How to auto oil seals
The fork of a motorcycle connects the main frame to the front wheel and axle.
The fork is what allows riders to change direction and also helps in braking
and suspension. The fork itself consists of two tubes. Each tube requires a oil
seal to keep the oil of the interior of the tube from leaking out. Fork auto oil seals should be replaced as soon as
leaking oil is noticed. If the oil seal is left unchanged, the oil could leak
onto the brake pads and ruin your motorcycle or you could run out of oil
completely and ruin your motorcycle. Use these steps to replace your fork auto oil seals.
1．Prepare the
motorcycle for maintenance. mechanical oil
seals.
Loosen the 2 bolts that secure the fork legs to the frame and the caps upon
each leg. Then loosen the brake caliper bolts and the whole front axle of the
bike.
Put the bike in gear and chock the rear wheel.
Raise the front wheel off the ground as far as needed.
Remove the brake calipers, fender, front wheel and any other hanging cables.
2. Disassemble the fork.
Loosen the bolts further and pull downward on the fork while twisting.
Remove the fork cap carefully. Because it is spring loaded, be careful not to
stand in the way of the cap as you remove it.
Take out the spring and let the oil drain into a bucket
Free the damper rod by inserting a tool into the cavity to reach it.
Memorize the assembly of the fork’s springs, washers and spacers for easy
re-installation later.valve oil seals.
3. Remove the old oil seal.
Wedge the dust oil seal from the fork leg.
Find the fork oil seal itself. It is held into place by a clip within a groove.cap oil seals.
Pry the oil seal out carefully.
Flush the area as you go to remove debris within the fork.
Take the tube in 1 hand and the stanchion in the other. Use muscle to pull the
2 apart. You will see the oil seal coming out of hiding as you do this.
4. Prepare the fork for a new oil seal.
Remove all rust and repair imperfections that led to the old oil seal’s
leakage.
Soak a cloth with oil and work on the area where the oil seal rested
5. Install the new oil seal. viton
oil seals.
Rub oil on the inner part of the new oil seal.
Put the oil seal over the stanchion and slide it down into place.
Set the oil seal with a oil seal driver. This will tap the oil seal into place
gently but firmly.
6. Put the fork back together.
Situate the clip and dust oil seal back onto the fork. Place the damping rod
back inside.
Pour new oil into the fork, measuring the height as necessary.
Re-install the spring and screw on the fork cap. Tighten the bolts.
7. Repeat the process on the other fork leg.
Installing PTFE auto oil seals the Right Way
Conventional shaft seals have commonly been made of a flexible polymer (synthetic
rubber) with a tensioning spring that compresses the sealing lip against the
smooth shaft sealing surface. Seals keep oil in; and keep dirt and water out.rubber
auto seals.
The latest seal technology uses PTFE (Teflon?), desirable for its low friction,
self-lubricating surface, and excellent sealing qualities, even in temperature
extremes (-130°C to +200°C). Since it also has a superior
thermoplastic “memory” that returns it to its original shape when heated, the
PTFE seal needs no internal garter spring to keep its lip tensioned against the
shaft circumference. It is also more resistant to chemical degradation from
oils, acids, and oxidizers.Installing PTFE auto oil seals the Right Way.
Tips for Installing PTFE Seals
Do not remove the protective packaging until you are ready to install the seal.
Dirt on the sealing surface can abrade the lip, causing a leak.mechanical
auto seal.
Install PTFE engine auto oil seals dry.
Both the seal and shaft sealing surface must be oil-free, or the seal may leak.
(This is opposite what we have always done when installing synthetic rubber
seals.)
PTFE seals ship with a plastic sleeve to keep the lip round. Do not remove the
sleeve until you are ready to install the seal. Some sleeves can double as an
installation guide; if not, use the installation method recommended by the
manufacturer.valve auto seals. This may require a dedicated installation
cone with a tapered snout that eases the lip onto the shaft, or a thin-walled
plastic guide tube.Installing PTFE auto oil seals the Right Way.
PTFE is durable, but less pliable than previous seal materials. Inspect the
chamfered edge of the shaft for nicks or blemishes that can cut the sealing
lip.
Install the seal squarely. Make sure the lip is perpendicular to the shaft
centerline. car auto seals.If possible, adjust the installation depth
slightly so the lip will ride on a “fresh” area of the shaft sealing surface,
not on a wear band cut by the old seal (see the illustration).Installing PTFE auto oil seals the Right Way.
Remove “distance spacer” . This sleeve
locates the crankshaft cone and provides a replaceable sealing surface for the
crankshaft seal.motorcycle auto oil seals
choice materials.
The Jaguar V-12 crankshaft damper assembly is either an engineering masterpiece
or another example of Jaguar overcomplicating an existing proven design. I
suspect there is a bit of truth in both statements. The assembly works by
having the crankshaft bolt force the damper against a collapsible cone that
transfers the holding friction to the crankshaft nose. (Proper reassembly is
critical). In addition the design uses a “distance spacer” to position the cone
and provide a replaceable sealing surface for the crankshaft seal.
I butchered up an existing screwdriver to use in removing the old oil
seal.motorcycle auto oil seals choice
materials.
There are two indentations at either side of the cover that facilitates removal
of the seal. The easiest method for removal is to simply punch a slot in the
seal at the indentation and pry out the seal.rubber
sealing.
Note: Carefully clean the seal mounting area. Any nicks incurred during the
removal process must be addressed now.
All crank seals for the V-12 are identical. Jaguar initially listed a part
number for the seal only for the early cars. That listing has been
discontinued, and the only seal currently available from Jaguar includes a new
“distance spacer”. It is also not cheap. Even from a third party supplier expect
to pay approx. $70.00 US for seal and spacer. (Jaguar part number JLM
10613).motorcycle auto oil seals choice
materials.
For those who hate to spend money, NAPA (auto
parts chain in the US)
sells just the seal for approx $10.00 US (part number 21098)
Pictured below is the old seal, old distance spacer along with the Jaguar seal
and distance spacer.nok seal. The Jaguar seal has a rubber coating
impregnating the outer band. This affords a better seal between the outer seal
and the crankshaft cover. Interesting, it does not have the compression spring,
which the original seal had and has become the norm for this type of seal.
