rubber auto oil seals Suzuki

ust bought a second hand 2007 e90 320i with 60,000ks on the clock. Before purchasing i took the car to bmw to get a pre inspection done.They identified timimng cover gasket , vaccum pump change.The car dealer changed both items but who really knows the truth.rubber auto oil seals Suzuki.
Now- I have had a small oil leak where I can see oil collect on the metal plate that sticks out under the cylinder head, I can also seel oil at the back of the cylinder, when I run a tissue around the back.
I have had the profile gasket replaced, and the problem went away for about a week , but now its back!? – Small collection of oil on the metal plate an oil on tissue when run around the back of the cylinder head.
Also i can hear this abnormal sound sometimes when i stop at traffic lights but its not always there.
I took it back to bmw tech and while test driving there was no noise.rubber auto oil seals Suzuki.
What to do now?
Couple of things to consider.
If your CCV is blocked it creates more pressure and will create oil leakage from profile gasket and vaccum pump.
When you got your profile gasket replaced, was proper torque applied on tighting screws? And if not that can lead to oil leak from profile gasket.
If I would be you, would do followings,
1- Vaccum pump changed (expensive from BMW).
2- Profile gasket changed with correct torque.
If you get the oil leak again, you will require new CCV + all hoses.
This is common problem on 320i.
Also remove the engine cover and inspect properly to find out oil leakage source.
1- Vaccum pump is what you attached in your link. It is not same as CCV.
Signs of leakage: As you mentioned, touch the back of it, and you will get plenty of fresh oil coming out.rubber auto oil seals Suzuki.
Another typical sign is, you get smell of burning oil coming into cabin, especially when you are stationary on traffic signal or on a junction.
To confirm, you can take two approaches.
a) You have to remove the plate which keeps air pollen filter in place. Remove oil cover lid.
Now pull the engine cover up and it will come off.
You should be able to have a good look at vaccum pump from there. (Top view)
b) Second option is to remove engine tray and have a good look from the bottom of car and you will be able to spot the oil leak coming from there.
I am not sure about Australia, but it is about ￡200-250 in UK.
Try a breaker in Australia to get good price and if you struggle, give me a shout. I may be able to source one for you here.
It is not DIY unless you are very competent. The space at the back of engine is not much and very hard to undo bolts (M8 size). It is held by 3 bolts and one at the bottom is difficult one.
The other problem can be, you may drop bolt in that space, which is very narrow, and later you will end up removing the bottom engine plate.
You can use mirror to have a good look, or small camera kit with monitor, if you are very keen to work on it yourself.rubber auto oil seals Suzuki.
As I said, it is not DIY thing, as you may have to tilt the engine from the bottom to approach. Try your local garage if they are competent. On TIS, it is 2.5-3 hours job.
It is completely different thing, as purpose is to separate oil drops from gases going to exhaust and also create some -ve pressure at lower RPMs.
It is very complicated and beyond the scope of this writing.
Here is link showing you CCV and all hoses.
CCV
This is under your exhaust manifold, and you can only inspect it with camera kit and lots of patience.
Or physically remove the exhaust manifold and have a good look.
Signs of wear:
1- In cold weather, you get orange, creamy stuff under your oil cover lid.
2- Also blocked CCV will give you different engine running noise. Only competent/ experience person can tell you.
3- If one of the hose is broke, your engine noise is loud on lower RPM, when pressure changes b/w CCV and hoses.
4- White / bluish smoke from exhaust.rubber auto oil seals Suzuki.
BMW was changing CCV on each E46 car when due for major service (60K).
On E90, they redesigned it, and it can last upto 80-90K depending on your oil service history.
Funny enough, it is not on BMW maintenance schedule for E90. It is only changed if somebody picks it up or knows about it.
To be on safe side, I would personally change it on 80K if my car is being serviced at 20K intervals. or 100K if I follow 10K service intervals.
It is again not DIY. TIS suggests, it is 2 hour job.
CCV itselfis about ￡30-35 but with all hoses, whole kit comes upto ￡110 in UK. DON’T just change CCV only, as blocked hoses may not help. Also two of hoses may break while taking it off.
Looking at your car history, you may not need CCV at this stage.
Forget it at this stage, unless your vaccum pump start leaking again.
I would suggest you to take engine cover off (not the one which hold profile gasket) and inspect properly to find out source of oil leak.rubber auto oil seals Suzuki.

