip again.
You will need a good solid putty knife to break the liquid gasket material seal from the block and retainer.(don’t use a screwdriver if at all possible so the mating surfaces aren’t damaged) Compressor silicone oil seals.
Once the seal is broke the retainer should pull right off.
You will then see this
Once all surfaces are clean take your new seal and rub motor oil on both the outer edge and inner part of the seal.Compressor silicone oil seals.
Next you will need to install the seal in the retainer. I bought a seal driver set, and the driver heads were too small for the size of the seal, so a CLEAN cut 2×4 had to work.When installing the seal be sure to put the grooved side with the cord facing downward.get the seal pused in by hane as far as you can before using the mallet and 2×4.Strike the seal untill it seats in the retainer.Compressor silicone oil seals.
car motorcycle oil seals
Car motorcycle oil seals.Now jack or hoist the engine off its mounts high enough to allow the removal of the oil pan. Use jack stands to safely suspend the engine. Remove the oil pan bolts. Use a sharp, stiff putty knife to pry the oil pan off the engine. Continue to jack the engine until you are able to remove the oil pan. You may have to remove the starter motor and exhaust pipes to get access to all of the oil pan bolts.
Tap out old seal with a brass punch.Car motorcycle oil seals.
Once you have the oil pan off, remove the rear main bearing cap bolts. Pry off the bearing cap with the sharp, stiff putty knife. Be careful not to scratch the crankshaft!
Cut off rope seal flush with cap.
There are three kinds of rear main seals. The one piece metal clad rubber is found on newer front wheel drive cars. The two part rope type and the two part neoprene lip type are found on most of the rear wheel drive cars; we will deal with these two part seals. Look at the old oil seal; if it's neoprene, the lip should be facing towards the front of the engine. If it's not, it would be a good reason for it to leak. The rope type seal will just appear mashed in its groove.
Use a brass punch to remove old upper seal.Car motorcycle oil seals.
To remove the upper part of the seal you will need a small brass punch. Tap one end of the seal with the punch in the direction the crankshaft normally rotates. As you tap, have someone turn the engine over by hand. This will make it easier to remove. Some seals have a wire embedded in the center of the seal. Try to tap on the wire if you can. When the seal shows up at the other end grab it with needle nose pliers. Use an insulated 8 gauge wire to push the seal while you pull it with the pliers. The wire insulation prevents the crankshaft from getting scratched.Car motorcycle oil seals.
Rope seal puller.
To install the upper seal back over the crankshaft, soap-up the side that goes in the block and oil the side that slides on the crankshaft. Make sure you do not soak rope seal in oil; damage to the graphite in the seal will occur if it's soaked in oil. Place the seal on the crankshaft and push it into the hole while rotating the crankshaft in the same direction. Make sure the lip is facing towards the front of the engine. Make sure you push the seal with a rotating motion so as to not damage it. If your car is older and uses the rope seal, you will need a "Chinese finger" type puller. Thread this puller over the crankshaft and insert the rope seal in it. Pull until the seal is in place. Trim rope seal flush with engine block.Car motorcycle oil seals.
Tap out old seal with a brass punch.Car motorcycle oil seals.
Once you have the oil pan off, remove the rear main bearing cap bolts. Pry off the bearing cap with the sharp, stiff putty knife. Be careful not to scratch the crankshaft!
Cut off rope seal flush with cap.
There are three kinds of rear main seals. The one piece metal clad rubber is found on newer front wheel drive cars. The two part rope type and the two part neoprene lip type are found on most of the rear wheel drive cars; we will deal with these two part seals. Look at the old oil seal; if it's neoprene, the lip should be facing towards the front of the engine. If it's not, it would be a good reason for it to leak. The rope type seal will just appear mashed in its groove.
Use a brass punch to remove old upper seal.Car motorcycle oil seals.
To remove the upper part of the seal you will need a small brass punch. Tap one end of the seal with the punch in the direction the crankshaft normally rotates. As you tap, have someone turn the engine over by hand. This will make it easier to remove. Some seals have a wire embedded in the center of the seal. Try to tap on the wire if you can. When the seal shows up at the other end grab it with needle nose pliers. Use an insulated 8 gauge wire to push the seal while you pull it with the pliers. The wire insulation prevents the crankshaft from getting scratched.Car motorcycle oil seals.
Rope seal puller.
To install the upper seal back over the crankshaft, soap-up the side that goes in the block and oil the side that slides on the crankshaft. Make sure you do not soak rope seal in oil; damage to the graphite in the seal will occur if it's soaked in oil. Place the seal on the crankshaft and push it into the hole while rotating the crankshaft in the same direction. Make sure the lip is facing towards the front of the engine. Make sure you push the seal with a rotating motion so as to not damage it. If your car is older and uses the rope seal, you will need a "Chinese finger" type puller. Thread this puller over the crankshaft and insert the rope seal in it. Pull until the seal is in place. Trim rope seal flush with engine block.Car motorcycle oil seals.
cap motorcycle oil seals
Cap motorcycle oil seals.Before you go to Google looking for the appropriate forum, try heading to www.gobludevil.com and checking out BlueDevil’s line of automotive stop leak products. BlueDevil Rear Main Sealer is guaranteed to stop the leak or drip from your rear main seal without the costly repair bill. BlueDevil Rear Main Sealer is not a petroleum distillate so it will not destroy or harm your seal. You can add BlueDevil rear main sealer to stop your rear main seal leak and it can safely stay in your engine oil until your next oil change, if not, Blue Devil Oil Stop Leak works great on oil leaks as well.
All these different costs go into how much a mechanic has to charge you for repair work, in addition to their time and expertise. To help keep costs down, many garages will only keep on hand certain tools, especially when it comes to large equipment. So before you bring a big job to a garage make sure they have the right tools for the job.Cap motorcycle oil seals.
In the case of a rear main seal leak, many specialty tools can be required. Often with a rear main seal leak the engine has to be removed from the vehicle to replace the seal. The rear main seal is what seals the crankshaft to the engine block and keeps engine oil from leaking out around the crank. It’s called the rear main seal because it seals the rear of the crank shaft where it bolts to the transmission. In order to properly complete this job a garage would have to have a transmission jack, engine hoist and engine stand. Many garages do not have this equipment on hand, and the ones that do often charge a premium for them.
The rear main seal in an automobile engine is located directly behind the rearmost main bearing journal of the crankshaft.Cap motorcycle oil seals.
If you are planning to replace this seal, prepare yourself for a very oily messy job. To have a dealer replace this part will cost upwards of $500; it is very time consuming and they charge by the hour. Don't despair however, you can do it yourself. In most cases you will not even have to remove the engine. This article will show you the steps you need to follow for a typical rear main seal replacement. Your total cost in parts and supplies should be about $50 or less.
Its job is to keep the oil that sloshes around in the crankcase and oil pan from escaping out the back of the engine. Symptoms of failure are usually a wet area on the rear of the oil pan, an oily wet spot on your driveway or a completely oil covered transmission; depending on the gravity of the leak. You can try to temporarily "fix" this problem by adding heavy 50 weight oil or thickeners, by adding chemicals that soften rubber and other schemes, but eventually you will have to remove and replace it.Cap motorcycle oil seals.
Clean-up the oil pan and install new gasket. Replace oil pan and torque to specifications. Jack the engine back down. Replace all other parts in reverse order of removal.
Don't forget to fill up with oil and coolant before starting the car.
Fill engine with oil, Fill engine with coolant. Start her up and check for any leaks. After a week or so, if you still have no leaks, you will take great comfort in knowing you saved a substantial amount of money, and in a job well done.Cap motorcycle oil seals.
Pressure wash, with soapy water, under the engine and transmission. The night before the fateful day, drain the oil out of the crankcase. Also drain the radiator. Yes you can let them drip all night. This will make for a cleaner job in the morning.
Remove anything that will impede the engine from being lifted a few inches. Loosen motor mounts. Remove the distributor it it's located in the back of the engine, or at least the cap and rotor. This will keep them from hitting the firewall and breaking off. Also, disconnect the radiator hoses, the fan and the fan shroud; keeps them from gouging the radiator. Unbolt the engine from the transmission if needed.Cap motorcycle oil seals.
Be safe, always use jack stands.
Press the new seal into the rear main bearing cap.
Press neoprene and rope seal on main cap with a very large socket. Make sure that the neoprene seal lip faces towards the front of the engine.
Use Blue RTV sealer on ends of rear main seal.
Use a dollop of RTV sealer on the ends of the seal before replacing the main cap. Tighten the cap bolts to 40 ft. lbs., then to about 80 ft. lbs., and lastly to 100 ft. lbs., or whatever the specifications are for your car's engine.Cap motorcycle oil seals.
All these different costs go into how much a mechanic has to charge you for repair work, in addition to their time and expertise. To help keep costs down, many garages will only keep on hand certain tools, especially when it comes to large equipment. So before you bring a big job to a garage make sure they have the right tools for the job.Cap motorcycle oil seals.
In the case of a rear main seal leak, many specialty tools can be required. Often with a rear main seal leak the engine has to be removed from the vehicle to replace the seal. The rear main seal is what seals the crankshaft to the engine block and keeps engine oil from leaking out around the crank. It’s called the rear main seal because it seals the rear of the crank shaft where it bolts to the transmission. In order to properly complete this job a garage would have to have a transmission jack, engine hoist and engine stand. Many garages do not have this equipment on hand, and the ones that do often charge a premium for them.
The rear main seal in an automobile engine is located directly behind the rearmost main bearing journal of the crankshaft.Cap motorcycle oil seals.
If you are planning to replace this seal, prepare yourself for a very oily messy job. To have a dealer replace this part will cost upwards of $500; it is very time consuming and they charge by the hour. Don't despair however, you can do it yourself. In most cases you will not even have to remove the engine. This article will show you the steps you need to follow for a typical rear main seal replacement. Your total cost in parts and supplies should be about $50 or less.
Its job is to keep the oil that sloshes around in the crankcase and oil pan from escaping out the back of the engine. Symptoms of failure are usually a wet area on the rear of the oil pan, an oily wet spot on your driveway or a completely oil covered transmission; depending on the gravity of the leak. You can try to temporarily "fix" this problem by adding heavy 50 weight oil or thickeners, by adding chemicals that soften rubber and other schemes, but eventually you will have to remove and replace it.Cap motorcycle oil seals.