Note the orientation of the old seal,it was installed with the lip out. This is
the way it was removed, and based on everything I know, was installed backwards
at the factory.
There are two ways to install this seal. Hammer in, or press it in. You can
hammer it in, however close quarters and the possibility of damaging the seal
precludes that idea. My recommendation is to press the seal in. I fabricated a
press that uses the crankshaft bolt as leverage. I purchased a 2 to 1 1/2 inch
galvanized pipe reducer from Home
Depot. Any plumbing store will have this. The 2-inch side is exactly what I
need to address the seal. The 2″ side will be used to press the seal in. The
height of the reducer is critical. Measure 1 7/8 inch from the 2″ side and cut
the pipe at exactly 1 7/8 inches. (Measure from the 2-inch side. Cut from the 1
1/4 inch side.)motorcycle auto oil seals
choice materials.
I used a flat file to get the 2-inch surface perfectly flat. This is not
absolutely necessary, however you might as well make this the right way.viton
seal.
As seen in the photograph below the 2″ side of the pipe union mates exactly
with the NAPA
oil seal.The yellow arrow identifies the Jaguar seal.
The crankshaft bolt will be used to force the modified pipe union against the
new seal thus pressing it into the crankshaft cover.
Inspect the crankshaft and collapsible cone keys. If there are any nicks
incurred during removal of the keys, dress the keys up on a flat file.
In addition, make sure the keys fit the appropriate groves in the cone and
damper.
Prior to installation, Oil the sealing surface of the crankshaft seal.
The NAPA seal
has a standard uncoated metal outer ring with the usual compression spring
around the sealing lip. If you are using the NAPA seal I recommend a thin coating of
non-hardening Permetex around the outer perimeter on the seal. This will mask
any slight imperfections that might occur as the seal is pressed in. If you are
installing the Jaguar seal this step is not necessary due to the existing
rubber coating on the seal ring.motorcycleauto oil seals choice materials.
Position the seal to the crankshaft cover. The seal in unidirectional, it must
be installed with the lip towards the engine.
Make sure the seal is centered and slightly inside the mounting flange.
Position the “Press” over the outer ring of the seal and hand tighten the
crankshaft bolt snug to the press.silicon
seal.
Tighten slowly with a socket until the seal is flush against the crankshaft
cover.
Make sure the new spacer is coated liberally with engine oil before installing.
If installing the NAPA
seal only, clean the distance spacer, oil, reverse and install. By reversing
the spacer the oil seal lip is afforded a new surface to seal against.
The tolerance of the new spacer to the crank is miniscule. If it is not offered
to the crank nose exactly square it will not go on. Do not force it. If necessary
use the crankshaft bolt to move the spacer along the crankshaft. When seated,
the spacer should protrude slightly in relationship to the crank seal.
Clean the crankshaft damper, cone and crank. All surfaces that the collapsible
cone will come in contact
with must be clean and oil free. Install crankshaft key. Offer cone to
crankshaft making sure the crankshaft key lines up with the key slot in the
cone.
Cone should bottom out against distance spacer.viton
seal.
Install cone key. Offer damper to cone and install crankshaft nut.Get the big
socket and breaker bar out. Recommended torque is 150 lbs. I used a 3/4-inch breaker bar, with an
extension and tightened two grunts.Install crank pulley. Install hex nut
assembly. Project complete.This project is within the ability of most owners.
Take your time on this. This is one of those projects that you can do a better
job that the dealer.motorcycle auto oil seals
choice materials.
Oil underneath the oil pan and front cross
member of my 1978 Jaguar XJ-S was the first clue that something was amiss. high
pressure auto oil seals Easy to
use.Locating a leaking crankshaft seal is not for the faint hearted. Crawling
under the V-12 at four thousand RPM will make grown men weep. The trail of oil
from underneath the crankshaft damper was unmistakable. The seal would have to
be replaced.oil sealing.
I recommend removing the radiator support, fans and fan shroud. It’s critical
that you have fairly good access to the front crankshaft area.
In order to remove the crankshaft bolt, the engine must be prevented from
turning. There are a number of ways to accomplish this. Don’t use a screwdriver
to jam the ring gear teeth, you might damage them. My recommendation is to
remove the torque converter inspection plate and use a vice-grip to clamp down
on the flywheel ring gear. Turning the engine will cause exhaust pipe to stop
the rotation of the vise grip.high pressure auto oil seals Easy to use.
Remove crankshaft pulley. The pulley has a hex nut that bolts to the damper.
(See blue arrow 2nd photograph). The hex nut installs with two bolts with
spacers (red arrow, 2nd photograph). This hex nut assembly must be removed to
gain access to the crankshaft bolt.ring
seal.
The crankshaft bolt requires a 34mm
socket. I was unable to find this socket in a 3/4″ drive. I used a 1 5/16 inch
six point 3/4″ drive socket instead.
Even with a breaker bar attached, I had to augment leverage with an extension
to get the crankshaft bolt loose.nok seal.
Use the appropriate puller to withdraw the crankshaft damper.high pressure auto oil seals Easy to use.
The special damper “cone” is now visible on the front of the crankshaft. Remove
the crankshaft cone by pulling straight out.
The damper assembly uses two identical keys. One locates the damper to the
cone. The other locates the cone to the crankshaft. Remove the crankshaft cone
key. Note the keys are identical and are positioned on opposite sides on the
crank / cone assembly. Save these keys. Tap out gently with a small screwdriver
if necessary.viton seal.
At this point I found it easier to work from underneath the car. Use jack
stands or ramps. You will be under there for a while. I also removed the oil
cooler return hose for better accessibility.high pressure auto oil seals Easy to use.
Lower the oil to a level below the bottom of the auto oil seals that is being
replaced.replace the auto oil seals
PROFESSIONAL.