rubber auto oil seals Toyota

If a tyre of a different size or aspect ratio is fitted, this will affect the speedo. To check the effect of the tyres on the speedo, measure the rolling radius of the front tyre and rear tyre. (That’s the distance from the centre of the wheel to the ground with the tyres at normal pressure)rubber auto oil seals Toyota.
Using the MGB as an example:
165 x 14 is the original tyre size, and the speedo is calibrated to that. For a 165 x 14 tyre (or a 185-70 x 14 which is the same overall diameter),rubber auto oil seals  this is about 304 mm. Then work out
original rolling radius (mm) x 100
Rear rolling radius (mm)
This is the percentage error in the speedo.
Other sources of speedo error come from changes in the diff ratio or the speedo drive pinion in the gearbox. The only usual cause of these is if an overdrive has been fitted when the car was originally non overdrive. If undertaking this, check this out by comparing the small 4 digit number (usually around 1000 – 1400) on your speedo with other MGB’s which originally had the donor gearbox. (See list below)rubber auto oil seals Toyota.
This 4 digit no is the number of wheel revolutions per mile that the speedo is calibrated to and is different between overdrive and non-overdrive. (Sorry, it’s bit of info that keeps escaping me.)
I do recall that when an overdrive is retrofitted, the mph speedo reads very close to half of km/h (eg 50mph means 100km/h)rubber auto oil seals Toyota.
Speedo gear ratio changes for overdrive boxes were as follows:
1st ratio: all 3 synchro cars (made 1962 – 1967. Note that shipping & showroom time can mean that the year of manufacture and first registration can differ, so cars registered early 1968 can still be 3 synchro)
2nd ratio: 4 synchro chrome bumper (late 1967 to 1974)
3rd ratio: rubber bumper cars.rubber auto oil seals Toyota.

rubber auto oil seals Volkswagen

The drain for the air intake vent in front of the windscreen needs to be kept clear.  The outlet is at the very bottom on the drivers side, and drains to a tube with a bulb on the end of it protruding into the transmission tunnel from the top.  It’s a mucky job to clean this out, but worth it as when it blocks it’s the first step to rusting out the heater box, a very difficult thing to get at to repair!rubber auto oil seals Volkswagen.
Ensure the baffle plates at the back of the front wheel arches are sealing properly and not letting water past to the cavity behind.  Build-up of water and damp road dirt behind here is what causes the sills to rust, starting from the top of the outer sill where it goes behind the front wing, then working down from there over a period of years.rubber auto oil seals Volkswagen.
The plates come with a rubber strip to seal between them and the front wing.  However, this never seals 100% particularly where it goes over the join in the wing (it’s behind the stainless body moulding on the outside) so it is a good idea to apply a bead of sealer such as CRC Galvseal around here to ensure it’s properly watertight.   Make sure that the sealer goes right up the side and across the top of the baffle, and sealing where the baffle meets the body on the inside isn’t a bad idea either.rubber auto oil seals Volkswagen.
For preemptive maintenance, classic MG’s are fairly basic cars and simple to maintain by today’s standards.  The long term health of the car can be easily looked after on a day-to-day basis by:
ensuring all the maintenance checks and lubrication specified in the manual is done
tracking down water ingress into the bodywork as soon as it becomes apparent.
applying cavity wax to key areas of the bodywork.
MGB
Water ingress:
There are three areas to check in particular:
To do the job properly, it’s best to remove the baffle plate (including the top extension if you can) and clean all the surfaces to be sealed so the sealer gets a good grip and can do its job.rubber auto oil seals Volkswagen.  This is also a good opportunity to clean out the inner wing cavity behind the baffle plate – release the front wing at the bottom by undoing the three screws, pull it out an inch or so and flush the whole area  out with a high pressure hose.
Once it has dried, you could apply a cavity wax through this area to give better protection against damp – though hopefully there will be none by the time you have finished!  The sealer won’t stick to the cavity wax, so mask off the area along where the edge of the baffle plate sits before applying the cavity wax.
Areas which should have cavity wax applied include:
Front inner wing cavity (see above)
Sill cavities – outer and inner (the divider between the two is along the lip where the doors weather seal is fitted)
Inside the doors
Cabin air intake box (after cleaning it out as above)
The underneath of the point of the fins on the rear wings.  Use Dinatrol ML or equivalent here, as the join along the fin is complex and a place where rust frequently starts.
Up behind the dashboard where the front wing is bolted to the bodywork.  (A bit messy to do, remove floor mats first and have something to catch/soak up the run-off!).rubber auto oil seals Volkswagen.
The door has drain holes along the underneath, these should be kept clear.
Cavity wax:
Cavity wax is a product which provides a protective film which stops water getting at the steel underneath.  For owner maintenance, it is usually applied via an aerosol can and comes in several grades.
For inaccessible cavities, use a light viscosity cavity wax with good tracking properties such as Dinitrol ML, and a 360 degree spray on the end of a longish tube (say about 2 feet).  Insert the tube into an access hole (drill one if you need to) as far as you can and gradually withdraw while spraying.
For open areas such as inside the doors, us a more viscous wax such as Dinatrol 77B.  However, you should apply ML in all the corners first so it can track right in to any nooks and crannies such as where the door skin is crimped over the door frame.rubber auto oil seals Volkswagen.