Clean-up the oil pan and install new gasket. Replace oil pan and torque to specifications. Jack the engine back down. Replace all other parts in reverse order of removal.
Don't forget to fill up with oil and coolant before starting the car.
Fill engine with oil, Fill engine with coolant. Start her up and check for any leaks. After a week or so, if you still have no leaks, you will take great comfort in knowing you saved a substantial amount of money, and in a job well done.Cap motorcycle oil seals.
Pressure wash, with soapy water, under the engine and transmission. The night before the fateful day, drain the oil out of the crankcase. Also drain the radiator. Yes you can let them drip all night. This will make for a cleaner job in the morning.
Remove anything that will impede the engine from being lifted a few inches. Loosen motor mounts. Remove the distributor it it's located in the back of the engine, or at least the cap and rotor. This will keep them from hitting the firewall and breaking off. Also, disconnect the radiator hoses, the fan and the fan shroud; keeps them from gouging the radiator. Unbolt the engine from the transmission if needed.Cap motorcycle oil seals.
Be safe, always use jack stands.
Press the new seal into the rear main bearing cap.
Press neoprene and rope seal on main cap with a very large socket. Make sure that the neoprene seal lip faces towards the front of the engine.
Use Blue RTV sealer on ends of rear main seal.
Use a dollop of RTV sealer on the ends of the seal before replacing the main cap. Tighten the cap bolts to 40 ft. lbs., then to about 80 ft. lbs., and lastly to 100 ft. lbs., or whatever the specifications are for your car's engine.Cap motorcycle oil seals.
Bearing motorcycle oil seals
Bearing motorcycle oil seals.Repair costs are often difficult to accept and understand. Getting a second opinion can be frustrating and driving all over town looking for the repair shop that will give you the best price can be time consuming. Unless you do all of your own maintenance on your vehicles, you’ve probably been to a garage where you got an estimate on a repair and just had to wonder if they were ripping you off, over charging you or replacing things that really didn’t need to be fixed. Bearing motorcycle oil seals.
Costs of running an automotive repair shop:
Insurance in case you damage a customer’s car
Very expensive lifts, tools and diagnostic equipment
Hazardous material disposal
Building Rent
Stock inventory of parts for many different makes on model cars
Current repair manuals and procedures for new vehicles every year
All of these things put together make replacing a rear main seal a very expensive ordeal that often will leave your vehicle at the repair shop for days or even weeks. If you’ve discovered you need a rear main seal replacement and are trying to determine a fair price for the job, consider finding an online automotive forum specific to your make and model car, for example, http://www.camryforums.com/forum/. Often times these forums will include other people’s experiences with similar repairs to the one you are facing and can help estimate the cost.Bearing motorcycle oil seals.
Costs of running an automotive repair shop:
Insurance in case you damage a customer’s car
Very expensive lifts, tools and diagnostic equipment
Hazardous material disposal
Building Rent
Stock inventory of parts for many different makes on model cars
Current repair manuals and procedures for new vehicles every year
All of these things put together make replacing a rear main seal a very expensive ordeal that often will leave your vehicle at the repair shop for days or even weeks. If you’ve discovered you need a rear main seal replacement and are trying to determine a fair price for the job, consider finding an online automotive forum specific to your make and model car, for example, http://www.camryforums.com/forum/. Often times these forums will include other people’s experiences with similar repairs to the one you are facing and can help estimate the cost.Bearing motorcycle oil seals.
EPDM motorcycle oil seals
EPDM motorcycle oil seals.Teflon (trademark) shaft seals are becoming more popular in the newer airend designs. The single and double lip seals made from Teflon (trademark) allow the manufacturer to eliminate the airend check valve and the oil stop valve from the compressor package.
The Teflon (trademark) lip seals can not tolerate shaft runout. In addition, these seals can cut a groove in the shaft due to the abrasive nature of the tough seal material and the contaminants in the oil. Therefore, most better
airend manufacturers design removable shaft seal sleeves to take the wear.EPDM motorcycle oil seals.
I just bought my daughter a used 2000 Suzuki Grand Vitara for her “first car.” I bought it for a song from a dealer with 160,000 miles on the engine. We drove it for about 400 miles and we started/shut-off the engine approximately 10-20 times during that 400 mile period without any issues. I decided we better get the oil changed because I didn’t know when it was last done. When finished, we immediately noticed a STRONG burning oil smell. We returned to the oil change place, and they said the filter was replaced correctly and noticed no low oil, but we noticed drips on the garage floor. We’ve since put 320 more miles on it, and its about a 1/2 quart low. There is no smoke coming from the engine or exhaust. It starts, runs, and drives GREAT, but the burning oil smell is SO strong, so we know it’s leaking from SOMEWHERE. I’d really hate to have to get rid of this car or put a huge amount of money into it. Could this product work for us? Thank you for your time.EPDM motorcycle oil seals.
The rear main seal is also one of the most difficult seals on an engine to replace.
Letting your rear main seal continue to leak also can be detrimental to your vehicle’s continued operation. Besides having a low oil level, the leaking oil will be spread on the underside of your car as you drive. Not only is this messy and difficult to clean up, the oil can get onto your exhaust system causing it to burn which can be a fire hazard and cause an unpleasant odor.EPDM motorcycle oil seals.
The best way to repair a rear main seal is to recondition the seal that is currently in your vehicle. Since it seals the crank shaft and is at the rear of the motor, the transmission will need to be removed to get to the rear main seal and in most cases the crank shaft will also need to be removed. Many mechanics will not replace the rear main seal in a motor without removing the motor from the vehicle and doing at least a partial rebuild.BlueDevil Rear Main Sealer works to swell the rear main seal in your car stoping the leak. BlueDevil Rear Main Sealer can extend the life of the current seals bringing your vehicle back to safe operation and saving you money!EPDM motorcycle oil seals.
Replacing a rear main seal is a big job. Rear Main SealsYour car or truck engine has a lot of seals to keep engine oil in its proper passages and from leaking out (as you know we have an oil leak sealant for many of these problems). The rear main seal is the rear seal for the crank shaft in your engine. It’s a very important seal since it is so low on the engine a significant amount of oil can quickly leak from it allowing your engine oil levels to get dangerously low before you have time to add more oil.
You can purchase BlueDevil Rear Main Sealer directly from the manufacturer here: Transmission Sealer, or at your local parts stores:
In my experience there can be quite a discrepancy from one mechanic to another in how much a job will cost to fix the problem. There are a few reasons for that. Being a mechanic can be a tough business with a lot of overhead to cover. Consider all the costs that go into having a repair garage.EPDM motorcycle oil seals.
The Teflon (trademark) lip seals can not tolerate shaft runout. In addition, these seals can cut a groove in the shaft due to the abrasive nature of the tough seal material and the contaminants in the oil. Therefore, most better
airend manufacturers design removable shaft seal sleeves to take the wear.EPDM motorcycle oil seals.
I just bought my daughter a used 2000 Suzuki Grand Vitara for her “first car.” I bought it for a song from a dealer with 160,000 miles on the engine. We drove it for about 400 miles and we started/shut-off the engine approximately 10-20 times during that 400 mile period without any issues. I decided we better get the oil changed because I didn’t know when it was last done. When finished, we immediately noticed a STRONG burning oil smell. We returned to the oil change place, and they said the filter was replaced correctly and noticed no low oil, but we noticed drips on the garage floor. We’ve since put 320 more miles on it, and its about a 1/2 quart low. There is no smoke coming from the engine or exhaust. It starts, runs, and drives GREAT, but the burning oil smell is SO strong, so we know it’s leaking from SOMEWHERE. I’d really hate to have to get rid of this car or put a huge amount of money into it. Could this product work for us? Thank you for your time.EPDM motorcycle oil seals.
The rear main seal is also one of the most difficult seals on an engine to replace.
Letting your rear main seal continue to leak also can be detrimental to your vehicle’s continued operation. Besides having a low oil level, the leaking oil will be spread on the underside of your car as you drive. Not only is this messy and difficult to clean up, the oil can get onto your exhaust system causing it to burn which can be a fire hazard and cause an unpleasant odor.EPDM motorcycle oil seals.
The best way to repair a rear main seal is to recondition the seal that is currently in your vehicle. Since it seals the crank shaft and is at the rear of the motor, the transmission will need to be removed to get to the rear main seal and in most cases the crank shaft will also need to be removed. Many mechanics will not replace the rear main seal in a motor without removing the motor from the vehicle and doing at least a partial rebuild.BlueDevil Rear Main Sealer works to swell the rear main seal in your car stoping the leak. BlueDevil Rear Main Sealer can extend the life of the current seals bringing your vehicle back to safe operation and saving you money!EPDM motorcycle oil seals.
Replacing a rear main seal is a big job. Rear Main SealsYour car or truck engine has a lot of seals to keep engine oil in its proper passages and from leaking out (as you know we have an oil leak sealant for many of these problems). The rear main seal is the rear seal for the crank shaft in your engine. It’s a very important seal since it is so low on the engine a significant amount of oil can quickly leak from it allowing your engine oil levels to get dangerously low before you have time to add more oil.
You can purchase BlueDevil Rear Main Sealer directly from the manufacturer here: Transmission Sealer, or at your local parts stores:
In my experience there can be quite a discrepancy from one mechanic to another in how much a job will cost to fix the problem. There are a few reasons for that. Being a mechanic can be a tough business with a lot of overhead to cover. Consider all the costs that go into having a repair garage.EPDM motorcycle oil seals.
silicone motorcycle oil seals
Silicone motorcycle oil seals.When installing a Teflon (trademark) seal after replacing the seal sleeve, you can apply sealant to the outside of the seal casing and press it into the seal housing. Teflon (trademark) seals must be installed using a mandrel type
seal installation tool. This expands the seal lips as hey slide over it and the shaft seal surface.Silicone motorcycle oil seals.
Avoid putting oil on the shaft sleeve or on the Teflon (trademark) seal. These seals simply work better when they are installed dry.
When the compressor is started, a small amount of Teflon (trademark) seal material is deposited on the sleeve to ensure a prefect airtight seal. Be careful not to knick the inner lip of the shaft seal as an irregularity will cause a leak.Silicone motorcycle oil seals.
If you damage a seal during the assembly, it is best to toss it in the trash and start over with a new seal. It is never a good idea to put a compressor back in service with a questionable shaft seal.