NOTICE:
Thoroughly clean all debris from the area around the oil seal being replaced in
order to keep contamination out of the gearbox when the old seal is removed.rubber
sealing.
2.If the oil seal being replaced has a flinger/v-ring installed outside of the
seal, pry the flinger out using a sharp-bladed screwdriver.
3.Using a punch with a sharp point, place two or more small holes equally
spaced in the face of the seal to be removed. Take care not to damage the shaft
or housing.
4. Insert sheet metal screws in the punched holes, leaving the screw
headssufficiently exposed so they can be pried or grasped with pliers.shaft
seal.
5.Work the seal loose. After removal, be careful to prevent metal or dirt
particles from entering unit.
6.Remove any burrs or sharp edges from the seal bore in the housing, keyway, or
shaft shoulder, as applicable, using an abrasive pad
NOTICE:
Do not use abrasive pad on the shaft’s seal surface.
7.Clean the seat in housing and seal surface of shaft with soft cloth.
8.Cover the keyway, threads or shaft shoulder with
electrical tape. Starting at the shoulder of the shaft’s seal journal, wrap the
tape in a spiral pattern progressing away from the shoulder leaving enough
electrical tape extending outward to allow for easy removal after the seal is
installed.nok seal.
9.Apply a generous amount of grease over the taped shaft.
10.Protect seal lips from damage during handling. Apply grease to the rubber
lip of the new seal. If the seal casing is metal, apply a thin bead of silicone
around the outside diameter of the seal just prior to installation. If the seal
casing is rubber, do not apply sealant to the outside diameter of the seal.
11.Start the seal over the shaft with the seal spring toward the reducer and
apply just enough pressure with a slight turning rotation to position the seal
on the shaft.Verify that no part of the seal lip is rolled inward.replace the auto oil seals PROFESSIONAL.
12.Newer style reducers utilizing a v-ring and flinger , proceed to step 15. auto oil seals being pressed-in flush with
the housing face , proceed to step 13.
13.Using a seal installation tool (customer supplied) made from a square faced
pipe or tube that fits against the oil seal’s face with an outside diameter
larger than the seal’s outside diameter , evenly drive or press the seal until
fully seated. Verify seal casing is not bent and the seal is not misaligned in
the bore.If dual seals are being utilized , press the first seal in to a depth
equal to the seal’s width using a special installation tool similar to the one
described in step 15 with dimension B equaling the seal width. Apply a good
quality NLGI #2 grease over the first seal so when the second seal is installed
the cavity between the seals is approximately 2/3 filled with grease. Press a
second seal over the first so it is flush with the housing face.
14.Wipe any excess sealant from the outside diameter of the seal and remove the
electrical tape from the shaft. Proceed to step 20.
15.auto oil seals being installed on
reducers utilizing a v-ring and flinger must be pressed in past the housing
face using a special installation tool (customer supplied) made from a square
faced pipe or tube .This stepped tool’s small diameter must be smaller than the
oil seal’s outside diameter and fits against the seal’s face and its larger
diameter must be larger than the seal’s outside diameter. The tool’s step
length is specified in Table 1. Evenly drive or press the seal to its proper
depth until the tool’s larger diameter is fully seated against the face of
the housing. Verify seal casing is not bent and the seal is not misaligned in
the bore.
16.Wipe any excess sealant from the outside diameter of the seal bore and
remove the electrical tape from the shaft
17.Install the v-ring onto the flinger .car seal.
18.Using your finger, place a small bead of a good quality NLGI #2 grease on
the oil seal’s surface near the shaft where the v-ring’s lip will ride. Try to
keep excess grease off the seal area outside of where the v-ring contacts the
seal.bearing seal.
19.Press the flinger/v-ring in, flush with the face of the housing.
20.Replace drain plug and fill oil to the proper level.replace the auto oil seals PROFESSIONAL.
Description auto oil seals and Grease Seals Information
auto oil seals and grease seals have a
flexible lip that rubs against a shaft or housing to prevent the leakage or
ingress of fluids and dirt.
For proper installation, the seal lip should point towards the medium being
contained. Some auto oil seals and grease
seals have a spring to help keep the lip in contact with the
shaft.
Oil and grease seals are used to retain or separate lubricants or fluids. These
seals are primarily used for rotary applications only.
auto oil seals and Grease Seals
Information Types
The seal type for oil seals and
grease seals can be auto oil seals or
other types. An oil seal can also called flexible lip, radial lip, or rotary shaft
seal. Common configurations include single lip, double lip, triple lip, and
four or more lips. rubber sealing.
Bearing Isolator
Bearing isolators are dynamic seals designed to protect bearings from outside
contaminants. They are comprised of a rotor (rotating) and stator (stationary)
member. Some bearing isolators are of labyrinth construction while others use
O-rings or other positive seals.ring
seal.
Other types of auto oil seals and grease
seals include:
Metal cased
All rubber or polymer
Internal orientation
External orientation
Axial orientation
Spring-energized
Specifications
auto oil seals and Grease Seals
InformationSealing Orientation
The sealing orientation and direction is important to consider for auto oil seals and grease seals.Description auto oil seals Grease Seals Information.nok seal.
Rod seals, also referred to as shaft seals, are radial seals. The seal is
press-fit into a housing bore with the sealing lip contacting the shaft.
Piston seals are radial seals. The seal is fit onto a shaft with the sealing
lip contacting the housing bore. V-rings are considered external lip seals.
A symmetric seal is symmetrical and works equally well as a rod or a piston
seal.Description auto oil seals Grease
Seals Information.
An axial seal seals axially against a housing or machine component.
Construction Parameters
Important seal construction parameters to consider include metal casings, and
dual lip elements. bearing seal.