rubber auto oil seals Volvo

A car which has its registration lapsed for more than a year is de-registered by NZTA.  To return it to the road, it has to undergo the same compliance process as a newly imported vehicle, see my page Importing a car into New Zealand.rubber auto oil seals Volvo.
There is however one important difference:  The car will need to meet only those standards which were in force at the time of its first registration in New Zealand, not ones which have been subsequently introduced and not made retrospective. Fortunately, although a car is removed from the current register, its records are generally kept so it is usually fairly easy to establish when it was first registered here.  If this is not available, then other evidence such as a previous licencing label will be necessary.rubber auto oil seals Volvo.
Examples of this difference are
the requirement to have a high stop light, which was introduced in the 1990’s is not retrospective.
Seat belts – for example, inertia reel belts were not required until about 1979 so won’t be required on cars registered here before this, though many owners prefer to retro-fit these anyway.
(Note:  dates from my memory so are approximate!)rubber auto oil seals Volvo.

auto oil seals Audi

If you are thinking of importing a car to NZ, here are some things to be aware of:To be registered in New Zealand, the car will have to undergo a compliance check.  This check covers all the relevant regulations and the condition of the car.   auto oil seals Audi.Of particular relevance is that if a car has not been registered here before (regardless of age) there are different requirements from those which have been registered before but need registering simply because it was allowed to lapse.   The exact requirements can be found on the New Zealand Transport Agency,  but include at the least a high stop lamp.
The compliance checks on the condition of the car are the same as those for a warrant of fitness (or the UK’s MoT).    However (and this is the main point of this page!) the standard of the check is very much higher than the normal warrant of fitness or UK MoT check (both of which are of similar standard).   I suppose there is some logic to this, but it escapes me.auto oil seals Audi.
On my page Getting you car re-registered I have outlined some pointers about how to prepare your car for the compliance check.
The main thing to check carefully before you ship a car to New Zealand is the condition of the body.   The checkers are ruthless about this, and at the first sniff of rust they will demand that any paint be removed from the offending area, usually by sandblasting, (typically this involves sandblasting the entire underneath of the car, or complete panels on the exterior), while previous repairs which they see will have an engineer’s certificate demanded of them.  Getting a certificate can end up being to get the repair re-done as engineers are extremely cautious about signing off something they can’t see the whole lot of.auto oil seals Audi.
In a nutshell, the only old repair you can be confident of passing is one which can’t be seen!   By this I mean that the complete panel was replaced rather than the offending bit removed and a patch welded in – no matter how well it was done.
Some owners have found, to their dismay, bills of several thousand dollars for the resulting repair work on what look to be very nice cars but which had old repairs the testers weren’t happy with.  There have even been odd instances in which people have scrapped the car and bought another one.auto oil seals Audi.
As a result of this, I recommend that if you are thinking of importing your car here then get it very carefully checked out for any rust or old repairs.   If you are moving to NZ and, like me, your car has been a part of the family for a long time and you would like to bring it with you regardless, then check out the options for repair here or before you ship the car.   One advantage of having it repaired here is that the repairer will work with the compliance people to get the work signed off as they go.auto oil seals Audi.
If you have any doubts about aspects of your car’s bodywork, feel welcome to email me photos for comment as to likely treatment.  Such comment is offered on the basis that it is a free service and that no liability rests with me if I interpret the photographs incorrectly – I’ll do the best I can, but it will be a guide only.
Don’t be too put off – disasters are not in the majority!  Many cars go through the compliance check without significant issues.auto oil seals Audi.