Installation Tips, Rubber Lip Seals.If the shaft is round and running true, you can use a Loctite (trademark) sealant between the seal and the seal housing when replacing a rubber lip type shaft seal. Press the seal into the seal housing and lube it up with compressor oil.Silicone motorcycle oil seals.
Oil the shaft and , after installing new seal housing gaskets or o-rings, slide the seal and housing onto the shaft. On shafts with no reduction to the keyed drive area, a dummy key way plug may be required to avoid shaft damage. Be careful to center the seal housing while sliding it on,
ease the seal over the shaft and carefully tighten down the housing bolts in a crossing pattern.Silicone motorcycle oil seals.
seal installation tool. This expands the seal lips as hey slide over it and the shaft seal surface.Silicone motorcycle oil seals.
Avoid putting oil on the shaft sleeve or on the Teflon (trademark) seal. These seals simply work better when they are installed dry.
When the compressor is started, a small amount of Teflon (trademark) seal material is deposited on the sleeve to ensure a prefect airtight seal. Be careful not to knick the inner lip of the shaft seal as an irregularity will cause a leak.Silicone motorcycle oil seals.
If you damage a seal during the assembly, it is best to toss it in the trash and start over with a new seal. It is never a good idea to put a compressor back in service with a questionable shaft seal.
Installation Tips, Rubber Lip Seals.If the shaft is round and running true, you can use a Loctite (trademark) sealant between the seal and the seal housing when replacing a rubber lip type shaft seal. Press the seal into the seal housing and lube it up with compressor oil.Silicone motorcycle oil seals.
Oil the shaft and , after installing new seal housing gaskets or o-rings, slide the seal and housing onto the shaft. On shafts with no reduction to the keyed drive area, a dummy key way plug may be required to avoid shaft damage. Be careful to center the seal housing while sliding it on,
ease the seal over the shaft and carefully tighten down the housing bolts in a crossing pattern.Silicone motorcycle oil seals.
Rubber motorcycle oil seals
Rubber motorcycle oil seals.Excessive movement in the shaft, especially in belt driven units, is a warning that more serious damage may be occurring inside the airend. It is always better to discover this before it is too late.
Installation Tips, Mechanical Seals
The seal manufactures instructions should be followed when replacing a mechanical seal. Make sure you lube up the inside of the rubber boot before assembly.Rubber motorcycle oil seals.
Some seal manufacturers recommend using petroleum jelly while others suggest using the compressor oil or light mineral oil. The lubricant allows the rubber sealing boot to slide on the shaft during assembly and bond to the shaft shortly afterward.
A final note about mechanical seals. When replacing the seal housing, always make sure the housing and gasket line up properly with the scavenge line porting on the airend.Rubber motorcycle oil seals.
Installation Tips, Teflon (trademark) Lip Seals.It is recommended that the seal sleeve be replaced every time the Teflon (trademark) seal is replaced. Also, the sleeve may have an o-ring behind it which must be replaced.Rubber motorcycle oil seals.
A Loctite (trademark) sealant should be used to seal the sleeve to the shaft because, pressured and heated oil can weep under the sleeve even if the Teflon seal has seated perfectly.Rubber motorcycle oil seals.
Installation Tips, Mechanical Seals
The seal manufactures instructions should be followed when replacing a mechanical seal. Make sure you lube up the inside of the rubber boot before assembly.Rubber motorcycle oil seals.
Some seal manufacturers recommend using petroleum jelly while others suggest using the compressor oil or light mineral oil. The lubricant allows the rubber sealing boot to slide on the shaft during assembly and bond to the shaft shortly afterward.
A final note about mechanical seals. When replacing the seal housing, always make sure the housing and gasket line up properly with the scavenge line porting on the airend.Rubber motorcycle oil seals.
Installation Tips, Teflon (trademark) Lip Seals.It is recommended that the seal sleeve be replaced every time the Teflon (trademark) seal is replaced. Also, the sleeve may have an o-ring behind it which must be replaced.Rubber motorcycle oil seals.
A Loctite (trademark) sealant should be used to seal the sleeve to the shaft because, pressured and heated oil can weep under the sleeve even if the Teflon seal has seated perfectly.Rubber motorcycle oil seals.
NBR motorcycle oil seals
NBR motorcycle oil seals.Lip seals retain the oil inside the airend while keeping air, dust and dirt from entering along the rotating shaft when the machine is off load. Remember, when the inlet valve closes and the airend continues to rotate, a vacuum
may be pulled on the inlet end.
Some lip seals are made of a high nitrile Buna N or Viton rubber encased in steel and were designed to withstand only a few pounds of back pressure. Compressors with these lip seals rely on airend discharge valves, oil stop valves and a fast acting sump blow down valve to prevent the system
pressure from slipping back up through stopped rotors and pressurizing the drive side of the airend.NBR motorcycle oil seals.
Rubber lip seals can not withstand high pressures. A leaky seal of this type may be an indicator of a bad airend check valve or oil stop valve which will allow full discharge pressure to reach the seal.
The newer style of lip seals use Teflon (trademark). These are much stiffer and can withstand high pressure as well as synthetic compressor oils.NBR motorcycle oil seals.
In general, lip seals are more sensitive, than mechanical seals, to shaft runout and surface irregularities. A lip seal will often leak oil if the shaft has a total indicated runout of more than only a few thousands of an inch.
You can not assume that because the shaft runs true when spun by hand that it will do so at speed. Therefore, it is even more important that you check the radial or side play in the shaft before replacing a leaking lip seal.NBR motorcycle oil seals.
An out of balance coupling or drive belt pulley will cause shaft runout in an airend with a worn bearing. Tight belts will also pull the shaft away from the original center line as bearing wear increases. This puts all excess clearance on one side of the seal.
You should isolate the machine and loosen the belts or coupling. Then, push the shaft back and forth while measuring shaft deflection with a dial indicator to check for bearing wear.NBR motorcycle oil seals.
may be pulled on the inlet end.
Some lip seals are made of a high nitrile Buna N or Viton rubber encased in steel and were designed to withstand only a few pounds of back pressure. Compressors with these lip seals rely on airend discharge valves, oil stop valves and a fast acting sump blow down valve to prevent the system
pressure from slipping back up through stopped rotors and pressurizing the drive side of the airend.NBR motorcycle oil seals.
Rubber lip seals can not withstand high pressures. A leaky seal of this type may be an indicator of a bad airend check valve or oil stop valve which will allow full discharge pressure to reach the seal.
The newer style of lip seals use Teflon (trademark). These are much stiffer and can withstand high pressure as well as synthetic compressor oils.NBR motorcycle oil seals.
In general, lip seals are more sensitive, than mechanical seals, to shaft runout and surface irregularities. A lip seal will often leak oil if the shaft has a total indicated runout of more than only a few thousands of an inch.
You can not assume that because the shaft runs true when spun by hand that it will do so at speed. Therefore, it is even more important that you check the radial or side play in the shaft before replacing a leaking lip seal.NBR motorcycle oil seals.
An out of balance coupling or drive belt pulley will cause shaft runout in an airend with a worn bearing. Tight belts will also pull the shaft away from the original center line as bearing wear increases. This puts all excess clearance on one side of the seal.
You should isolate the machine and loosen the belts or coupling. Then, push the shaft back and forth while measuring shaft deflection with a dial indicator to check for bearing wear.NBR motorcycle oil seals.
metal motorcycle oil seals
Metal motorcycle oil seals.Failure to check the position of the seal on the shaft, to ensure that the seal faces are loaded correctly, will cause seal leakage.
The specifications for shaft radial runout and axial movement should be obtained from the compressor service manual before installing a shaft seal. The shaft radial runout should be checked with a dial indicator to ensure the
total indicator reading does not exceed the OEM specification. Also, the axial movement should not exceed the OEM specification.Metal motorcycle oil seals
Seal housings must be concentric and perpendicular to the rotating member. The compressor bearings should be checked or adjusted, if possible, because the seal will leak if the above mentioned tolerances are not met.
The seal must be filled with cool, clean and filtered lubricant for proper performance.Metal motorcycle oil seals
The rotating member of the shaft seal is in constant axial motion varying from .001 to .002 inch. This movement can be induced by normal runout, vibration, cavitation, coupling misalignment and bearing tolerances.
The seal uses springs and elastomers to compensate for the axial movement. If this compensation stops for any reason, solid contaminates can become trapped between the seal faces.Metal motorcycle oil seals
The trapped contamination will imbed in the soft face causing it to act as a grinding wheel and destroy the hard face. Also, contamination in the seal area can clog springs and bellows and may erode the sliding components of the mechanical seal.
The seal will not require any special consideration if the fluid is free of contamination and relatively cool. However, some fluids under varying conditions can cause damage to a seal.Metal motorcycle oil seals
The fluid should be analyzed if installation errors are eliminated as the source of seal leakage. A visual inspection is not enough because even new oil can be very dirty.
Subtle problems in this area can easily be overlooked or taken for granted which will result in a leaky seal.Metal motorcycle oil seals
The specifications for shaft radial runout and axial movement should be obtained from the compressor service manual before installing a shaft seal. The shaft radial runout should be checked with a dial indicator to ensure the
total indicator reading does not exceed the OEM specification. Also, the axial movement should not exceed the OEM specification.Metal motorcycle oil seals
Seal housings must be concentric and perpendicular to the rotating member. The compressor bearings should be checked or adjusted, if possible, because the seal will leak if the above mentioned tolerances are not met.
The seal must be filled with cool, clean and filtered lubricant for proper performance.Metal motorcycle oil seals
The rotating member of the shaft seal is in constant axial motion varying from .001 to .002 inch. This movement can be induced by normal runout, vibration, cavitation, coupling misalignment and bearing tolerances.
The seal uses springs and elastomers to compensate for the axial movement. If this compensation stops for any reason, solid contaminates can become trapped between the seal faces.Metal motorcycle oil seals
The trapped contamination will imbed in the soft face causing it to act as a grinding wheel and destroy the hard face. Also, contamination in the seal area can clog springs and bellows and may erode the sliding components of the mechanical seal.
The seal will not require any special consideration if the fluid is free of contamination and relatively cool. However, some fluids under varying conditions can cause damage to a seal.Metal motorcycle oil seals
The fluid should be analyzed if installation errors are eliminated as the source of seal leakage. A visual inspection is not enough because even new oil can be very dirty.