Dimensions
Shaft outer diameter or seal inner diameter
Housing bore diameter or seal outer diameter
Axial cross section or thickness
Radial cross section
Service Limits
Maximum operating speed
Maximum operating pressure
Vacuum rating
Operating temperature
Lip Materials
Ethylene acrylic
EDPM
Fluoroelastomer
Fluorosilicone
Nitrile
Nylon or polyamide
Polychloroprene
Polyetheretherkeytone
Polyoxymethylene
Polytetrafluoroethylene
Polyurethane
Urethane
Natural rubber
Sintered bronze
Cast iron
Stainless steel
Felt
Leather
Many seal manufacturers use their own proprietary material. Consult with
manufacturer for proprietary material specifications.
Features
Common features for auto oil seals and
grease seals include spring loaded, integral wiper, and split seal.Description auto oil seals Grease Seals Information.
Seal installation, general industrial
applications .To provide effective sealing, radial shaft seals must be
installed properly. An experienced installer with suitable tools, working in a
clean environment, is recommended to provide proper installation. heat-resistant
rubber auto oil seals Excellent
quality.The shaft counterface surface and housing bore should meet the demands
specified in the sections Shaft requirements and Housing bore requirements.rubber
sealing.
To facilitate seal installation and to achieve initial lubrication, prior to
installation, SKF recommends wiping the shaft and seal with the lubricant that is
going to be retained. While the outside diameter of metal-cased seals can be
lightly lubricated to ease installation, the outside diameter of rubber covered
seals should always be lubricated.shaft
seal.
Seals with an auxiliary, contacting lip can also be filled with grease between
the sealing lip and auxiliary lip to reduce frictional moment. This does not
apply to silicone rubber seals and seals with hydrodynamic features, other than
SKF WAVE lip designs.heat-resistant rubber auto oil seals Excellent quality.
SKF also recommends using a hydraulic press, with suitable tools, to install a
seal in its housing bore. nok seal.Pressure
should be applied as close as possible to the outside diameter of the seal.
Seals that are designed to sit flush with the wall of the housing bore must be
installed perpendicular to the housing bore axis. viton
seal.The outside diameter of the tool should be larger than the housing
bore diameter.heat-resistant rubber auto oil seals Excellent quality.
Sometimes seal cocking can be prevented through use of
special designs; the non-standard“TAY”shaft
seal is a perfect example. The TAY design
features a flange on the outside diameter of the seal. crankshaft auto oil seals Price reduction.This flange
helps to ensure that the seal seats properly against the housing face during
initial installation Because the presence of the flange also helps prevent the
possibility of subsequent misalignment, seal cocking concerns can be
prevented.Seal cocking can also be prevented by the use of a properly designed
or selected installation tool, and the right amount of force.Without the right
tool, it’s easy to damage or distort the seal lip or case. rubber
sealing.
Installation tools are generally made of steel and are
designed to contact
the seal near the O.D. (where the seal is most resistant to deformation).
Pressing at the more vulnerable seal I.D. can distort the case and lead to leak
age in service. The tool shown in Figure 6 is also advanta geous because it is
designed to bottom out on the housing face, thus preventing seal
cocking.crankshaft auto oil seals Price
reduction.
Depending on the specifics of the application, the tool may also be designed
such that it can keep pressing until the seal bottoms out or until the tool
bottoms out against the shaft face
Depending on the application, the seal may be installed with the shaft already
in place, or the shaft may be fitted into the assembly after the seal has been
installed into the housing. Either way, it is necessary to protect the sealing
lip from splines, keyways, burrs on the shaft, and improperly finished
chamfering areas. shaft seal.
Use of a shield and/or lubrication can help. An assembly
cone can be temporarily fitted onto or over the shaft to facilitate avoidance
of potential hazards. If lip inversion(the turning over of the sealing lip due
to friction during installation) is a concern,the cone can be oiled, or it can
be made of a low-friction material such as PTFE.valve
seal. Assembly cones must be routinely inspected to make sure they have no
burrs or scratches.But even proper tools are no guarantee of good
installation.Without the right amount of force, the seal will still not be
installed properly. crankshaft auto oil seals
Price reduction.
f installation is taking place in a factory,this force is
often supplied by a hydraulic or pneumatic press.Use of such automated presses
can eliminate guesswork by providing a constant force with which to push the
seal into its housing.cap seal.
Because this force is closely controlled, the chances of inadvertently damaging
the seal are greatly reduced. Factory installations also tend to be cleaner due
to the ability to more closely control the work environment.crankshaft auto oil seals Price reduction.
In contrast, installations done in the field tend to be both dirtier (due to
reduced environmental control) and less precise (due to forced reliance on less
reliable installation aids).Tools such as those used in factories aren’t as
common in the field. Installation force is often provided solely by
hand-oper-ated arbor presses or soft-faced mallets The results are almost
always less consistent than with automated equipment. And because of these
inconsistencies, the chances of inadvertently damaging the seal are
greater.crankshaft auto oil seals Price
reduction.
In some cases, it may be helpful to apply a thin coat of bore sealant to the
O.D. of the seal. This adhesive coating can help the seal stay in place (and
form a more leak-proof seal) once it’s installed in the housing. Be careful,
however, that any sealant you may use does not contaminate other parts of the
seal, particularly the lip, or the surface of the shaft. Such contamination can
impair or inhibit the functioning of the seal by blocking the proper
development of the lip-shaft interface.
Following installation, it’s a good idea to double-check one last time that the
proper functioning of the seal will not be impinged on by other parts of the
assembly. Such impingement could lead to unplanned (and unwanted) friction,
heat, and
wear, all of which can contribute to premature seal failure.You should also be
cognizant of any treatments (such as painting or cleaning) to which the
assembly in general(and the seal in particular) may be subjected. Unless
proper precautions are taken to shield the seal, post installation treatments
can impair the seal’s functionality and thus hasten its failure. For example,
you should be careful to ensure that a painted assembly does not
remain in the bake oven any longer than necessary to cure the paint; prolonged
heat exposure can be very detrimental to the seal lip material. crankshaft auto oil seals Price reduction.
A new seal should never be run in the same
shaft wear track as an old seal.If grooving of the shaft surface exists from
previous service, three options are available. A spacer can be
placed within the bore (behind the seal) in order to make sure the seal
contacts an ungrooved portion of the shaft.compressor auto oil seals Factory supplys.
