If the engine has a steady bar or damper
(See Checking engine dampers) holding it to the body, unbolt one end of the bar
or damper and swing it clear.Support the engine with an adequate jack under the
sump, as nearly as possible exactly between the mountings.ars oil seals Big price cuts.
Protect the sump with a wood block at least 6 in. (150 mm) square and 1 in. (25 mm) thick.
Screw up the jack until the engine just rises. Look at the radiator hoses, exhaust, cables, pipes and linkages to make sure further movement will not strain them. Disconnect anything that seems at risk.mechanical seal.
Raise the engine until the mountings are not bearing any load. The car body rises some distance too.Spread the load on the sump with a broad piece of wood. Unscrew the nuts and bolts. Remove the mounting bracket to free the rubber part of the mounting. Take out the rubber mounting and renew.
Spread the load on the sump with a broad piece of wood.
Unscrew the nuts and bolts.ring seal.
Remove the mounting bracket to free the rubber part of the mounting.Take out the rubber mounting and renew.
You may need to stand on a stool or wooden box to reach the mountings.ars oil seals Big price cuts.
If you need to get under the car, make sure both engine and wheels are safely supported. On any car, disconnect only one mounting at a time so that the engine is never supported by the jack alone.
Undo the nuts and bolts holding the mounting to the engine and body, noting exactly how they and any washers are fitted.
Also note which way round the rubber part is fitted, then remove it and put in the new one.
Refit the nuts and bolts, but do not tighten them fully.
Replace other mountings as necessary in the same way.
Slowly lower the jack and remove it. Reconnect the steady bar and any disconnected engine fittings.
Start the engine and let it idle for a few minutes so that it can settle down into its normal place on the mountings. Tighten the nuts and bolts.
Finally, check the tightness of all the clips holding pipes and hoses to the engine, in case any have pulled loose.ars oil seals Big price cuts.
Protect the sump with a wood block at least 6 in. (150 mm) square and 1 in. (25 mm) thick.
Screw up the jack until the engine just rises. Look at the radiator hoses, exhaust, cables, pipes and linkages to make sure further movement will not strain them. Disconnect anything that seems at risk.mechanical seal.
Raise the engine until the mountings are not bearing any load. The car body rises some distance too.Spread the load on the sump with a broad piece of wood. Unscrew the nuts and bolts. Remove the mounting bracket to free the rubber part of the mounting. Take out the rubber mounting and renew.
Spread the load on the sump with a broad piece of wood.
Unscrew the nuts and bolts.ring seal.
Remove the mounting bracket to free the rubber part of the mounting.Take out the rubber mounting and renew.
You may need to stand on a stool or wooden box to reach the mountings.ars oil seals Big price cuts.
If you need to get under the car, make sure both engine and wheels are safely supported. On any car, disconnect only one mounting at a time so that the engine is never supported by the jack alone.
Undo the nuts and bolts holding the mounting to the engine and body, noting exactly how they and any washers are fitted.
Also note which way round the rubber part is fitted, then remove it and put in the new one.
Refit the nuts and bolts, but do not tighten them fully.
Replace other mountings as necessary in the same way.
Slowly lower the jack and remove it. Reconnect the steady bar and any disconnected engine fittings.
Start the engine and let it idle for a few minutes so that it can settle down into its normal place on the mountings. Tighten the nuts and bolts.
Finally, check the tightness of all the clips holding pipes and hoses to the engine, in case any have pulled loose.ars oil seals Big price cuts.
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