Subtle problems in this area can easily be overlooked or taken for granted which will result in a leaky seal.Metal motorcycle oil seals
piston silicone rubber oil seals
Piston silicone rubber oil seals.Seal faces are lapped to within two to four helium light bands (.0000232 to .0000464 inches). This critical tolerance makes a shaft seal one of the most precise pieces of equipment in your facility.
The coil springs are responsible for pushing the rotating seal up against the stationary seat, compensating for wear throughout its lifetime. However, the springs can break and cause the jingling sound. Take quick action to replace the seal before the broken components cause further damage.
Cures for the Common Leak
A seal should not leak more than three drops during the first 15 minutes after installation. This is normal during the break in period of 15 to 30 minutes. More than 3 drops probably indicates an installation error.Piston silicone rubber oil seals.
Common installation errors include failing to protect the sealing surfaces and failing to check critical dimensions and seal position. These reasons, plus contaminated lubrication, are the 3 most common causes of leaky shaft seals. The following has more details.Piston silicone rubber oil seals.
The shaft or shaft sleeve must be closely inspected for any burrs or sharp edges before positioning the seal during installation. Pay careful attention to key ways and setscrew areas.
A common mistake is to use a knife or sharp edged tool to remove an o-ring that is to reused. You can prevent cutting an o-ring by using a tooth pick.Piston silicone rubber oil seals.
The o-ring material is also important. Replacement o-rings must be made from material that is compatible with the compressor lubricant and operating conditions.The seal must be handled with care. Never drop or bump a shaft seal.Piston silicone rubber oil seals.
The coil springs are responsible for pushing the rotating seal up against the stationary seat, compensating for wear throughout its lifetime. However, the springs can break and cause the jingling sound. Take quick action to replace the seal before the broken components cause further damage.
Cures for the Common Leak
A seal should not leak more than three drops during the first 15 minutes after installation. This is normal during the break in period of 15 to 30 minutes. More than 3 drops probably indicates an installation error.Piston silicone rubber oil seals.
Common installation errors include failing to protect the sealing surfaces and failing to check critical dimensions and seal position. These reasons, plus contaminated lubrication, are the 3 most common causes of leaky shaft seals. The following has more details.Piston silicone rubber oil seals.
The shaft or shaft sleeve must be closely inspected for any burrs or sharp edges before positioning the seal during installation. Pay careful attention to key ways and setscrew areas.
A common mistake is to use a knife or sharp edged tool to remove an o-ring that is to reused. You can prevent cutting an o-ring by using a tooth pick.Piston silicone rubber oil seals.
The o-ring material is also important. Replacement o-rings must be made from material that is compatible with the compressor lubricant and operating conditions.The seal must be handled with care. Never drop or bump a shaft seal.Piston silicone rubber oil seals.
double lips silicone rubber oil seals
Double lips silicone rubber oil seals.The majority of the cost for a rear main seal replacement is in the labor involved to remove the engine and transmission from your vehicle. Often times once you’ve paid for that kind of labor, you could have afforded to replace the entire motor, or even your entire car.
The other option is to try and get a second opinion on your leaking rear main seal to see if there is a way to fix the problem without the high price tag. The guaranteed permanent solution is to add 1 8oz. Bottle of BlueDevil Rear Main Sealer to up to 8 quarts of engine oil. BlueDevil Rear Main Sealer will mix with your engine oil and recondition the current rear main seal in your car or truck. BlueDevil Products will not harm any components in your engine and can stay in the engine oil until your next regular oil change.Double lips silicone rubber oil seals.Many people operate rotary screw compressors with oil seeping from around the shaft.
The mechanical seal and lip seal are the most common types of shaft seals used on Rotary Screw compressors. This housekeeping nuisance and waste of expensive oil can be avoided with a better understanding of the shaft seal.The following provides further information specific to each of these styles.Double lips silicone rubber oil seals.
The common design has a carbon rotating element that is bonded to the shaft with a Buna N or Viton boot. This seals to a steel or a ceramic stationary seat in the housing. Compressors with total closure (air tight) air inlet valves typically used these seals because they could withstand full system pressure reversal during shutdown.
Many mechanical seals are designed as a lubricated part. This means that there is usually an oil feed line to the seal and an oil scavenge line from the seal.
The shaft seal may weep oil continuously while running if something plugs the scavenge line. This line usually attaches to a fitting on the bottom of the shaft seal housing. The fitting and the scavenge line should be checked before replacing the seal.Double lips silicone rubber oil seals.
Also, some air ends may have a check valve in the seal scavenge line or in the inlet valve area where it connects. This can cause a seal to leak if it fails.
Sometimes a leaky mechanical seal is accompanied by a jingling sound from the drive end. This is an indicator of a broken seal spring.
Most mechanical shaft seals work on the same basic principle. A contact sealing face composed of soft, sacrificial face material forms a seal against a hard material.Double lips silicone rubber oil seals.
The other option is to try and get a second opinion on your leaking rear main seal to see if there is a way to fix the problem without the high price tag. The guaranteed permanent solution is to add 1 8oz. Bottle of BlueDevil Rear Main Sealer to up to 8 quarts of engine oil. BlueDevil Rear Main Sealer will mix with your engine oil and recondition the current rear main seal in your car or truck. BlueDevil Products will not harm any components in your engine and can stay in the engine oil until your next regular oil change.Double lips silicone rubber oil seals.Many people operate rotary screw compressors with oil seeping from around the shaft.
The mechanical seal and lip seal are the most common types of shaft seals used on Rotary Screw compressors. This housekeeping nuisance and waste of expensive oil can be avoided with a better understanding of the shaft seal.The following provides further information specific to each of these styles.Double lips silicone rubber oil seals.
The common design has a carbon rotating element that is bonded to the shaft with a Buna N or Viton boot. This seals to a steel or a ceramic stationary seat in the housing. Compressors with total closure (air tight) air inlet valves typically used these seals because they could withstand full system pressure reversal during shutdown.
Many mechanical seals are designed as a lubricated part. This means that there is usually an oil feed line to the seal and an oil scavenge line from the seal.
The shaft seal may weep oil continuously while running if something plugs the scavenge line. This line usually attaches to a fitting on the bottom of the shaft seal housing. The fitting and the scavenge line should be checked before replacing the seal.Double lips silicone rubber oil seals.
Also, some air ends may have a check valve in the seal scavenge line or in the inlet valve area where it connects. This can cause a seal to leak if it fails.
Sometimes a leaky mechanical seal is accompanied by a jingling sound from the drive end. This is an indicator of a broken seal spring.
Most mechanical shaft seals work on the same basic principle. A contact sealing face composed of soft, sacrificial face material forms a seal against a hard material.Double lips silicone rubber oil seals.
gearbox silicone rubber oil seals
Gearbox silicone rubber oil seals.The intake manifold gasket can develop external engine oil leaks. The intake manifold will need to be removed and the gaskets replaced to correct this issue.
I reported to the nearest dealer (Chevy, not Buick) that the driver side intake manifold melted in one spot and appeared to be caused by a coolant leak. Looked like coolant was dripping onto part of gasket extending outward of engine. Ten hours later (called dealer at 5:45 p.m.(cost for diagnosis is $79)told that replacement is needed for both plastic elbow tubes with o rings (tension assembly piece and motor coolant flow tubes), two intake manifold gaskets, a transmission gasket, and replace both rear shocks is estimated at $1500 (nothing in writing yet).Gearbox silicone rubber oil seals.
I am a little uneasy in letting this be done as I had to have a major transmission repair right after this dealer did a transmission flush (do not recommend at all) and I found transmission fluid all over the engine compartment and the engine a few days later.Gearbox silicone rubber oil seals.
I reported to the nearest dealer (Chevy, not Buick) that the driver side intake manifold melted in one spot and appeared to be caused by a coolant leak. Looked like coolant was dripping onto part of gasket extending outward of engine. Ten hours later (called dealer at 5:45 p.m.(cost for diagnosis is $79)told that replacement is needed for both plastic elbow tubes with o rings (tension assembly piece and motor coolant flow tubes), two intake manifold gaskets, a transmission gasket, and replace both rear shocks is estimated at $1500 (nothing in writing yet).Gearbox silicone rubber oil seals.
I am a little uneasy in letting this be done as I had to have a major transmission repair right after this dealer did a transmission flush (do not recommend at all) and I found transmission fluid all over the engine compartment and the engine a few days later.
Fix it. I plan to ask the service manager if they can do better and reduce the cost from $1500. If not, I will delete the rear shocks (do them myself at a local auto craft shop) and tranny gasket (no visible leaks anywhere)and see what the revised cost estimate numbers are.Gearbox silicone rubber oil seals.
Just for some fun, one phone call to a parts place produced the following: plastic elbows are $3.99 a pair; non-plastic gasket intake manifold kit is $299.00. And, the current on engine intake manifolds are make out of plastic....and I am totally surprised to hear that and am not keen on that at all. Now, intake manifold gaskets can develop engine leaks. Assuming these gaskets are the plastic ones that were not advertised to this owner by GM.Gearbox silicone rubber oil seals.
The intake manifold gasket leaks engine oil. Replaced manifold gasket to correct.
There is also the fact that nothing of significance happened on the drive..I think I may have had exactly the situation described here happen to me and I would love some feedback from y'all! Situation: I recently drove a friend's 2006 Ford Transit a few hundred miles, a couple of days after it had just done another several hundred mile trip. The car had been serviced, including an oil change, right before both trips. As I was about to return, literally within a few minutes of turning on the engine, the car totally died as we were getting on the freeway! The oil light only came on about a minute or two before complete engine failure, and we were heading for the first exit when the car lost power and then all the other lights came on too. Long story short, there was ZERO oil in the motor and after at first telling us that the car could be repaired by putting in a new oil filter housing, the auto centre we were towed to later called and gave us the bad news that the engine was destroyed! When we returned to where we'd parked overnight, there was a massive oil slick in the street, way beyond a "leak".Gearbox silicone rubber oil seals.
I reported to the nearest dealer (Chevy, not Buick) that the driver side intake manifold melted in one spot and appeared to be caused by a coolant leak. Looked like coolant was dripping onto part of gasket extending outward of engine. Ten hours later (called dealer at 5:45 p.m.(cost for diagnosis is $79)told that replacement is needed for both plastic elbow tubes with o rings (tension assembly piece and motor coolant flow tubes), two intake manifold gaskets, a transmission gasket, and replace both rear shocks is estimated at $1500 (nothing in writing yet).Gearbox silicone rubber oil seals.