Alternatively, a metallic wear sleeve may be fitted over (and, if need be,
adhered to)the damaged shaft to provide a more suitable sealing surface. rubber
sealing.Use of a thin-walled sleeve will normally make it possible to thus
retrofit a damaged shaft surface without changing the seal dimensions or
design. In some cases, it may be necessary to refinish or replace the shaft.
Because a shaft seal should never run without proper lubrication,
both the seal lip and the shaft should be lubricated (typically with the same
oil or grease being sealed) prior to installation of the seal. In addition to
making the installation both easier and less potentially damaging to the seal,
lubrication also helps protect the sealing element during the initial break-in
period.mechanical seal. Continued lubrication minimizes
wear and maximizes service life.shows a double lip seal packed with grease between
the primary and secondary lips. When two seals are installed in tandem, the
entire space between the two seals may be packed with grease. In some cases,
seal suppliers will pre-lube seals upon request.compressor auto oil seals Factory supplys.
As obvious as it may sound, care must be taken to install the seal in the right
direction. If replacing a previously used seal,be sure to note the direction in
which the primary lip of the old seal was facing,then ensure that the primary
lip of the new seal faces the same way. dust
seal.Failure to orient the seal properly relative to the fluid being sealed
will result in instantaneous leakage upon startup.compressor auto oil seals Factory supplys.
But even if it’s facing the right direction,the seal must also be installed at
a right angle (perpendicular) to the centerlines of both the shaft and the
bore.Anything less than a right angle means the seal is angularly misaligned
(cocked). Installing a standard shaft
seal into a housing can be a problem if there is no counterbore to help
align and seat the seal. Even if initial installation is perfect, the absence
of a counterbore makes it easy for the seal to become cocked when the shaft is
slipped into place.. Seal cocking is most common in blind.car seal.
designs that prevent the field assembly team from seeing whether the seal is
properly seated.Seal cocking is problematic for several reasons. For example,
it can contribute to uneven wearing of the sealing lip.
Cocking also increases the chances that any garter spring might become
dislodged from its groove in the lip (a phenomenon known as spring pop out).
Damage to the lip itself and/or to the seal O.D. is also more likely.silicon
seal.
In addition, seal cocking increases the temperature at the interface between
the shaft and the seal lip. High temperature hastens hardening and cracking of
the seal.compressor auto oil seals
Factory supplys.
Having given due consideration to all
aspects of the shaft seal assembly (including the bore, the shaft, and
the design of the seal itself ), car auto oil seals Good quality,what remains is to successfully install the seal you’ve
selected or designed.Simple as that may sound, proper installation is not
always easy. As a matter of fact, it can be quite difficult,which explains why
improper installation is the number one cause of shaft
seal failure! rubber sealing.
Installation Guide.
We hope that it will be helpful as you install shaft seals. Keep in mind that
good installation practices include inspection of the seal and other components
just prior to installation, use of the proper equipment during installation,ring
seal, and protection of the assembly after installation. If you have
questions, please call us. We’ll do whatever it takes to make sure you get the
sealing solutions you need.
Because it is the most important part of the seal, the sealing lip should be
closely inspected to make sure there are no nicks or tears at any point around
its circumference. You should also be certain that the lip is not turned back. nok seal.Either
a torn or turned lip will quickly fail in service.car auto oil seals Good quality.
If the seal design incorporates a garter spring, you should check to be sure
that the spring hasn’t been displaced out of its groove as a result of
handling. The seal O.D.
should also be free of damage such as cuts, dents, or scores. No matter where
it is located, any damage should immediately disqualify a new seal from use.
And because
damage (especially the hard-to-see variety) can result from service, you should
never reinstall a used seal.car auto oil seals Good quality.
Because even the smallest amount of outside contami ation can be detrimental to
a sealing system, new seals
that have passed inspection should still always be wiped clean prior to
installation.viton seal.Beyond the seal itself, the bore (and
housing) should also be carefully examined. Housing edges must be free of burrs
or other imperfections that can easily damage the O.D. of an incoming seal. The
edges of the bore must be burr and nick free.car auto oil seals Good quality.
auto oil seals are an
important part of just about anything mechanical, and they usually need a “specail”
tool to be installed because they are in an awkward spot. Its also
important to have the right tool to prevent them from tearing. cap auto oil seals TO GLOBAL MARKET .With a
simple roll of electrical tape and some care- you can install any seal with out
spending big bucks to buy special tools that fit maybe one or two auto oil seals.
This was one of the few times in my life I had a lightbul
bmoment and still feel pretty proud of it,rubber
sealing, so here it is! My lightbulb moment happened while I was
rebuilding a set of forks for one of my motorcycles. viton
seal. The auto oil seals are fairly
large and no standard seal tool is going to reach the 3+ feet around the fork
tube to be able to press the oil seal in. The “correct” tool for the job
costs between $150 and $300, and works by clamping on to the fork tube.
Follow along, and I’ll show you how to save some money and toolbox space!cap auto oil seals TO GLOBAL MARKET .
This instructable is specifically for a motorcycle fork
leg, shaft
seal,but it could be used for a crank seal in an engine, an oil seal in a
pump, or just about anything.
If I can do things like this with a roll of electric tape,
just think what I could do with a SHOPBOT!!! I’ve got this idea for an
anti-gravity device… No, seriously.cap auto oil seals TO GLOBAL MARKET .
auto oil seals Shaft Requirements
Proper engineering of the components of the assembly is necessary for seal
reliability. Shaft requirements have been determined by the Rubber
Manufacturer’s Association, which includes Federal-Mogul Corporation, through
thousands of hours of testing. The following items should be considered at the
original equipment design stage or whenever an existing application is to be
upgraded.
Shaft Finish — Shaft finish, a prime factor in proper functioning of a lip
seal, should be specified as 10-25 micro inches Ra (0.20-0.60 micrometers Ra)
with no machine lead.
Shaft Lead — Maximum permissible lead angle is 0 ± 0.05°. The most acceptable
method for obtaining this surface characteristic is plunge grinding.
