Wednesday, January 7, 2015

auto cylinder rubber oil seals



Replacing a cylinder-head gasket
Remove the cylinder head (See How to remove a cylinder head), carefully peeling off the old gasket from the head or block. Make sure no dirt or carbon falls into the engine.
Replacing gaskets and oil seals

The mating surfaces of the head or block must be perfectly clean, flat and smooth.
Stuff clean rags into the cylinder bores and all water and oil passages and bolt holes to catch scrapings and dirt.
Use a flat paint scraper, or the smooth side of an old hacksaw blade, to remove very carefully all traces of carbon and old gasket from both faces.oil sealing.
After disconnecting the battery, unscrew the fuel-pipe connections. Plug the fuel pipe – an old pencil stub works well. Unscrew the two nuts or bolts holding the fuel pump to the engine. Remove the pump, together with its gaskets and spacers.

After disconnecting the battery, unscrew the fuel-pipe connections.auto cylinder rubber oil seals.
Plug the fuel pipe – an old pencil stub works well.
Unscrew the two nuts or bolts holding the fuel pump to the engine.
Remove the pump, together with its gaskets and spacers.
Take extra care with a light alloy block or head. It is vital to avoid scratching the machined surface.ring seal.
Lift out the rags without dropping dirt into the engine, bores or passages.
Check the faces of the head and block for flatness. Alloy heads in particular can distort and then leak.
Supporting the engine
Supporting the engine

Insert wooden wedges into the engine mountings.auto cylinder rubber oil seals.
The block is unlikely to distort except after severe overheating, but check anyway using a steel ruler or similar high-quality straight-edge.
Place the ruler or straight-edge on edge diagonally across the head and block and look for gaps showing light anywhere between the ruler and block.
Repeat with the ruler laid diagonally between the other two comers.
Raise the engine jack below a wooden spacer to protect the sump.

Raise the engine jack below a wooden spacer to protect the sump.
If you find a gap, measure it by sliding a feeler gauge under the ruler.
If the gap is larger than 0.002 in. (0.05 mm) at any point, have the head or block checked and machined flat by a specialist.
Wipe the head and block absolutely clean with a cloth moistened with petrol.
Stuff clean rags into bores. Scrape off the old gasket cement. Avoid scratching the machined surfaces of the block and head. Check for flatness with a straight-edge laid across diagonally. Then measure gaps with a feeler gauge.auto cylinder rubber oil seals.

Stuff clean rags into bores. Scrape off the old gasket cement. Avoid scratching the machined surfaces of the block and head.
Check for flatness with a straight-edge laid across diagonally. Then measure gaps with a feeler gauge.bearing seal.
Make sure that the new gasket is clean, and confirm which way round it fits. The upper side is usually marked ‘top’, ‘haut’ or ‘oben’.
Set the gasket on the block and make sure that all holes are perfectly aligned before refitting the head (See How to remove a cylinder head).auto cylinder rubber oil seals.

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