I am a little uneasy in letting this be done as I had to have a major transmission repair right after this dealer did a transmission flush (do not recommend at all) and I found transmission fluid all over the engine compartment and the engine a few days later.Gearbox silicone rubber oil seals.
I reported to the nearest dealer (Chevy, not Buick) that the driver side intake manifold melted in one spot and appeared to be caused by a coolant leak. Looked like coolant was dripping onto part of gasket extending outward of engine. Ten hours later (called dealer at 5:45 p.m.(cost for diagnosis is $79)told that replacement is needed for both plastic elbow tubes with o rings (tension assembly piece and motor coolant flow tubes), two intake manifold gaskets, a transmission gasket, and replace both rear shocks is estimated at $1500 (nothing in writing yet).Gearbox silicone rubber oil seals.
I am a little uneasy in letting this be done as I had to have a major transmission repair right after this dealer did a transmission flush (do not recommend at all) and I found transmission fluid all over the engine compartment and the engine a few days later.
Fix it. I plan to ask the service manager if they can do better and reduce the cost from $1500. If not, I will delete the rear shocks (do them myself at a local auto craft shop) and tranny gasket (no visible leaks anywhere)and see what the revised cost estimate numbers are.Gearbox silicone rubber oil seals.
Just for some fun, one phone call to a parts place produced the following: plastic elbows are $3.99 a pair; non-plastic gasket intake manifold kit is $299.00. And, the current on engine intake manifolds are make out of plastic....and I am totally surprised to hear that and am not keen on that at all. Now, intake manifold gaskets can develop engine leaks. Assuming these gaskets are the plastic ones that were not advertised to this owner by GM.Gearbox silicone rubber oil seals.
The intake manifold gasket leaks engine oil. Replaced manifold gasket to correct.
There is also the fact that nothing of significance happened on the drive..I think I may have had exactly the situation described here happen to me and I would love some feedback from y'all! Situation: I recently drove a friend's 2006 Ford Transit a few hundred miles, a couple of days after it had just done another several hundred mile trip. The car had been serviced, including an oil change, right before both trips. As I was about to return, literally within a few minutes of turning on the engine, the car totally died as we were getting on the freeway! The oil light only came on about a minute or two before complete engine failure, and we were heading for the first exit when the car lost power and then all the other lights came on too. Long story short, there was ZERO oil in the motor and after at first telling us that the car could be repaired by putting in a new oil filter housing, the auto centre we were towed to later called and gave us the bad news that the engine was destroyed! When we returned to where we'd parked overnight, there was a massive oil slick in the street, way beyond a "leak".Gearbox silicone rubber oil seals.
silicone rubber oil seals
Silicone rubber oil seals.The intake manifold gasket can develop external engine oil leaks. The intake manifold will need to be removed and the gaskets replaced to correct this issue.
Fix it. I plan to ask the service manager if they can do better and reduce the cost from $1500. If not, I will delete the rear shocks (do them myself at a local auto craft shop) and tranny gasket (no visible leaks anywhere)and see what the revised cost estimate numbers are.
My budget is $1,000 but not $1500 with all the stuff added in. I would like to buy some X-mas presents, too, for children/families who are poor and not making it in this economy...etc.Silicone rubber oil seals.
I paid $36,000 for this vehicle (new) and these problems at 114,000 miles on a maintained vehicle makes me wonder why buy American or GM or I should trade in every five years. Trade it in seems to be the answer for me.
Just for some fun, one phone call to a parts place produced the following: plastic elbows are $3.99 a pair; non-plastic gasket intake manifold kit is $299.00. And, the current on engine intake manifolds are make out of plastic....and I am totally surprised to hear that and am not keen on that at all. Now, intake manifold gaskets can develop engine leaks. Assuming these gaskets are the plastic ones that were not advertised to this owner by GM.Silicone rubber oil seals.
My budget is $1,000 but not $1500 with all the stuff added in. I would like to buy some X-mas presents, too, for children/families who are poor and not making it in this economy...etc.
I've had a great 2000 Lasabre bought with only 30,000 miles 1 owner (little old man who passed away). My mechanic (great great guy) told me these cars had poorly designed intake manifold gaskets and if I see signicant "gunk" on the bottom of the radiator cap... or signs of water in the oil, that these gaskets should be replaced with much higher quality ones. Actually, I had him replace the gaskets (It was $400 total) as a preventative measure. Not a problem at all for 150,000 miles until I totaled it in black ice one night in a multi-car pile up (The car was so well built that it took a huge impact and I walked away unhurt). I bought another one (because I needed a car quick for work etc.).Silicone rubber oil seals. I should have taken my time because at $4,800 and with 117,000 miles, it wasn't taken good care of (although it looked great and ran well). It's cost me a couple thousand in the last couple years in tires, struts, starter, etc, and now I see significant "gunk" on the underside of the radiator cap and the oil gets dirty too fast. So I need to replace it's intake manifold gasket and other stuff too. On the OTHER hand, realizing my errors in purchasing the 2nd Lasabre, and my dumb luck in finding the first one that I totalled, I spent 7 months on cars.com just "looking" at 2000 through 2005 Lasabres for sale. When I spotted one for $4,300 with 65,000 miles that had had the intake manifold gasket already replaced and other stuff too, we drove 240 miles and after driving it, bought it. Man, what a great car!! So the lessons for me were, 1. Lasabres need intake manifold gaskets replaced with much better ones as a certainty, never buy a car quickly but search for months for a well taken car of one for best price (only searching diligently will let you discover best price), and move quickly once it's found because I missed several great buys (after long searches) along the way by waiting a few days while someone smarter than me got to it first. These 2000 through 2005 Lasabres are amazing cars for the current prices. Just diligently internet search for one well before you find it AND get the intake manifold gasket replaced once you do automatically Silicone rubber oil seals.
I paid $36,000 for this vehicle (new) and these problems at 114,000 miles on a maintained vehicle makes me wonder why buy American or GM or I should trade in every five years. Trade it in seems to be the answer for me.Silicone rubber oil seals.
Fix it. I plan to ask the service manager if they can do better and reduce the cost from $1500. If not, I will delete the rear shocks (do them myself at a local auto craft shop) and tranny gasket (no visible leaks anywhere)and see what the revised cost estimate numbers are.
My budget is $1,000 but not $1500 with all the stuff added in. I would like to buy some X-mas presents, too, for children/families who are poor and not making it in this economy...etc.Silicone rubber oil seals.
I paid $36,000 for this vehicle (new) and these problems at 114,000 miles on a maintained vehicle makes me wonder why buy American or GM or I should trade in every five years. Trade it in seems to be the answer for me.
Just for some fun, one phone call to a parts place produced the following: plastic elbows are $3.99 a pair; non-plastic gasket intake manifold kit is $299.00. And, the current on engine intake manifolds are make out of plastic....and I am totally surprised to hear that and am not keen on that at all. Now, intake manifold gaskets can develop engine leaks. Assuming these gaskets are the plastic ones that were not advertised to this owner by GM.Silicone rubber oil seals.
My budget is $1,000 but not $1500 with all the stuff added in. I would like to buy some X-mas presents, too, for children/families who are poor and not making it in this economy...etc.
I've had a great 2000 Lasabre bought with only 30,000 miles 1 owner (little old man who passed away). My mechanic (great great guy) told me these cars had poorly designed intake manifold gaskets and if I see signicant "gunk" on the bottom of the radiator cap... or signs of water in the oil, that these gaskets should be replaced with much higher quality ones. Actually, I had him replace the gaskets (It was $400 total) as a preventative measure. Not a problem at all for 150,000 miles until I totaled it in black ice one night in a multi-car pile up (The car was so well built that it took a huge impact and I walked away unhurt). I bought another one (because I needed a car quick for work etc.).Silicone rubber oil seals. I should have taken my time because at $4,800 and with 117,000 miles, it wasn't taken good care of (although it looked great and ran well). It's cost me a couple thousand in the last couple years in tires, struts, starter, etc, and now I see significant "gunk" on the underside of the radiator cap and the oil gets dirty too fast. So I need to replace it's intake manifold gasket and other stuff too. On the OTHER hand, realizing my errors in purchasing the 2nd Lasabre, and my dumb luck in finding the first one that I totalled, I spent 7 months on cars.com just "looking" at 2000 through 2005 Lasabres for sale. When I spotted one for $4,300 with 65,000 miles that had had the intake manifold gasket already replaced and other stuff too, we drove 240 miles and after driving it, bought it. Man, what a great car!! So the lessons for me were, 1. Lasabres need intake manifold gaskets replaced with much better ones as a certainty, never buy a car quickly but search for months for a well taken car of one for best price (only searching diligently will let you discover best price), and move quickly once it's found because I missed several great buys (after long searches) along the way by waiting a few days while someone smarter than me got to it first. These 2000 through 2005 Lasabres are amazing cars for the current prices. Just diligently internet search for one well before you find it AND get the intake manifold gasket replaced once you do automatically Silicone rubber oil seals.
I paid $36,000 for this vehicle (new) and these problems at 114,000 miles on a maintained vehicle makes me wonder why buy American or GM or I should trade in every five years. Trade it in seems to be the answer for me.Silicone rubber oil seals.
bearing silicone rubber oil seals
Bearing silicone rubber oil seals.Before starting all these repairs I removed the plastic splash guard that extends from the front bumper to the front axle area. There were 6 bolts to take out.
After I put the car back together, I installed the oil filter, replaced the oil drain plug, and put the usual 4-1/2 quarts of oil in the engine. Then I ran the engine and checked for leaks.
When I checked the oil level, it was about 1/2 quart low. That didn't surprise me, given how much oil spilled out of the oil cooler lines. That also explains why whenever I've changed the oil in this car, the oil looks dirty right away. There is a half-quart of old oil in the oil cooler lines that doesn't drain out. Next time I change the oil I think I'll try blowing compressed air into the oil filter center connection. Maybe it will purge the oil cooler lines. I'll let y'all know.Bearing silicone rubber oil seals.
Some GMC Jimmys and Chevy Blazers have an engine oil cooler. When a mechanic is asked to fix an oil leak, he (or she) will normally degrease the engine first. Finding the source of an oil leak is much easier wihen the engine is clean.