Shaft Diameter — Shaft diameter tolerances are shown below. silicon
seal.Tolerances that are greater than those shown should be used only if
agreed upon between user and supplier.
Shaft Hardness — Radial lip type seals will function satisfactorily on mild
steel, cast iron or malleable iron shafts. Under normal conditions,
however, the section of the shaft contacted by the sealing lip should be
hardened to Rockwell C30 minimum.rubber
sealing. If, however, the shaft may be nicked or damaged during handling or
assembly, a Rockwell C45 minimum is recommended.auto oil seals Shaft Requirements.
Shaft Chamfer — To aid installation and help prevent damage to the seal lip, viton
seal,the leading edge of the shaft should have a chamfer or radius which
must be smooth and free of nicks or rough spots.valve
seal.
Shaft-to-Bore Misalignment (STBM) — The distance the center of rotation is
displaced from the center of the bore. It usually exists to some degree due to
normal machining and assembly tolerances. Misalignment results in uneven wear
and, if excessive, will shorten seal life. To measure, attach a dial indicator
to the shaft and indicate off the seal bore while rotating the shaft.auto oil seals Shaft Requirements.
Dynamic Runout— Twice the distance the center of the shaft is displaced from
the center of rotation. It can result from a bent shaft, lack of shaft balance
or other manufacturing variables. To measure, find the total movement of an
indicator held against the seal area of the slowly rotating shaft.cap seal.
Shaft Material — Steel, stainless steel and certain cast irons all provide good
sealing surfaces if finished properly. Brass or bronze shafts are not
recommended nor are alloys of aluminum, zinc, magnesium and other similar
elements. If plating is considered, it should be hard nonporous chrome plate.
Flaking or plating exposes razor edges which may cut the seal lip.auto oil seals Shaft Requirements.auto oil seals
How do you replace a rear main seal?
For most rear wheel drive vehicles the transmission is removed to replace the
seal. On front wheel drive vehicles, it is usually easiest to remove the engine
to gain access to replacing the seal. Either way, this is an expensive
procedure.auto oil seals.
What else can be done to stop a leaking rear seal other than replacement?
Bar’s Leaks Concentrated Rear Main Seal Repair is one of the only products of its
kind on the market specifically designed to solve rear seal oil leaking
problems. There are special oil additives on the market that are designed to
swell the rubber of the rear seal and cause it to expand, thus sealing off the
leak. You can also try using thicker weight engine oil, like 50 weight. The
thicker oil can fill in the gap between the seal and the crankshaft, valve
seal,and could slow the leak down. replace rear main auto oil seals Efficient .
How does Bar’s Leaks Rear Main Seal Repair work?
This product works in two ways to help solve most any seal type leak.
The seal restorer additive restores seal size, flexibility and elasticity lost
due to engine heat, age and high mileage.car seal.
The seal polymer works by building a polymeric film around the rear main seal
and also filling in any groove worn into the crankshaft by the seal. replace
rear main auto oil seals Efficient .
What are rear main auto oil seals?
The simple answer is:
A seal that fits around the rear of the crankshaft to prevent oil leakage.auto oil seals.
The more in depth answer is:
A rear main seal, also known as a main seal or rear main bearing
oil seals is located between the engine and transmission. The crankshaft (the
internal engine part that the pistons are connected to) sticks out of the rear
of the engine, and the flywheel & transmission bolt to this crankshaft. bearing oil
seals.The engine oil lubricates the crankshaft, pistons and other internal
parts of the engine. The rear main seal is inserted into the back of the block
and fits snuggly around the rear of the crankshaft and keeps the engine oil
from escaping.
What are the symptoms of a rear main seal leak?rear main auto oil seals Excellent quality.
Depending on the severity of the leak the first thing you may notice is the oil
level going down. The next thing that happens is spotting, where you will find
oil spots, located on the driveway or garage.car oil seals.
While looking under the vehicle around the area where the engine and
transmission connect, you will find oil dripping, or a oil residue with dirt
caked on this part of the vehicle. Most noticeably under the oil pan and the
front of the transmission. In some transmissions, it will actually be the oil
leaking out of the front of the transmission. In some manual transmission
vehicles, you may also notice some slipping of the clutch, which can occur with
a leaking rear main oil seal.
What causes the rear seal to leak?
The most common cause of rear seal leaks is age and/or high mileage. The seal
can also leak due to the vehicle being stored for an extended period of time,
or from running the engine low on oil. This causes drying and hardening of the
seal leading to shrinking, cracking and tearing of the rear main seal.
What other factors can contribute to a rear main seal leak?
A few things can cause a rear main seal leak to worsen that
is not the fault of the seal itself. If the oil level is too high (filled over
the full mark) or the PVC (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) system is not
functioning correctly, leaks can occur. The PVC system prevents pressure from
building up inside the engine and if it fails, the pressure will cause the oil
to leak out. It is a good idea to clean or replace the PCV valve regularly to
prevent this problem.dust oil seals.
Do I need to use Bar’s Leaks Rear Main Seal with every oil change?
No, we have found that you can receive good results if you
reuse the product every other oil change.
Dave’s first indication of a possible endplay problem was a
slipping clutch. It was especially noticeable when shifting down while climbing
a hill. Also, Dave noticed an excessive amount of oil on the floor in the
garage. Upon examination it was found that the leak was coming from between the
engine case and the tranny, indicating a probable main auto oil seals problem.
So Dave resignedly removed the engine from the car for the
fourth time. The further he got into it, the more problems he found. The most
disturbing thing was that the metal of the engine casing forward of the
flywheel was worn, in about a 4-inch diameter area around the auto oil seals, and there were little shavings
of metal laying around.
Rob wrote to say — That’s typical when the front main
bearing spins in the case. This is starting to get into “gulp” country –
internal case work is required if the main bearing has spun. They are normally
held in position in the engine case by some kind of pin or bump in the shell of
the bearing (I can’t picture it from memory) and if they spin they can wear out
the bearing carrier, which is part of the case. auto auto oil seals Environmental.auto auto oil seals Environmental.I think it can
be repaired by boring the case and using a “fatter” bearing shell to take up
the space induced by the boring.rubber
sealing.
