Main auto oil seals Removal
To get to the main oil seal, the flywheel must be removed. Before the flywheel can be removed, the clutch pressure plate has to be taken off.
Rob wrote – Before replacing the main oil seal, take careful note of how far the old one is inserted, and the order of the parts which come out, and then replace in the same order and same depth. I haven’t needed to do this myself, but I don’t have any worries about it – quite straightforward I think.
auto oil seals. To install the main oil seal, I just use a piece of smooth timber placed flat across the seal, and tap with a hammer. This should make it easy to see if it’s going in straight (The wood won’t be parallel to the engine case if it isn’t), and prevents damage to the back of the seal. A rubber mallet could also be used, tapping a bit at a time around the rim of the seal — a bit harder to get it even, but still ‘do-able’.mechanical seal.
You’ll note when you get the main oil seal that it has a spiral spring inside it. This has to face the engine. Don’t mix the shims if they come out — put them in EXACTLY the same way (hopefully they will just stay in there for you).
If you ever have occasion to dismantle the engine case, you should replace the main oil seal — it’s one of those ‘replace if it’s done some miles and you’re in there anyway’ jobs.
If you are confident that the main oil seal was replaced when the engine was rebuilt, just have a really good look at the engine case halves below the seal, between case and flywheel. If it’s free of oil streaks, the seal should be OK, and of course it’s not too old if it was replaced when the engine was rebuilt.
auto oil seals. Any suspect oil streaks and I’d be biting the bullet and replacing it. But it will speed up your job (and SIMLPIFY it right?) if you don’t need to remove the flywheel.
Dave reported the beginnings of a major problem – While under there I had a close look at the oil leak. It’s been leaking more than I think it should be lately; I noticed that most of the leak is coming from the split in the crankcase just FORWARD of the oil sump. I got under there with a couple of 13-mm wrenches and snugged up the crankcase bolts a bit (I was a little surprised that I could!).
I backed the car into the garage and hoisted the rear end — and soon discovered that oil is leaking quite profusely from the seam between the engine and the transmission, but only when the engine is running. The leak stops shortly after the engine is turned off. To me all of that says “main oil seal.”
auto oil seals. So Dave dropped his engine one more time, and with the flywheel off (see our Flywheel Removal Procedure) he found found the main seal in shreds! “It’s no wonder we had oil all over the driveway!” he said. There were shreds of red neoprene all around behind (in front of!) the flywheel, and the spring that goes around inside of the seal was completely out of the seal and badly kinked. silicon seal.Dave decided he had found the cause of his oil leak! dust seal.Dave also found that the oil must have been squirting past the seal, because the clutch was completely soaked with oil (thus the slipping clutch).
Rob’s experience wasn’t quite so extreme — he said it must have only been weeping out as the clutch was okay. He changed out the clutch anyway, as he was experiencing some shudders in the clutch wasn’t sure if the shudders were just the Bowden Tube or the clutch too.viton seal.
Dave said that the most disturbing thing he found when he removed the flywheel was that the metal of the engine casing forward of the flywheel was worn in a circular pattern about a 4-inch diameter area around the seal, and there were little shavings of metal laying around. Dave later found that the wear in the engine case was the result of a spun bearing, which caused excessive end play and rubbing of the flywheel against the engine case. Main Oil Seal Removal.auto oil seals
To get to the main oil seal, the flywheel must be removed. Before the flywheel can be removed, the clutch pressure plate has to be taken off.
Rob wrote – Before replacing the main oil seal, take careful note of how far the old one is inserted, and the order of the parts which come out, and then replace in the same order and same depth. I haven’t needed to do this myself, but I don’t have any worries about it – quite straightforward I think.
auto oil seals. To install the main oil seal, I just use a piece of smooth timber placed flat across the seal, and tap with a hammer. This should make it easy to see if it’s going in straight (The wood won’t be parallel to the engine case if it isn’t), and prevents damage to the back of the seal. A rubber mallet could also be used, tapping a bit at a time around the rim of the seal — a bit harder to get it even, but still ‘do-able’.mechanical seal.
You’ll note when you get the main oil seal that it has a spiral spring inside it. This has to face the engine. Don’t mix the shims if they come out — put them in EXACTLY the same way (hopefully they will just stay in there for you).
If you ever have occasion to dismantle the engine case, you should replace the main oil seal — it’s one of those ‘replace if it’s done some miles and you’re in there anyway’ jobs.
If you are confident that the main oil seal was replaced when the engine was rebuilt, just have a really good look at the engine case halves below the seal, between case and flywheel. If it’s free of oil streaks, the seal should be OK, and of course it’s not too old if it was replaced when the engine was rebuilt.
auto oil seals. Any suspect oil streaks and I’d be biting the bullet and replacing it. But it will speed up your job (and SIMLPIFY it right?) if you don’t need to remove the flywheel.
Dave reported the beginnings of a major problem – While under there I had a close look at the oil leak. It’s been leaking more than I think it should be lately; I noticed that most of the leak is coming from the split in the crankcase just FORWARD of the oil sump. I got under there with a couple of 13-mm wrenches and snugged up the crankcase bolts a bit (I was a little surprised that I could!).
I backed the car into the garage and hoisted the rear end — and soon discovered that oil is leaking quite profusely from the seam between the engine and the transmission, but only when the engine is running. The leak stops shortly after the engine is turned off. To me all of that says “main oil seal.”
auto oil seals. So Dave dropped his engine one more time, and with the flywheel off (see our Flywheel Removal Procedure) he found found the main seal in shreds! “It’s no wonder we had oil all over the driveway!” he said. There were shreds of red neoprene all around behind (in front of!) the flywheel, and the spring that goes around inside of the seal was completely out of the seal and badly kinked. silicon seal.Dave decided he had found the cause of his oil leak! dust seal.Dave also found that the oil must have been squirting past the seal, because the clutch was completely soaked with oil (thus the slipping clutch).
Rob’s experience wasn’t quite so extreme — he said it must have only been weeping out as the clutch was okay. He changed out the clutch anyway, as he was experiencing some shudders in the clutch wasn’t sure if the shudders were just the Bowden Tube or the clutch too.viton seal.
Dave said that the most disturbing thing he found when he removed the flywheel was that the metal of the engine casing forward of the flywheel was worn in a circular pattern about a 4-inch diameter area around the seal, and there were little shavings of metal laying around. Dave later found that the wear in the engine case was the result of a spun bearing, which caused excessive end play and rubbing of the flywheel against the engine case. Main Oil Seal Removal.auto oil seals
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