But the oil wasn't leaking from the engine. There was a large wet oily spot just behind the radiator, on the driver's side.
I did this repair while I had the car in my garage to replace the water pump. This task was easier with the radiator fan and fan shroud removed, but it should be possible with those things left in place.Bearing silicone rubber oil seals.
Properly disposing of used solvent isn't simple. Similar to a transmission fluid cooler, the oil cooler is actually placed inside the radiator, with metal/rubber lines that carry the pressurized engine oil to and from the oil filter. Furthermore, the Blazer/Jimmy has a remote oil filter. I guess GM did this because the 4.3 liter V6 engine fits so tight there was no room for an oil filter mounted to the engine block.Bearing silicone rubber oil seals.
The 1999 Jimmy in this article had been leaking oil for several years.I just pour the mineral spirits back into an empty paint thinner jug and label it as "used". In my area, the county runs a hazardous waste disposal program where homeowners can drop off stuff like used paint thinner. Also, if I'm having a bonfire, I'll pour a little used paint thinner on the firewood before igniting it. After all, this is basically barbeque starter.
Before starting all these repairs I removed the plastic splash guard that extends from the front bumper to the front axle area. There were 6 bolts to take out.
After I put the car back together, I installed the oil filter, replaced the oil drain plug, and put the usual 4-1/2 quarts of oil in the engine. Then I ran the engine and checked for leaks.
When I checked the oil level, it was about 1/2 quart low. That didn't surprise me, given how much oil spilled out of the oil cooler lines. That also explains why whenever I've changed the oil in this car, the oil looks dirty right away. There is a half-quart of old oil in the oil cooler lines that doesn't drain out. Next time I change the oil I think I'll try blowing compressed air into the oil filter center connection. Maybe it will purge the oil cooler lines. I'll let y'all know.Bearing silicone rubber oil seals.
Some GMC Jimmys and Chevy Blazers have an engine oil cooler. When a mechanic is asked to fix an oil leak, he (or she) will normally degrease the engine first. Finding the source of an oil leak is much easier wihen the engine is clean.
But the oil wasn't leaking from the engine. There was a large wet oily spot just behind the radiator, on the driver's side.Bearing silicone rubber oil seals.
I did this repair while I had the car in my garage to replace the water pump. This task was easier with the radiator fan and fan shroud removed, but it should be possible with those things left in place.
Properly disposing of used solvent isn't simple. Similar to a transmission fluid cooler, the oil cooler is actually placed inside the radiator, with metal/rubber lines that carry the pressurized engine oil to and from the oil filter. Furthermore, the Blazer/Jimmy has a remote oil filter. I guess GM did this because the 4.3 liter V6 engine fits so tight there was no room for an oil filter mounted to the engine block.Bearing silicone rubber oil seals.
The 1999 Jimmy in this article had been leaking oil for several years.I just pour the mineral spirits back into an empty paint thinner jug and label it as "used". In my area, the county runs a hazardous waste disposal program where homeowners can drop off stuff like used paint thinner. Also, if I'm having a bonfire, I'll pour a little used paint thinner on the firewood before igniting it. After all, this is basically barbeque starter.Bearing silicone rubber oil seals.
After I put the car back together, I installed the oil filter, replaced the oil drain plug, and put the usual 4-1/2 quarts of oil in the engine. Then I ran the engine and checked for leaks.
When I checked the oil level, it was about 1/2 quart low. That didn't surprise me, given how much oil spilled out of the oil cooler lines. That also explains why whenever I've changed the oil in this car, the oil looks dirty right away. There is a half-quart of old oil in the oil cooler lines that doesn't drain out. Next time I change the oil I think I'll try blowing compressed air into the oil filter center connection. Maybe it will purge the oil cooler lines. I'll let y'all know.Bearing silicone rubber oil seals.
Some GMC Jimmys and Chevy Blazers have an engine oil cooler. When a mechanic is asked to fix an oil leak, he (or she) will normally degrease the engine first. Finding the source of an oil leak is much easier wihen the engine is clean.
But the oil wasn't leaking from the engine. There was a large wet oily spot just behind the radiator, on the driver's side.
I did this repair while I had the car in my garage to replace the water pump. This task was easier with the radiator fan and fan shroud removed, but it should be possible with those things left in place.Bearing silicone rubber oil seals.
Properly disposing of used solvent isn't simple. Similar to a transmission fluid cooler, the oil cooler is actually placed inside the radiator, with metal/rubber lines that carry the pressurized engine oil to and from the oil filter. Furthermore, the Blazer/Jimmy has a remote oil filter. I guess GM did this because the 4.3 liter V6 engine fits so tight there was no room for an oil filter mounted to the engine block.Bearing silicone rubber oil seals.
The 1999 Jimmy in this article had been leaking oil for several years.I just pour the mineral spirits back into an empty paint thinner jug and label it as "used". In my area, the county runs a hazardous waste disposal program where homeowners can drop off stuff like used paint thinner. Also, if I'm having a bonfire, I'll pour a little used paint thinner on the firewood before igniting it. After all, this is basically barbeque starter.
Before starting all these repairs I removed the plastic splash guard that extends from the front bumper to the front axle area. There were 6 bolts to take out.
After I put the car back together, I installed the oil filter, replaced the oil drain plug, and put the usual 4-1/2 quarts of oil in the engine. Then I ran the engine and checked for leaks.
When I checked the oil level, it was about 1/2 quart low. That didn't surprise me, given how much oil spilled out of the oil cooler lines. That also explains why whenever I've changed the oil in this car, the oil looks dirty right away. There is a half-quart of old oil in the oil cooler lines that doesn't drain out. Next time I change the oil I think I'll try blowing compressed air into the oil filter center connection. Maybe it will purge the oil cooler lines. I'll let y'all know.Bearing silicone rubber oil seals.
Some GMC Jimmys and Chevy Blazers have an engine oil cooler. When a mechanic is asked to fix an oil leak, he (or she) will normally degrease the engine first. Finding the source of an oil leak is much easier wihen the engine is clean.
But the oil wasn't leaking from the engine. There was a large wet oily spot just behind the radiator, on the driver's side.Bearing silicone rubber oil seals.
I did this repair while I had the car in my garage to replace the water pump. This task was easier with the radiator fan and fan shroud removed, but it should be possible with those things left in place.
Properly disposing of used solvent isn't simple. Similar to a transmission fluid cooler, the oil cooler is actually placed inside the radiator, with metal/rubber lines that carry the pressurized engine oil to and from the oil filter. Furthermore, the Blazer/Jimmy has a remote oil filter. I guess GM did this because the 4.3 liter V6 engine fits so tight there was no room for an oil filter mounted to the engine block.Bearing silicone rubber oil seals.
The 1999 Jimmy in this article had been leaking oil for several years.I just pour the mineral spirits back into an empty paint thinner jug and label it as "used". In my area, the county runs a hazardous waste disposal program where homeowners can drop off stuff like used paint thinner. Also, if I'm having a bonfire, I'll pour a little used paint thinner on the firewood before igniting it. After all, this is basically barbeque starter.Bearing silicone rubber oil seals.
LYO silicone rubber oil seals for motorcycle
LYO silicone rubber oil seals for motorcycle.The cost to change the main seal if you really want to insist would be something in the $1500 range. It would only make sense when you need to pull the transmission to replace it with a rebuit unit.
Is High mileage really nescessary? My odometer reads 101k, but the motor has 40k. The original died in 2009 (pre cat failure, common problem on 03 Alties) and since pre cats are covered for 80k, Nissan put in a 2009 2.5 motor with no miles on itLYO silicone rubber oil seals for motorcycle.
I dont think I will go to them for an oil change anymore, the place was called Sun Auto Service, that was only the 2nd time I've been there, and both times they told me my car needed major work
I usually go to a local Nissan dealership called Desert Nissan for oil changes, and they never try to rip me off like this. I had a similar situation with Big O Tires in June 2010 when I first relocated to Las Vegas from Orlando. Big O said I needed about $500 worth of work. Had Desert Nissan take a look, told me nothing was wrong
If you have occasion to remove the transmission for some other reason, then you might want to change the main seal.LYO silicone rubber oil seals for motorcycle.
When trying to decide if performing an expensive maintenance item on your vehicle is worth it, it helps to understand what your vehicle is worth both in its unrepaired state and what it would be worth after it has been repaired. To determine the unrepaired value try searching local auto listings for other “mechanic specials” or cars that are in need of repair, asking local garages and repair shops, or check with your local salvage or scrap yard on their rates for whole vehicles. Another option to consider is donating your car to charities like the Kidney Cars Program (www.donateacar.com) or Cars for Veterans (www.carsforveterans.org). The tax write off may be worth more than you think! For the repaired value you can use Kelly Blue Book (www.kbb.com), Edmonds (www.edmunds.com) or the National Auto Dealers Association (www.nada.com). I like to check the value on all three sites and find an average. If the cost to repair your vehicle is more than the difference in the unrepaired and repaired values, you may consider looking for a new vehicle and selling your current vehicle as-is.LYO silicone rubber oil seals for motorcycle.
Replacing the rear main seal can be an insurmountable job for a weekend mechanic, and can even be a challenge for a seasoned professional. Replacing a Rear Main SealIf you’ve searched around with your mechanic’s mirror and flashlight and have determined you don’t have a valve cover of valley pan leak, you may have a rear main seal leak. The rear main seal is on the rear of the engine and seals the point where the crankshaft extends out of the engine block. Even though the rear main seal is a relatively inexpensive and simple oil seal, it’s in a very difficult place to get to service. To remove the rear main seal, you must remove the transmission from the engine, remove the flywheel from the crank shaft, removed the oil pan and in most motors removed the pistons and crank shaft as well. Unless you want to get really creative and uncomfortable, this would also include removing the motor from the vehicle as well. To re install the pistons and crank shaft in an engine requires a good understanding of how a motor works to make sure the correct timing and torque settings are used. This sort of job should really be left to professionals.LYO silicone rubber oil seals for motorcycle.
Most of the time, you will discover a rear main seal leak by finding oil drips on the ground since you can’t, or at least should be able to see the rear main seal by looking up under your car. The rear main seal is sandwiched vertically between your engine block and oil pan, and is in the engine block just inboard of the flywheel. Many times if it is leaking you will find drips on your back of your oil pan or on the front transmission bell housing. First, but sure to check that the leak isn’t up higher and just dripping down the back of your motor. A leaking valve cover gasket or valley pan gasket can easily be confused for a rear main seal leak if you don’t check for a higher leak point.LYO silicone rubber oil seals for motorcycle.