“Speedy Jim” wrote with a “poor man’s” endplay test –
Remove the flywheel and push in on the bearing. (Prying
with a large screwdriver works well.)shaft
seal.
Push the crank back in from the pulley end.
Repeat. What you’re trying to do is make the crankshaft
move longitudinally through the case.dust
seal.
Look for movement at both/either end of the crankshaft.
If you can see any movement of the crankshaft, the bearing
has spun.
In other words, see if the crankshaft can be push-pulled
long-wise through the case. If you can see/feel more than the tiniest motion
(0.006″– same feel as a normal tappet movement), the end-play is excessive,
usually due to the bearing. auto auto oil seals Environmental.If the bearing has been spun, you can NOT compensate by
shimming more.car seal.
The main bearing takes the “end load” — the push-pull load
on the crankshaft. So if this bearing has “spun” in the engine case, then the
end-play is no longer properly controlled and the crankshaft can move fore-aft.
That’s what causes the main auto oil seals
to get rubbed and damaged. Also, if the bearing has spun, the engine case may
be damaged; if so, internal engine case work will be required to repair it (at
least a partial engine rebuild).
Main auto oil seals Removal
To get to the main oil seal, the flywheel must be removed. Before the flywheel
can be removed, the clutch pressure plate has to be taken off.
Rob wrote – Before replacing the main oil seal, take careful note of how far
the old one is inserted, and the order of the parts which come out, and then
replace in the same order and same depth. I haven’t needed to do this myself,
but I don’t have any worries about it – quite straightforward I think.auto oil seals.
To install the main oil seal, I just use a piece of smooth timber placed flat
across the seal, and tap with a hammer. This should make it easy to see if it’s
going in straight (The wood won’t be parallel to the engine case if it isn’t),
and prevents damage to the back of the seal. A rubber mallet could also be
used, tapping a bit at a time around the rim of the seal — a bit harder to get
it even, but still ‘do-able’.mechanical
seal.
You’ll note when you get the main oil seal that it has a spiral spring inside
it. This has to face the engine. Don’t mix the shims if they come out — put
them in EXACTLY the same way (hopefully they will just stay in there for you).
If you ever have occasion to dismantle the engine case, you should replace the
main oil seal — it’s one of those ‘replace if it’s done some miles and you’re
in there anyway’ jobs.
If you are confident that the main oil seal was replaced when the engine was
rebuilt, just have a really good look at the engine case halves below the seal,
between case and flywheel. If it’s free of oil streaks, the seal should be OK,
and of course it’s not too old if it was replaced when the engine was rebuilt.auto oil seals.
Any suspect oil streaks and I’d be biting the bullet and replacing it. But it
will speed up your job (and SIMLPIFY it right?) if you don’t need to remove the
flywheel.
Dave reported the beginnings of a major problem – While under there I had a
close look at the oil leak. It’s been leaking more than I think it should be
lately; I noticed that most of the leak is coming from the split in the
crankcase just FORWARD of the oil sump. I got under there with a couple of
13-mm wrenches and snugged up the crankcase bolts a bit (I was a little
surprised that I could!).
I backed the car into the garage and hoisted the rear end — and soon discovered
that oil is leaking quite profusely from the seam between the engine and the
transmission, but only when the engine is running. The leak stops shortly after
the engine is turned off. To me all of that says “main oil seal.”auto oil seals.
So Dave dropped his engine one more time, and with the flywheel off (see our
Flywheel Removal Procedure) he found found the main seal in shreds! “It’s no
wonder we had oil all over the driveway!” he said. There were shreds of red
neoprene all around behind (in front of!) the flywheel, and the spring that
goes around inside of the seal was completely out of the seal and badly kinked.
silicon
seal.Dave decided he had found the cause of his oil leak! dust
seal.Dave also found that the oil must have been squirting past the seal,
because the clutch was completely soaked with oil (thus the slipping clutch).
Rob’s experience wasn’t quite so extreme — he said it must have only been
weeping out as the clutch was okay. He changed out the clutch anyway, as he was
experiencing some shudders in the clutch wasn’t sure if the shudders were just
the Bowden Tube or the clutch too.viton
seal.
Dave said that the most disturbing thing he found when he removed the flywheel
was that the metal of the engine casing forward of the flywheel was worn in a
circular pattern about a 4-inch diameter area around the seal, and there were
little shavings of metal laying around. Dave later found that the wear in the
engine case was the result of a spun bearing, which caused excessive end play
and rubbing of the flywheel against the engine case. Main Oil Seal Removal.auto oil seals
Remove the clutch plate and disk .Make
aligning marks on the flywheel and on the engine case so you can install it
exactly in its original position. TC auto oil seals superior quality.This will assure proper balance.
Make a “buddy bar” out of a piece of heavy angle iron about four feet long.
Drill two holes in the angle iron to mate with two adjacent holes for the bolts
that hold the clutch plate to the flywheel. Bolt the “buddy bar” securely to
the flywheel so that it rests on the floor to the left (as you are looking at
the flywheel).
Mark the flywheel and the gland nut with a fine line so that the nut can be
retorqued to precisely the same point. The finer the line, the more accurately
you’ll be able to retorque it.
Note: This won’t work, of course, if you are replacing the gland nut. In that
case, note the length of the “cheater” bar (see below) and the amount of force
(in pounds) that you are applying, and do the math. It is important that the
torque on the gland nut be AT LEAST 254 ft-lbs but not a great deal more.rubber
sealing.
Using a 36mm socket,
3/4″ swing handle, and a length of galvanized pipe (for a “cheater”) remove the
gland nut from the center of the flywheel.
Pull the flywheel off the dowel pins on the crankshaft. If your car is stock,
there will be four dowel pins. Modified engines may have eight.
Inspect the oil seal lip and the contact surfact on the flywheel shoulder. If the lip is worn
or cracked, replace the oil seal.