auto oil seals Benz

Mechanical items are simply checked by the conventional means. In addition to these usual checks, some particular features of these cars are – compression test, (high compression engine) is around 170 – 175 psi on warm engine and wide open throttle.auto oil seals Benz.
– oil pressure is originally 40psi when properly hot and idling at 7-800RPM. Down to 25psi at idle indicates probably sound, below that is uncertain. (Properly hot – run for 6 miles or so. Do the test drive then check the oil pressure)
– harsh tappet noise indicates worn valve gear. Tappet noise is identified as a tapping sound which doesn’t change its pitch as the engine speed is increased, though obviously it will sound faster.
– piston slap is not uncommon on these engines with moderate mileage due to the short pistons. It is identified as a hollow-ish rattle which is present at idle and reduces substantially and often disappears when the engine speed is increased.auto oil seals Benz.
Gearbox
– cars made 1967 and earlier had no synchromesh on first gear. This first gear was a weak point in these gearboxes and wears out before the rest of the gearbox. As a straight cut gear, this first has a natural whine, however it should be a clean whine not a growly one. If in doubt, get it checked – they are expensive to repair.auto oil seals Benz.
– Reverse in this gearbox is similar, and also has the foible of jumping out of gear if worn badly. Check this by accelerating hard in reverse to about 3000RPM.
– The later gearbox is quite robust, is generally noisy at idle (a hissing noise via the gear lever) and can be difficult to engage reverse. Both these are normal features of this gearbox and indicate nothing wrong. (When it doesn’t go into reverse, put it in first and advance a couple of inches and try again)
If fitted with overdrive (either gearbox), at the end of your 6 mile test run, check that the car still drives properly in reverse. An uncommon but expensive problem is for the overdrive clutch linings to glaze or wear out, resulting in a slipping when trying to reverse. Worse when hot.auto oil seals Benz.
Particular areas to check on an MGB body are:
The sills, which extend under both wings from wheel arch to wheel arch. Particularly check where the wing overlaps. The bottom of the sill, the bit under the car known as the castle rail. It is identified as a rib about 1″ wide running from the front wheelarch to the back of the door where it sweeps up and blends into the rear chassis rail. Check the front of this rib in particular, also the samll triangular bit of vertical panel exposed where at the rear upsweep. Rust in either of these places means major bodywork.auto oil seals Benz.
Check floorpans etc.
Check the steel beadings at the top of the rear wings and where the front wings meet the scuttle (and around the windscreen pillar in a GT). Rust here is not cheap to fix properly.
Check for rust at the top of the rear wheelarch.
Finally, be wary of anywhere where seams usually left exposed (including the aforementioned beadings) have been filled over – this inevitably means a bodge job!auto oil seals Benz.

auto oil seals BMW

If using the original Rover engine computer (MEMS) in a conversion, it may be necessary to address the computer’s immobilser.  auto oil seals BMW.The MEMS security system searches for a coded signal from the alarm ECU, and if it doesn’t get it (either none at all or the wrong one) it immobilises the engine in two ways:  First by  blocking the starter relay, and by shutting off the injectors after a few seconds.    There will still be a spark at the plugs, and you will still have fuel pressure, but the injectors will be inoperative.
It is easy enough to bypass the starter imobiliser in by wiring up the starter relay to be independent of the ECU.    However, it is not so easy to bypass the injector shut-down function as the injectors are run only by the engine computer – which in turn will shut them down if it doesn’t get/recognise the security code it’s looking for within a few seconds of start-up.auto oil seals BMW.
Any Rover alarm ECU could give the signal, but would need programming with the engine ECU so that they know each other.    It’s fairly sophisticated, and not simple to set up, so getting the alarm ECU from the same vehicle that the engine ECU originally came from saves the (considerable) programming hassle.   More detail on the programming is on the MGF general page Security System – explanation, keys and remotes, disarming, reprogramming.auto oil seals BMW.
The MGF has yellow/red coding on the wire which carries the security link between the two computers.   A black/white wire is the immobiliser link to the starter relay.auto oil seals BMW.
To use the security system you may also need the remote from the same vehicle – in theory you will need it but in practice we didn’t in an engine transplant situation, as there were no sensors to reset the security system through removal of key from the ignition, or opening and closing a door or any of the other clever bits of logic that Rover built in.    It seems that without sensors in these places the default mode is to leave the security link enabled unless the remote breaks the link and resets it to wait for a further signal to come active.auto oil seals BMW.