Is High mileage really nescessary? My odometer reads 101k, but the motor has 40k. The original died in 2009 (pre cat failure, common problem on 03 Alties) and since pre cats are covered for 80k, Nissan put in a 2009 2.5 motor with no miles on itLYO silicone rubber oil seals for motorcycle.
I dont think I will go to them for an oil change anymore, the place was called Sun Auto Service, that was only the 2nd time I've been there, and both times they told me my car needed major work
I usually go to a local Nissan dealership called Desert Nissan for oil changes, and they never try to rip me off like this. I had a similar situation with Big O Tires in June 2010 when I first relocated to Las Vegas from Orlando. Big O said I needed about $500 worth of work. Had Desert Nissan take a look, told me nothing was wrong
If you have occasion to remove the transmission for some other reason, then you might want to change the main seal.LYO silicone rubber oil seals for motorcycle.
When trying to decide if performing an expensive maintenance item on your vehicle is worth it, it helps to understand what your vehicle is worth both in its unrepaired state and what it would be worth after it has been repaired. To determine the unrepaired value try searching local auto listings for other “mechanic specials” or cars that are in need of repair, asking local garages and repair shops, or check with your local salvage or scrap yard on their rates for whole vehicles. Another option to consider is donating your car to charities like the Kidney Cars Program (www.donateacar.com) or Cars for Veterans (www.carsforveterans.org). The tax write off may be worth more than you think! For the repaired value you can use Kelly Blue Book (www.kbb.com), Edmonds (www.edmunds.com) or the National Auto Dealers Association (www.nada.com). I like to check the value on all three sites and find an average. If the cost to repair your vehicle is more than the difference in the unrepaired and repaired values, you may consider looking for a new vehicle and selling your current vehicle as-is.LYO silicone rubber oil seals for motorcycle.
Replacing the rear main seal can be an insurmountable job for a weekend mechanic, and can even be a challenge for a seasoned professional. Replacing a Rear Main SealIf you’ve searched around with your mechanic’s mirror and flashlight and have determined you don’t have a valve cover of valley pan leak, you may have a rear main seal leak. The rear main seal is on the rear of the engine and seals the point where the crankshaft extends out of the engine block. Even though the rear main seal is a relatively inexpensive and simple oil seal, it’s in a very difficult place to get to service. To remove the rear main seal, you must remove the transmission from the engine, remove the flywheel from the crank shaft, removed the oil pan and in most motors removed the pistons and crank shaft as well. Unless you want to get really creative and uncomfortable, this would also include removing the motor from the vehicle as well. To re install the pistons and crank shaft in an engine requires a good understanding of how a motor works to make sure the correct timing and torque settings are used. This sort of job should really be left to professionals.LYO silicone rubber oil seals for motorcycle.
Most of the time, you will discover a rear main seal leak by finding oil drips on the ground since you can’t, or at least should be able to see the rear main seal by looking up under your car. The rear main seal is sandwiched vertically between your engine block and oil pan, and is in the engine block just inboard of the flywheel. Many times if it is leaking you will find drips on your back of your oil pan or on the front transmission bell housing. First, but sure to check that the leak isn’t up higher and just dripping down the back of your motor. A leaking valve cover gasket or valley pan gasket can easily be confused for a rear main seal leak if you don’t check for a higher leak point.LYO silicone rubber oil seals for motorcycle.
TC silicone rubber oil seals OEM
TC silicone rubber oil seals OEM.I only stopped going to Desert Nissan because $36 for a regular oil change seems like too much. The leak didnt seem too bad, only a few drops but enough to notice it.But since they have taken good care of me and have yet to rip me off, I am now willing to spend the extra money than go back to a cheaper place that tells me I need unecessary and very expensive work done.
They also told me my the side pan of the transmission is leaking. (no evidence of a leak on the ground) They also told me my radiator hoses are bad, and something else was bad (cant remember what, the paper isnt in front of me)TC silicone rubber oil seals OEM.
I actually checked it today (car had been parked for roughly two hours) I wiped a paper towel on the pavement and saw it was the color of motor oil
I added some Bardahl brand No smoke+Stop Leak directly into the crankcase, and I am going to see if that actually stops the leak. I noticed after adding the super gooey stuff to the engine, the motor sounded smoother and more refined TC silicone rubber oil seals OEM.
If this stop leak doesnt work, how much am I looking at to replace the seal? Not sure if its a front or rear seal, but it is towards the bumper when it hits the ground
So I took my car in for an oil change last week and was told there is oil leaking out of a main seal. (Im assuming the seal is dried out due to the desert climate out here in Las Vegas)
And like I said, the leak doesnt seem to bad, I checked the oil and the oil level didnt appear to be low at all TC silicone rubber oil seals OEM.
This is typical oil change monkey nonsense. Try using Castrol High-Mileage oil in the correct weight for your car.TC silicone rubber oil seals OEM.
Bottom line is that this is not worth fixing. Unless you are leaking a massive amount of oil and plan to keep the car forever, just try the Castrol oil next oil change.
Most Detroit Iron cars from the 60's and 70's would drip a bit from the rear main seal, once they got say 20-40K miles on them.TC silicone rubber oil seals OEM.
They also told me my the side pan of the transmission is leaking. (no evidence of a leak on the ground) They also told me my radiator hoses are bad, and something else was bad (cant remember what, the paper isnt in front of me)TC silicone rubber oil seals OEM.
I actually checked it today (car had been parked for roughly two hours) I wiped a paper towel on the pavement and saw it was the color of motor oil
I added some Bardahl brand No smoke+Stop Leak directly into the crankcase, and I am going to see if that actually stops the leak. I noticed after adding the super gooey stuff to the engine, the motor sounded smoother and more refined TC silicone rubber oil seals OEM.
If this stop leak doesnt work, how much am I looking at to replace the seal? Not sure if its a front or rear seal, but it is towards the bumper when it hits the ground
So I took my car in for an oil change last week and was told there is oil leaking out of a main seal. (Im assuming the seal is dried out due to the desert climate out here in Las Vegas)
And like I said, the leak doesnt seem to bad, I checked the oil and the oil level didnt appear to be low at all TC silicone rubber oil seals OEM.
This is typical oil change monkey nonsense. Try using Castrol High-Mileage oil in the correct weight for your car.TC silicone rubber oil seals OEM.
Bottom line is that this is not worth fixing. Unless you are leaking a massive amount of oil and plan to keep the car forever, just try the Castrol oil next oil change.
Most Detroit Iron cars from the 60's and 70's would drip a bit from the rear main seal, once they got say 20-40K miles on them.TC silicone rubber oil seals OEM.
Nak silicone rubber oil seals OEM
Nak silicone rubber oil seals OEM.I pulled the bellows tube of my intake the other week for giggles and found a lake of oil in my intake. I purchased a $12 air/oil separator and filter that is made for compressed air systems. I inlined it with the stock PCV system and it seems to be doing its job very well. It's catching all sorts of things that would have been entering into the intake manifold. The only downside is that it seems to be filling up rather quickly and will need to be emptied every two or three weeks. Only time will tell how this is going to work, but so far the results are good. ... Routing the catch can back to the oil pan is an option, but it would have to be sealed with a valve in order to not interfere with the operation of the normal PCV system. (genzaroff wrote: “I was thinking about using an electrically opened valve that would open the catchcan and drain it back into the oil pan when the car is off. Then the valve closes when power is detected at the fuel pump or other system that's hot with the key on.”)Nak silicone rubber oil seals OEM.
There are a couple of workarounds, this one being the best way to do it, but there is a little legality problem for those in strict emission states.
So I told the owners, who were baffled as to how a car that had just been serviced could break so fast, that in fact it was likely that the servicing was what had caused the problem! Naturally, the mechanics who did the service and oil change - and who are now looking to get an additional 6,500 Euros for the new motor and labour - are denying that the part is from the engine and saying that we must have "rolled over something." I really do not see what a person could drive over, without anyone in the van noticing anything, that would cause that kind of damage and obviously I am also upset at the responsibility for this being laid at my feet. It just seems too big of a coincidence that this is a known issue with this type of oil filter housing (especially for the 2006 model, apparently), that this occurred after an oil change which is when this exact part is tampered with, and that I found a piece of metal alloy right where we'd parked in a street that otherwise had ZERO litter. (This occurred in Switzerland where the streets are so clean you could eat off them!) Absolutely the only thing we "drove over" was a kerb at the gas station, when the other driver was at the wheel. If a massive van cannot handle driving over a kerb then it shouldn't be on the road as far as I'm concerned. Anyway, I do not believe that this is the reason for the damage. I guess it is also possible that the person who did the previous trip, to Holland from France, could have "rolled over something" (like a chainsaw perhaps) but this is also very unlikely. That driver is a mature man who has driven professionally and neither he nor the passengers reported anything.
The reason the PCV system is connected to the intake is so that the engine vacuum will pull the crankcase fumes and blowby out of the crankcase and burn it off in the motor. Disabling the PCV system will cause these fumes to collect and condense in your motor, combining with your oil and forming acids and other nasty things for your motor.Nak silicone rubber oil seals OEM.
ModMan_70 wrote: From looking in the shop manual, it seems to me that they (Dodge) needed to put in a baffle (barrier) to block large oil droplets. Sounds like the other valve cover (from the G1 SOHC) had a better system for that! Or it was in a better location. This really should have been acknowledged by Dodge. Too much oil in the intake could wreck the catalytic converter, cause gunge build up on valve stems and seats, mess up the O2 sensors, etc.
I wonder if screwing on an adapter pipe, about 1 - 1 1/2" in length, into the valve cover would help. I was thinking if the adapter pipe was preheated and bent with an angle of 30 degrees, or so, and the PCV valve on after, the adapter pipe would act like a collection chamber (note: adapter pipe would protrude upwards at approx 30 degrees out of valve cover). Then oil could drain back into the valve cover. This may eliminate the need for constant oil removal as noted in the "catch" drain system. (brywalker wrote: Problem with that is that oil still leaves the chamber in vapor form. If you get the G1 valve cover, that relocates the PCV to the rear which will pretty much eliminate the pouring. Cheaper and easier solution to a bend in the pipe which probably won't help because it trying to pour back in would be fighting the vacuum. You would need the catch solution due to the vaporized oil.)Nak silicone rubber oil seals OEM.