Note: If the flywheel shoulder contact surface is deeply grooved, you will have to replace
the flywheel in order to obtain a good oil seal.
Pry out the old oil seal, being careful not to scratch or gouge the magnesium
alloy crankcase casting.
Note: Make careful note of how far the old seal is inserted and the order in
which the parts (shims, etc.) come out (if they do) so you can replace them in
the same order and the same depth.
If the outer edge of the crankcase is sharp, chamfer it with a scraper to
prevent damage to the seal during installation.
Clean the oil seal recess to remove dirt, old sealer, and traces of oil. Then
apply a thin film of sealing adhesive.valve
seal.
Note: Others advise to install the seal dry. The important thing is that it fit
tightly into the recess so that it will not turn.
Start the seal into the chamfered recess by hand. Note that it has a spiral
spring inside it. The seal lip must point into the crankcase and the spring
must face the engine. Don’t mix the shims if they came out–put them back in
EXACTLY the way they came out.TC auto oil seals superior quality.
Press the new seal into position. The oil seal must be seated squarely in the
crankcase recess.
Note: VW uses a special tool to press the mail seal in. It is possible to do it
using a smooth piece of wood placed flat across the seal, and then tapping it
in with a hammer. This should make it easy to see if it’s going in straight–
the wood won’t be parallel with the engine case if it isn’t–and it will prevent
damage to the back of the seal. You could also use a rubber mallet, tapping a
bit at a time around the rim of the seal–a bit harder to get it even, but
do-able.
Using engine oil, lubricate the oil seal contact surface
on the flywheel.
If you are reusing the flywheel gland nut, clean the needle (pinion) bearings
inside the nut with solvent. Check to see that the needles are not flattened by
wear. Pack the bearings with 1 gram of multipurpose grease (just enough to coat
all needles lightly–don’t overdo it).
Apply motor oil to the small felt ring near the outside of the gland nut. Wipe
away all excess lubricants.
Inspect the starter gear teeth for wear and damage.
Inspect the dowel holes in the crankshaft and flywheel for wear. See that the
dowels fit tightly.
Install the dowel pins, and then install the flywheel on the crankshaft so that
the reference marks made earlier line up. cap seal.Then
install the gland nut, but do not torque it.
Note: If your engine is prior to # F 0 741 385, VIN 116 796 901, there is a
gasket between the flywheel and the crankshaft. This should be replaced with a
new one. Beginning with the 1300cc models in ’66, the gasket was dropped and an
O-Ring was inserted in a groove in the flywheel hub. This should likewise be
replaced; apply a little silicone sealant to the O-Ring before inserting it.
Put the flywheel on before it cures. If the spring-type lock washer under the
gland nut is deformed, replace it.
With the flywheel in place, the flywheel and shims are touching the bearing on
one end and the lip on the crank is touching the bearing on the other end. It
is important now to check the end-play; that is, the distance the crankshaft
will move forward-to-back. To do this precisely requires expensive gauges; I
will describe the poor man’s method.
Note: The front bearing takes *all* the thrust on the crank, fore and aft. The
bearing should not move in the case(forward-to-back) AT ALL. The most the
crankshaft should move (forward-to-back) through the bearing is 0.006″, which
is a tiny amount.TC auto oil seals
superior quality.
Use two screwdrivers between the flywheel and the case to pull the flywheel
away from the case. Now, do the same thing at the pulley end. As you pull the
pulley away, see how much the flywheel moves in. Do this a few times till you
have a good feel for what is happening. Now, try to estimate the amount of
front-to-back movement of the crankshaft. 0.006″ is the MAXIMUM movement
allowed for a worn out engine. You can barely detect 0.006″ of movement; check
your feeler gauge to get a feel for how much this is.
Note: A good place to check this is at the crankshaft pulley on the rear of the
engine. With the crankshaft pulled towards the rear (Step #21 above), look at
the crankshaft down in front of the pulley with a flashlight. The amount of
end-play will appear as a shiny bright ring on the crankshaft. viton
seal.Hopefully you will find this shiny bright ring very difficult to
detect, meaning that the crankshaft movement forward-to-back is very small
(less than 0.006″).
Now, if the movement looks to be over 0.006″, take the flywheel off. Take a
blunt tool and try to push the bearing into the case. Then, try to push the
crankshaft pulley toward the case. Do this back and forth. See if you can
detect any bearing movement AT ALL. That’s about as scientific as you can do
without measuring gauges and/or taking the case apart.
If you can detect more than the tiniest front-to-back motion of the bearing, it
is likely that the bearing has “spun” in the crankcase. To correct this you
will have to split the crankcase, remove the crankshaft from the engine, and
install an over-sized front bearing.TC auto oil seals superior quality.
Note: The engine will be ruined in very short order if you run it with
excessive end-play. Listen to the Voice of Experience — bite the bullet and
overhaul the engine!. We found an eighth of an inch of endplay, and the rear of
the engine case had a circular groove worn into it from the flywheel rubbing
it. Ours was so bad that the largest oversize bearing would not fit in the
engine case, and we ended up replacing the engine case and the crankshaft. An
expensive lesson — cost us 500 bucks!
If you find that the end-play is not excessive, install the “buddy-bar” on the
flywheel and torque the gland nut to 254 ft-lbs.
auto oil seals.
Note: Again, torque the nut as best you can, always keeping in mind the length
of the cheater bar and the amount of force being applied. With a five-foot
cheater, it is easy to over-torque the nut and break it (Voice of Experience
again!), bearing seal,so be aware of what you are doing. At
least 254 ft-lb,
but not a great deal more. (The mechanic who overhauled our engine torqued the
gland nut to 270 ft-lb.)
Reinstall the clutch disk and pressure plate (see separate procedure).
Lubricate the tip of the transmission’s rear driveshaft with a very light
coating of multipurpose grease and lubricate the splines on both the
transmission’s rear driveshaft and the clutch disk with graphite.Reinstall the
engine in the car.TC auto oil seals
superior quality.