A compression test is often the most definitive, and can be the only way to diagnose blow-outs between cylinders. If most of your cylinders are reading 180 to 200 psi, and two cylinders are reading 25 psi, you've found your blown gasket.Start by removing the fuel pump relay, and running the engine till it dies -- assuming it will start. If not, unplug the fuel injectors, or disconnect the carburetor fuel line and drain the carburetor fuel bowl. Next remove the spark plugs. Check them as you do. If you see one or two that look suspiciously cleaner or newer than the rest, it's likely because they've been steam-cleaned by coolant going into that cylinder. This is a definite sign of a blown gasket. The same is true if one or two plugs are covered with wet oil, or oil-soaked carbon. Once you have the plugs out, screw the compression tester into the plug holes and check the pressure while an assistant cranks the engine over. Record the readings from all cylinders and compare them. You're looking for even psi readings from all the cylinders, plus or minus about 10 percent.Nak silicone rubber oil seals OEM.
What signs a blown head gasket manifest depends a lot on the engine, where the gasket has blown through and how big the blowout is. If the gasket happened to have blown through between a pair of cylinders with no water jacket between them, and the leak was small, you might not notice much apart from stumbling and misfire. If, on the other hand, the gasket blew through from the combustion chamber to an oil passage, coolant passage or both, you'll end up with leakage from any one of these to any of the others. One classic sign is white, coolant-smelling fog coming from the tailpipe. This is actually steam, the result of coolant entering one or more of the cylinders. You may also get blue or gray smoke, indicating oil in the cylinders. Black smoke that reeks of fuel indicates that one or more of the cylinders is misfiring.
This is a classic sign of a blown head gasket, but can be difficult to recognize if you don't know what you're looking for. Unless you allow the engine to sit for days, coolant in the oil won't simply pool on top of the oil in the oilpan. If that were the case, you'd see water on the dipstick above the oil line when you checked it. Most of the time, though, the water will emulsify into your oil like vinegar in a bottle of Italian salad dressing after you shake it. The tiny bubbles will cause the oil to get lighter in color and go very opaque -- this is the dreaded "chocolate milk" of head gasket failure. If your oil is cleaner because you just changed it, it will be the same color, but be very opaque and hazy. Water-tainted oil also tends to run down the dipstick in odd ways, parting, separating and beading off instead of coating the dipstick smoothly. You may also see and smell steam coming from inside the engine when you remove the oil fill cap.Nak silicone rubber oil seals OEM.
Engines are happiest when everything stays where it belongs: oil in oil passages, water in water jackets and combustion gases in the cylinders. That's the natural order of things. But a blown head gasket can result is an engine that sometimes breathes oil, lubricates itself with coolant and tries to cool itself with hot exhaust gases. Somewhere in this chaos are the exact symptoms you need to confirm the failure; you just need to know where to look.Nak silicone rubber oil seals OEM.
The old mechanic's spot-check for combustion gases in the coolant is to remove the radiator cap -- with the engine cold -- start the engine and smell the gases coming out of the radiator. Sometimes leaks like this won't become apparent until the engine heats up and the metal has expanded, so it may have to idle up to to temperature first. Exhaust gases in the coolant are often immediately visible as fizzy bubbles rising through the coolant with the engine running, and are often recognizable by smell to a trained nose. But if your nose isn't trained, or you don't want to stick your face near churning, boiling water, you can use a "block checker"-type dye tester. These kits use a special dye that turns from blue to yellow or green in the presence of combustion gases. The kit comes with a test cylinder that you fit over the radiator cap opening; if the fluid changes color after exposure to the gases from the radiator, you've got a blown head gasket, cracked head or cracked block.Nak silicone rubber oil seals OEM.
There are a couple of workarounds, this one being the best way to do it, but there is a little legality problem for those in strict emission states.
So I told the owners, who were baffled as to how a car that had just been serviced could break so fast, that in fact it was likely that the servicing was what had caused the problem! Naturally, the mechanics who did the service and oil change - and who are now looking to get an additional 6,500 Euros for the new motor and labour - are denying that the part is from the engine and saying that we must have "rolled over something." I really do not see what a person could drive over, without anyone in the van noticing anything, that would cause that kind of damage and obviously I am also upset at the responsibility for this being laid at my feet. It just seems too big of a coincidence that this is a known issue with this type of oil filter housing (especially for the 2006 model, apparently), that this occurred after an oil change which is when this exact part is tampered with, and that I found a piece of metal alloy right where we'd parked in a street that otherwise had ZERO litter. (This occurred in Switzerland where the streets are so clean you could eat off them!) Absolutely the only thing we "drove over" was a kerb at the gas station, when the other driver was at the wheel. If a massive van cannot handle driving over a kerb then it shouldn't be on the road as far as I'm concerned. Anyway, I do not believe that this is the reason for the damage. I guess it is also possible that the person who did the previous trip, to Holland from France, could have "rolled over something" (like a chainsaw perhaps) but this is also very unlikely. That driver is a mature man who has driven professionally and neither he nor the passengers reported anything.
The reason the PCV system is connected to the intake is so that the engine vacuum will pull the crankcase fumes and blowby out of the crankcase and burn it off in the motor. Disabling the PCV system will cause these fumes to collect and condense in your motor, combining with your oil and forming acids and other nasty things for your motor.Nak silicone rubber oil seals OEM.
ModMan_70 wrote: From looking in the shop manual, it seems to me that they (Dodge) needed to put in a baffle (barrier) to block large oil droplets. Sounds like the other valve cover (from the G1 SOHC) had a better system for that! Or it was in a better location. This really should have been acknowledged by Dodge. Too much oil in the intake could wreck the catalytic converter, cause gunge build up on valve stems and seats, mess up the O2 sensors, etc.
I wonder if screwing on an adapter pipe, about 1 - 1 1/2" in length, into the valve cover would help. I was thinking if the adapter pipe was preheated and bent with an angle of 30 degrees, or so, and the PCV valve on after, the adapter pipe would act like a collection chamber (note: adapter pipe would protrude upwards at approx 30 degrees out of valve cover). Then oil could drain back into the valve cover. This may eliminate the need for constant oil removal as noted in the "catch" drain system. (brywalker wrote: Problem with that is that oil still leaves the chamber in vapor form. If you get the G1 valve cover, that relocates the PCV to the rear which will pretty much eliminate the pouring. Cheaper and easier solution to a bend in the pipe which probably won't help because it trying to pour back in would be fighting the vacuum. You would need the catch solution due to the vaporized oil.)Nak silicone rubber oil seals OEM.
A compression test is often the most definitive, and can be the only way to diagnose blow-outs between cylinders. If most of your cylinders are reading 180 to 200 psi, and two cylinders are reading 25 psi, you've found your blown gasket.Start by removing the fuel pump relay, and running the engine till it dies -- assuming it will start. If not, unplug the fuel injectors, or disconnect the carburetor fuel line and drain the carburetor fuel bowl. Next remove the spark plugs. Check them as you do. If you see one or two that look suspiciously cleaner or newer than the rest, it's likely because they've been steam-cleaned by coolant going into that cylinder. This is a definite sign of a blown gasket. The same is true if one or two plugs are covered with wet oil, or oil-soaked carbon. Once you have the plugs out, screw the compression tester into the plug holes and check the pressure while an assistant cranks the engine over. Record the readings from all cylinders and compare them. You're looking for even psi readings from all the cylinders, plus or minus about 10 percent.Nak silicone rubber oil seals OEM.
What signs a blown head gasket manifest depends a lot on the engine, where the gasket has blown through and how big the blowout is. If the gasket happened to have blown through between a pair of cylinders with no water jacket between them, and the leak was small, you might not notice much apart from stumbling and misfire. If, on the other hand, the gasket blew through from the combustion chamber to an oil passage, coolant passage or both, you'll end up with leakage from any one of these to any of the others. One classic sign is white, coolant-smelling fog coming from the tailpipe. This is actually steam, the result of coolant entering one or more of the cylinders. You may also get blue or gray smoke, indicating oil in the cylinders. Black smoke that reeks of fuel indicates that one or more of the cylinders is misfiring.
This is a classic sign of a blown head gasket, but can be difficult to recognize if you don't know what you're looking for. Unless you allow the engine to sit for days, coolant in the oil won't simply pool on top of the oil in the oilpan. If that were the case, you'd see water on the dipstick above the oil line when you checked it. Most of the time, though, the water will emulsify into your oil like vinegar in a bottle of Italian salad dressing after you shake it. The tiny bubbles will cause the oil to get lighter in color and go very opaque -- this is the dreaded "chocolate milk" of head gasket failure. If your oil is cleaner because you just changed it, it will be the same color, but be very opaque and hazy. Water-tainted oil also tends to run down the dipstick in odd ways, parting, separating and beading off instead of coating the dipstick smoothly. You may also see and smell steam coming from inside the engine when you remove the oil fill cap.Nak silicone rubber oil seals OEM.
Engines are happiest when everything stays where it belongs: oil in oil passages, water in water jackets and combustion gases in the cylinders. That's the natural order of things. But a blown head gasket can result is an engine that sometimes breathes oil, lubricates itself with coolant and tries to cool itself with hot exhaust gases. Somewhere in this chaos are the exact symptoms you need to confirm the failure; you just need to know where to look.Nak silicone rubber oil seals OEM.
The old mechanic's spot-check for combustion gases in the coolant is to remove the radiator cap -- with the engine cold -- start the engine and smell the gases coming out of the radiator. Sometimes leaks like this won't become apparent until the engine heats up and the metal has expanded, so it may have to idle up to to temperature first. Exhaust gases in the coolant are often immediately visible as fizzy bubbles rising through the coolant with the engine running, and are often recognizable by smell to a trained nose. But if your nose isn't trained, or you don't want to stick your face near churning, boiling water, you can use a "block checker"-type dye tester. These kits use a special dye that turns from blue to yellow or green in the presence of combustion gases. The kit comes with a test cylinder that you fit over the radiator cap opening; if the fluid changes color after exposure to the gases from the radiator, you've got a blown head gasket, cracked head or cracked block.Nak silicone rubber oil seals OEM.
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